Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (2 Viewers)

[REZARF]

I’ve shocked myself but I think these drawers are actually done. I finished up the wiring on the Fuse Block, inverter, water pump and sub amp. Then I build a panel for contolling everything.

The 120v/USB ports are plugged directly into the pure sine wave inverter and controlled by an external switch.

I have a switch perventing the water faucet from getting accidentally bumped on. It’s juat an in-line fail switch.

I added a small 12v battery monitor for the auxiliary system that is again on its own switch. I added one more switch for easy expansion later.

First I cut and shaped a plastic ABS panel to the shape I needed and punched some holes using a hole saw and a dremel.

Test fit the panel for screw locations to mount it. I love how the ABS sheet and the Raptor Liner are a near exact match in color and texture!

Fit all the components to wire it all up.

Not too shabby...

One more glamour shot before I hardware the fridge and loc-tite stuff down for the last time.

 

[REZARF]

Here’s a shot of the faucet, it’s in the best spot I can come up with without adding a TON of complexity to the system. I like it here so I can open the hatch and still access it without opening the truck any further.

 

[civil offroad]

A beer tap for the other side would be trick as well. Nice work.

 

[REZARF]

A beer tap for the other side would be trick as well. Nice work.

Nice idea, I’m dedicating that side to air and a compressor tap

 

[Gavlad]

Awesome work as ever sir

 

[reddog90]

Damn fine work on that drawer system.

 

[gee314]

Drawers look great! Definitely an involved project. Mine took a long time and are not nearly as fancy.

 

[SS100]

Great work! Awesome skills!

 

[trdcorolla]

Nice! How are you going to protect the electrical right beneath it, both, internally and externally?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Just spend some time reading the entire thread! Very inspiring!

 

[REZARF]

Nice! How are you going to protect the electrical right beneath it, both, internally and externally?

I’m gonna try to not spill I’m not too worried about it. I gave it some thought but in the end I’m gonna risk it for the biscuit.

 

[REZARF]

Just spend some time reading the entire thread! Very inspiring!

Thanks guys, this was a monster. Next time I’ll do a platform and be done, but this one should serve me in this 100 and the next. I’m stoked how it came out and appreciate the kind words.

 

[Ozymandias]

I know you've heard it a thousand times by now, but this is an awesome build. I'm definitely going to base my drawer after your build. Great work!

 

[REZARF]

We had our first snow fall... missing the warm weather already!

 

[WreckDiver1321]

Hey REZARF! I PM'd you on Insta, figured I'd bug you here as well.

How has your hundy held up from a drivability perspective? Now that she's weighed down with sliders, bumpers, skids, 35s, drawers, etc. I'm looking heavily at getting a 100 for my next truck, and with a wife, one kid, and another on the way, I think it will fit the bill. I'd do a build VERY similar to yours, probably sticking to 33s (likely 255s), and a few other minor differences. How does she handle on the road with the weight? Does it struggle a lot on the hills with power, especially in the mountains? How about the braking?

Thanks in advance, I'm thinking about how I'd build one and I see tons of them built with steel bumpers, heavy sliders, steel skids, etc. I've learned with my Nissan the value of keeping things light where possible, and I'm tossing around where I could save weight. Planning a build before the fact basically.

 

[REZARF]

Hey REZARF! I PM'd you on Insta, figured I'd bug you here as well.

How has your hundy held up from a drivability perspective? Now that she's weighed down with sliders, bumpers, skids, 35s, drawers, etc. I'm looking heavily at getting a 100 for my next truck, and with a wife, one kid, and another on the way, I think it will fit the bill. I'd do a build VERY similar to yours, probably sticking to 33s (likely 255s), and a few other minor differences. How does she handle on the road with the weight? Does it struggle a lot on the hills with power, especially in the mountains? How about the braking?

Thanks in advance, I'm thinking about how I'd build one and I see tons of them built with steel bumpers, heavy sliders, steel skids, etc. I've learned with my Nissan the value of keeping things light where possible, and I'm tossing around where I could save weight. Planning a build before the fact basically.

Buy a 100, it's a great family car.

If you can afford a 200, it's even better.

My 99 with 340K+ miles on it is still an awesome daily driver. The V8 is a good motor with tons of reliability and the wild thing is that on my 100 EVERYTHNG still works. Everything. 20 years and over 1/3 of a million miles and every gadget and button still works. It's impressive.

I've added 400-500# in steel 100# in a winch and 2nd battery and a couple hundred pounds in the drawer system/fridge/water tank but I still get 13mpg and it pulls up mountain passes at 75-80 with no problem. I used to get up to 18mpg when I was stock. If I build another 100 I will add 305/65-18's as they are the perfect size tire in my opinion for the 100. I've had constant issues with the 35's and will drop back to the 305/295's when these wear out.

The only issue with no armor is you end up without armor If you plan on actually getting out and playing in the 100 then some armor is really a good idea. Sliders at a minimum... if you're cool with beat up bumpers you can trim the stock ones and run them till they tear off which won't take long on any trail worth running.

Handling is up to you. Extended sway bar end links, good shocks and properly rated springs and my 100 drives better than stock. On and off road (I used trail tailor end links, OME shocks and OME heavy and 864 coils). My on road manners are amazing. Plan on replacing your steering rack bushings, TRE's and Upper and lower ball joints to get the steering dialed if you lift it. You won't notice much if you stay stock but if you lift it, all the wear items will show you how far from stock they have actually worn.

 

[WreckDiver1321]

Buy a 100, it's a great family car.

If you can afford a 200, it's even better.

My 99 with 340K+ miles on it is still an awesome daily driver. The V8 is a good motor with tons of reliability and the wild thing is that on my 100 EVERYTHNG still works. Everything. 20 years and over 1/3 of a million miles and every gadget and button still works. It's impressive.

I've added 400-500# in steel 100# in a winch and 2nd battery and a couple hundred pounds in the drawer system/fridge/water tank but I still get 13mpg and it pulls up mountain passes at 75-80 with no problem. I used to get up to 18mpg when I was stock. If I build another 100 I will add 305/65-18's as they are the perfect size tire in my opinion for the 100. I've had constant issues with the 35's and will drop back to the 305/295's when these wear out.

The only issue with no armor is you end up without armor If you plan on actually getting out and playing in the 100 then some armor is really a good idea. Sliders at a minimum... if you're cool with beat up bumpers you can trim the stock ones and run them till they tear off which won't take long on any trail worth running.

Handling is up to you. Extended sway bar end links, good shocks and properly rated springs and my 100 drives better than stock. On and off road (I used trail tailor end links, OME shocks and OME heavy and 864 coils). My on road manners are amazing. Plan on replacing your steering rack bushings, TRE's and Upper and lower ball joints to get the steering dialed if you lift it. You won't notice much if you stay stock but if you lift it, all the wear items will show you how far from stock they have actually worn.

Wow, super detailed, thanks for the response!

So, I'd set up mine with a bias towards overlanding and a nod to real 4x4 scenarios. Truck will see trails like Goose Lake and Independence locally with regularity, as routes like that are my butter zone from a trail standpoint. Will see a lot of dirt backroads and corrugations, like my Nissan has.

I'd do a build very similar to you honestly. OME, 255s, ARB front and rear bumpers, probably Asfir or Dissent alum skids (I haven't used my skids on my Nissan an awful lot), tossing around the idea of LCP rock rails (again, don't beat super hard on my Nissan's sliders). Drawers, heavy battery, winch, etc. I'd do the swaybar end links, truck would get baselined immediately, and a few other details. I generally know where I like to make my compromises.

That kind of performance is awesome, I'm glad to hear it works so well for you. That's honestly one of the biggest reasons I'm looking to move into a Cruiser. It really seems like such a great platform for what I do with my trucks. Perfect for Montana and perfect for long road trips to cool places.

I learned my lessons on my past couple builds, and now I'm in the process of making a build plan for when I pick one up.

Still need to hit the dirt together sometime. I'll have to give you a holler next time I swing through Bozeman, I'm going that way in November to hunt elk with another wheeling buddy.

 

[REZARF]

1/4 mile of cable later and the drawer “system
Is done. From left to right:

• Custom switch panel
• Faucet plumbing
• Faucet pump Shurflo
• Alpine 500w sub amp
• 150w pure sine wave inverter
• Blue Sea power Pole
• Blue Sea Aux fuse block
• Plumping ports

 

[REZARF]

Installed

Tie downs are rock solid and flush mounted.

command center for the electronics and water.

Stove slide out

Thrilled with the fit and finish.

 

[REZARF]

Fridge slide out, even though it’s still accessible with just opening the hatch.

Stove kicks out from under the fridge on its own slide. It extends PAST the hatch to keep the smells and odors down as much as possible. In grizzly country that’s a plus.

Fast setup and tear down. Awesome.