4+ U-Bolt Flip Kit questions

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I have had to fight them a little to reinstall after adding or removing a leaf. After stripping a couple I went down to six states and had them make me some for other reinstalls. My u-bolts were originally like you would expect- yours look way too narrow.

One additional note, the shock mount is the same size as 60 series (40 series?) and if you are installing stuff for a 62 there will be slop. Kurt has (OME) shock bushing replacements that will use the smaller diameter mount. Can't remember the sizes at the moment.
 
The front and the rear ubolts are different widths (distance between the two threaded sections). You probably got front ubolts for the rear flip.
 
Moby said:
The front and the rear ubolts are different widths (distance between the two threaded sections). You probably got front ubolts for the rear flip.
Click to expand...

I got the front and rear flip kits and not one of them fits. I just talked to steve at Man-a-Fre and he is going to send me some new bolts. He had me measure the inside width and there was a slight difference. But when I found some of my old factory u-bolts there was almost no difference between them. I am wondering if I need to grind out the channel a little or what.

Does anyone know if the 40/55 kits have wider u-bolts? I am just concerned that I am going to get these new bolts and run into the same issue.
 
I thought the springs on the 40 series share the same wide with 60 series .. so they made U bolt for the flip kit with diferent wide ?
 
surfpig said:
WEll that would suck...

:frown:

Call 'em and ask for STeve (I think he's on this board...). I had to spread mine slightly to get the bolts in the holes, but everything else fit fine...
Click to expand...

Steve-O said:
:doh: New u-bolts are on the way no charge. Someday, someone, somewhere will heart us...
Click to expand...

Yeah, that guy...

:cool:
 
Moby said:
The front and the rear ubolts are different widths (distance between the two threaded sections). You probably got front ubolts for the rear flip.
Click to expand...

OK, you got me thinking. Thinking that I had not opened both boxes. Looks you were kind of right.

Here is what I found. It appears that I have all rear u-bolts. The bolts fit great into the rear plates, but are a mile off of fitting into the holes for the front plates. So I called Steve back and told him what I found. He is now sending me 4 u-
bolts for the front. I should have them either the end of this week, or the beginning of next week.

I will be Happy when this is all over and I have better ground clearance!
 
Gunnar, you gotta always open all the boxes and throw away the instructions or it's just not the guy way to do things. Steve will make it right for you.


Dynosoar
 
The ubolts are noticeably different widths front and rear, maybe 1/2". And yeah, the ubolts aren't a perfect fit. In the rear I always have to kind of work them in (I've had my rear springs on and off at least 4 times and will be doing it again to pull a leaf either this weekend or next). In the front I had to grind one of the weld seams down just a bit.
 
U bolt flip kit saga continues

I bought one of these kits years ago and got the wrong U bolts. Don't these guys ever learn? One thing I noticed that requires some attention, they plate that goes under the spring with the shock mount on it WILL BEND. Those cute grooves cut into it for the U bolt will allow it to fold under just a bit over the years. I had to beat them flat and weld a 3/8" plate on it. I suggest this before you put them on.
 
ooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh crap............................... :doh:


I bought mine a couple o' years ago and never checked them.............they're up in the rafters with all my other(gonna put on soon) Cruiser parts..


was gonna put 'em in this year............................


I guess when I get home Saturday I'll climb up and check 'em..


:beer:
 
I had this kit on my 60. I had the rear square u-bolts fail at the 90 degree bends during a Rubicon run a fews years back. This was a mess.

I decided that the top flip kit plate should be welded to the axle housing. On inspection of the failure, it was evident that the top plate of the flip kit had been shifting side to side as the axle articulated. The lower plate was fixed, and did not move. This caused the u-bolts to flex at the bend, and led to the failure.

I had checked the torque on those bolts prior to the trip. I do not think that any amount of torque will keep the top plate from shifting under extreme use.

Weld the plate and be safe! Other than that, it is a great mod, and a nicely built product.
 
slo60 said:
I had this kit on my 60. I had the rear square u-bolts fail at the 90 degree bends during a Rubicon run a fews years back. This was a mess.

I decided that the top flip kit plate should be welded to the axle housing. On inspection of the failure, it was evident that the top plate of the flip kit had been shifting side to side as the axle articulated. The lower plate was fixed, and did not move. This caused the u-bolts to flex at the bend, and led to the failure.

I had checked the torque on those bolts prior to the trip. I do not think that any amount of torque will keep the top plate from shifting under extreme use.

Weld the plate and be safe! Other than that, it is a great mod, and a nicely built product.
Click to expand...

Kind of funny that you mention this. I told Steve at Man-a-fre that I was going to weld them on and he was shocked. I was shocked that it is not something they recommend.

Dave-T, When something this simple costs this much money, the parts had better fit. I don't bend parts of the suspension to make them fit. Like Slo60 implied above, when you bend these parts you are weakening them. I would like to have faith that when I get into twisty's that the bolts will hold together.

2badfj's will be seeing me as soon as the right parts arrive for the welding to be done.
 
Hey DT, glad you're making progress but I'll differ on the need for welding. Mine have been flawless since the initial install. I won't discourage you from welding but saying it's not needed IMHO.
 
red cruiser said:
Hey DT, glad you're making progress but I'll differ on the need for welding. Mine have been flawless since the initial install. I won't discourage you from welding but saying it's not needed IMHO.
Click to expand...

I guess it all depends on wheeling style, and how you use your rig. It would be good to get some feedback from the guys using this kit.

Red Cruiser, I wouldn't immediately dismiss welding the plates. I used my 60 pretty hard, as others on this board would attest, but I was anal about the upkeep, and maintenance. The failure that I experienced had nothing to do with improper installation, or lack of upkeep. I would encourage you to take a look at the plates where they sit on top of the axle. Is there any evidence of movement? When my plates were shifting, it left shiny worn spots about 1/8" wide on each side of the plate. I realized that that plate was shifting back and forth by about 1/4", and this was enough to stress the corners of the u-bolts to the point of failure.

Unfortunately this was not discovered until I reached Buck Island. The failure tore out my rear hard brake lines, and left me with a fun trail repair. It got me to thinking about what would have happened if it let loose on the way home at 65mph. Thankfully that didn't happen.

I asked Man-a-fre about this, and they discouraged welding the plate to the axle:confused: My question is "What does it hurt?" It's extra insurance.

I also had an issue with the lower plates bending at the relief for the u-bolt.

:cheers:
 
I don't know if I would weld it up. Not that you will hurt anything, but it makes it permanent. I think I would weld in a centering post(or two, to lock it in place) like is on the spring pack. Either way don't forget to poast pics when you are done.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
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