4 speed hard to get out of first gear ?????

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Here's some pics of my transmissions that might help someone more savvy than I to diagnose this problem.

Here are the shift levers for both the H42 and H55. The H55 has the circular teflon cap. The H42 has the machined flats on the sides.

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Notice the bright wear mark on the H42's lever?

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Now here are a couple of shots down into each transmission.

The H55 has a cup to capture the end of the shift lever.

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The H42 does not. You can see the three forks that form the 'H' shift pattern and the side spring that blocks reverse. (it appears to be shifted into 3rd) Notice the heavy wear from the shift lever, presumably caused by a worn out blue shifter bushing allowing the shifter too far into the transmission. Could this wear pattern create enough of a ridge to impede shifting?

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Does anyone see a smoking gun? I think this is likely a cover plate/shifter issue rather than a major gear problem.

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Here's a picture with the H42 in 1st. Notice how far the reverse spring protrudes into the 1-2 slot?

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The left hand side rotation pin is so loose you can watch it wiggle when shifting. Perhaps it's a combination of loose and worn pins, shifter bushing, shifter, and shift forks.

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I was able to get this H42 to stick in 1st nearly every time. Plus, if I put pressure on the shift lever towards the right, it would clear every time.

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Thanks for you pictures! I think I have found my problem. Did the bottom half of mine break off? Or where some like that? Anybody got a shifter??

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Broke off or worn clean!? But the better question is, where is the rest of it? Id drain that tranny asap. What goes in must come out (hopefully without bits of gears in the process!)
 
Wondering if I can weld it up and then grind it down to the correct size? I'm fairly good at welding. Anyone have the correct dimensions for a stock shifter end? Or a whole shifter for me for that matter?
 
I'm starting to have similar issues with my shifter. I pulled it today and the bushing looks good. Do I need to just replace the shifter?




 
The shift cane nose looks fine. You can't tell anything about your second picture inside because there isn't enough light.
 
There's enough light to see that the rotation pins are nearly gone. I don't know if those can be replaced or if you have to change the whole cover. There should be lots of removed 4 speeds out there to get a used replacement.
 
SOR makes a bolt in replacement pin kit.

The shifter seat looks deformed at the 9 o'clock position. A new shifter seat makes a big difference.

Fix the pins and new seat and plastic tip, and it's likely good to go.
 
Would that cause the excessive play in my shifter and trouble finding gears?

As far as the plastic tip goes, I thought that was only for the H55s?
 
I ordered a new seat and shift pin repair kit from SOR. The seat is black. I thought it was supposed to be blue?
 
I have a fj60 that does not shift into 2nd its like it gets stuck. would this be the same problem? do i need to replace the shifter as well?
 
That seems to be the primary cause of shifter problems in our vehicles. I don't know of anyone with synchronizer issues, but even that wouldn't "prevent" you from getting in that gear.
 
Hey guys so after reading this thread I pulled out the shifter. After inspection I noticed it looks the same as reeevesc spare shifter!
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Now I looked inside the the trans and this is what it looks like inside! Is it the rollers that are bad as to why it won't shift into second? Tell me what you think !
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So my question is do I need too replace the top end of the trans?
Or do I have a more severe problem like a synchro gear?
 
The slot for the 1-2 gate (the middle one) is misaligned with the slots for 3-4 and R. Pry it back in line and see if it works better. If it keeps getting out of line, there may be something wrong with the detent balls/springs that hole it centered.
 
@Pin-head, thank you for reply
Can I re align it through the top? Or do I need to remove the top proration of the trans?
 

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