Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (21 Viewers)

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как вы установили кронштейн?
жесткая металлическая пластина вместо кронштейна (натяжителя) генератора и ролик натяжения ремня убран, завтра сделаю фото
 
Getting closer!

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has anyone ever seen this below ?

this is a 1997 PRADO 3RZ-FE Japan spec. Land Cruiser

does anyone have any knowledge to share on this most intriguing topic ?

note the original OEM original Pistons ,,,

this
3RZ-FE is assembled in JAPAN with all Japan parts , NOT the USA with a mix of Japan and USA parts , so it is possible there Forged ?


matt

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White 1991 3FE 325,000 miles on it, complete rebuilt engine at 310k, new radiator, new lines and hoses, new entire break system (rotors, lines, master cyl, booster), new steering box and pump, knuckles serviced, transfer case seal redone, new AC, new dash, new JDM headlights, blinkers and gill (not in the picture), sits on 17" Fifteen52s grey peak with 265/70 KO2 rubbers, in process of replacing transmission (looking for one now)...
 
1991 check in

1991 bone stock 118k miles. Birfs done at 95k. Replacement radiator not OEM, at 100k then again at 101 k. I will go with OEM next time. No rust. Oh yeah, igniter replaced at 110k. New starter also . And the infamous relay fix. Need ds rear window fixed, glued to the top and non-operational.

Location: Santa Barbara, C.A.
What new 91 FE owner. What is this relay fix you speak of, the guy that I purchased FJ80 from told me once engine get hot it will die and I need to swap out solenoid. I wonder if he meant a relay?
 
What new 91 FE owner. What is this relay fix you speak of, the guy that I purchased FJ80 from told me once engine get hot it will die and I need to swap out solenoid. I wonder if he meant a relay?
Yes, the EFI relay. The wiring for the EFI relay from factory is inadequate combine with the close proximity to the exhaust manifold, as a result, the relay gets hot and render itself non operational. The metal style factory relay is also prone to get hot. Replace with newer OE style plastic relay will prolong its life, but the better solution is to relocate the relay away from the heat. Also putting a heatshield around the relay box also help with heat insulation. I have done all 3 mentioned above and been solid since i made the modification.
 
@dannyvp ,

hi Danny .....


Please share you and your son's 1992 FJ80 Engine bay Relay melt-down & that yellow cage location in the junction box , and how you crafty-like moved it to a un-occupied location so the folks here in
3F-E check in can better grasp what you and i dove deeper then deep into ,,,

all the initial symptoms and red-flag troubles that led you to correctly pin-point what you shoed me would be a solid starting point .......

pics of the final remedy and repair details , photos tell a story and you showed me a book on this ,,,,,:D


thanks brother !
matt

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Okay she fired up!! Having issues with the oil pressure spiking, installed new sensor, and replaced some cracked wiring. Still happens. I ordered a set of AutoMeter gauges coolant/oil pressure/trans temp. I’m super pump to almost have the LC back on the road.

Next is split the TC and reseal, new brake lines, rebuild front axle, and body bushings.

IMG_5227.jpeg
 
Okay she fired up!! Having issues with the oil pressure spiking, installed new sensor, and replaced some cracked wiring. Still happens. I ordered a set of AutoMeter gauges coolant/oil pressure/trans temp. I’m super pump to almost have the LC back on the road.

Next is split the TC and reseal, new brake lines, rebuild front axle, and body bushings.

View attachment 3849657


your mechanical oil pressure gauge in your cluster meter POD will only spike like you describe , if the Yellow wire w/ black tracer stripe is shorted to NEG- Ground some how at the end of the line at the mechanical BELL sender , or along the direct home-run to the white multi-pin POD connector itself ,,,

you MUST stop this from occurring in any way you can , prior to turning your IGN. KEY to the ON position and or starting / cranking the engine , even for a only a few metric seconds ,,,,,,


by finding a direct path to NEG-ground and pegging the cluster gauge needle to H like you make clear , you Will burn up that oil gauge in the cluster meter pod litterly in much less then 29 seconds , if you were to allow it to keep going , and or were not aware this was going on for example ?


the Blue Printed circuit board becomes the next Victim , after oil gauge fries , and that creates a very unique but TOYOTA often scenario where that NEG- ground short then evenly gets split up between the other 3 pod gauges , and they all get fried in very short order one after another .......

this has happened to me on more then one occasion , both on my personal Land Cruisers and clients ones as well .....


as far as the Cluster Meter 's main B+ fuse blowing in my experience ? notta ..........

hope you get this in time to save your Pod and its OEM 4 stand alone gauges .....


matt

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flashing-oil-pressure-light.gif
 
your mechanical oil pressure gauge in your cluster meter POD will only spike like you describe , if the Yellow wire w/ black tracer stripe is shorted to NEG- Ground some how at the end of the line at the mechanical BELL sender , or along the direct home-run to the white multi-pin POD connector itself ,,,

you MUST stop this from occurring in any way you can , prior to turning your IGN. KEY to the ON position and or starting / cranking the engine , even for a only a few metric seconds ,,,,,,


by finding a direct path to NEG-ground and pegging the cluster gauge needle to H like you make clear , you Will burn up that oil gauge in the cluster meter pod litterly in much less then 29 seconds , if you were to allow it to keep going , and or were not aware this was going on for example ?


the Blue Printed circuit board becomes the next Victim , after oil gauge fries , and that creates a very unique but TOYOTA often scenario where that NEG- ground short then evenly gets split up between the other 3 pod gauges , and they all get fried in very short order one after another .......

this has happened to me on more then one occasion , both on my personal Land Cruisers and clients ones as well .....


as far as the Cluster Meter 's main B+ fuse blowing in my experience ? notta ..........

hope you get this in time to save your Pod and its OEM 4 stand alone gauges .....


matt

Crap. Well then it’s done for. Kept turning it to accessory/on numerous times, for several minutes trying to diagnose…. The yellow wire’s insulation was super brittle and cracked in several areas and made contact with the black stranded wire in several locations. I removed the damaged wire back to the first Y, and replaced with new wire. The needle kept spiking to above the H on the cluster. The other gauges seemed to be fine, but my concentration was on the oil pressure. What was your fix after you fixed the wire or the issue? New dash cluster? New boards?
flashing-oil-pressure-light.gif
 
GHOST came with a silly and sad aftermarket mechanical oil gauge stuffed into a HVAC register via a plastic capillary tube ..

i had no reason to suspect the scenario of certain DOOM that followed , i outline above as a worst case

i bought a oem Toyota updated double Tabs OIL sender Bell type ...

i saw the old yellow wire w/ black tracer stripe taped off so i crimped on a new updated OEM YAZAKI positive grip detent locking ball terminal , and ran the now needed 2nd stand alone white wire w/ black tracer stripe to feed / attach to the new and sparkly TOYOTA across the board global update to all mechanical oil bell senders Pre - 1FZ-FE / 1993 of the male spot welded spade terminal with that all important tiny little hole near the end .....

take a SOLID up-close and personal visual lookie see-see note ALL OEM TOYOTA Mechanical Oil Bell Sending Units with the little round copper button connector 1992 - older circa era ....

that copper button round little guy has a even smaller round , notable depression feature stamped into it , this has been day one 1962-1992 design tech. by OEM YAZAKI Japan the OEM parts maker to physically retain a very unique form of what we all call a female spade connector .....

this Special Positive Grip Detent Ball Locking Terminal YAZAKI Japan has a Global Patent on has the ability-powers to literally hold on to the male spade terminal on the solenoid ( same as the new added male grounding tab on all oil senders ) where it is intended to be and do what it was designed to do best when it comes to all 3F-E and older OEM Genuine
NipponDenso Starters as you lift it off your desk via only the 16ga OEM YAZAKI Yellow wire w/ black tracer stripe that has been correctly by the FSM SST crimped onto it ......

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the rocket science TECH here is the real f'ing shpeal ....🚀

https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/shpeal

i will continue to answer your full question about how far into this topic of the shorted to ground yellow wire / w black tracer stripe i had to dive into GHOST , and the final correction remedy and parts involved to return her to factory original good working order cluster meter gauge and beyond after i post the below on-topic tech. video i posted for you to help get your trucks factory oil gauge in the cluster meter up and working as it should too ....
i will share my thoughts on the AutoMeter gauges you ordered as well ...... and how to incorporate both the oem Toyota cluster meter gauge set up and your new Autometer oil pressure gauge in-tandem as stand alone independently working read-outs driver information devices , by the FSM correct ....
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GHOST came with a silly and sad aftermarket mechanical oil gauge stuffed into a HVAC register via a plastic capillary tube ..

i had no reason to suspect the scenario of certain DOOM that followed , i outline above as a worst case

i bought a oem Toyota updated double Tabs OIL sender Bell type ...

i saw the old yellow wire w/ black tracer stripe taped off so i crimped on a new updated OEM YAZAKI positive grip detent locking ball terminal , and ran the now needed 2nd stand alone white wire w/ black tracer stripe to feed / attach to the new and sparkly TOYOTA across the board global update to all mechanical oil bell senders Pre - 1FZ-FE / 1993 of the male spot welded spade terminal with that all important tiny little hole near the end .....

take a SOLID up-close and personal visual lookie see-see note ALL OEM TOYOTA Mechanical Oil Bell Sending Units with the little round copper button connector 1992 - older circa era ....

that copper button round little guy has a even smaller round , notable depression feature stamped into it , this has been day one 1962-1992 design tech. by OEM YAZAKI Japan the OEM parts maker to physically retain a very unique form of what we all call a female spade connector .....

this Special Positive Grip Detent Ball Locking Terminal YAZAKI has a PATENT on has the
Thanks for the information. I do have the one with the bell. Early 1990 3FE. I’m thinking new dash cluster. They aren’t too expensive. Probably an easyish swap. Going to install a mechanical gauge to make sure my pressure is good, along with coolant temp, and trans temp. I don’t trust these 35year old gauges.

I would like to have a functioning dash cluster though.
 
ill cover the tandem topic i discuss above for you , below ....

this is 1 part of how to correctly and safely achieve that ...





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View attachment 3850701

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I'm all ears on part 2! Thanks Matt!
 

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