How's this coming along? Does it require a new intake, and/or exhaust headers?
- no new intake
- no new exhaust manifolds / or the collector / Y pipe ,
- removing your valve cover is a must-do , i wanted to see the top end valve train anyway so i can see if age and time had left there mark , sludge and stuff , NO WAY to remove the air rail with out the cover off period , i also pulled the Throttle body and IAC valve off too , this made logic to me clearly , come to find out a 3F-E throttle body gasket is NLA / Disc. ?
- but IAC valve gasket is on many toyota's so its eazy-peezy to have , i am on the fence to install a AIR-RAID Throttle Body spacer or not here on GHOST ?
- the factory Titanium Air injection port delete plugs installed nicely , and there precision flat bottom seats did there job well , NO sealer or teflon tape here.... NO !
- i run the factory air box set-up with the top-tier oem filter too , it Technically is classified under the CYCLONE option , but i need to do more homework on that TOYOTA OEM Microfiche term and how it can or could relate to a 3F-E ?
so it should make fundamental sense , since the exhaust is freed up a but , yet DOES have a 6-cylinder correctly tuned muffler back pressure i had verified by the folks here locally set up to correct the KILLER-exhaust death detail below ...
- i AM leaving both O2 sensors in place as well as the cat. converter , the PO recently had a high end kustom exhaust shop hand-kraft a all stainless steel system , factory manifolds back , including some sort or HIGH-FLOW performance new Cat , i short-pinned the ECU and ZERO TCCS-ECU CEL or any codes recent or current , so leaving that well alone makes sense to me now , no reason to go there , if you follow me here .....?
- one RED FLAG ill share , the PO i guess was some sort of crusader , and spec'd the exhaust shop to do this below , its super Dangerous as sh#T to do this , i DO get mild exhaust odor in the cab of the truck , the rear hatch weather seal is torn most likely cause of that , but as a simple common sense rule , unless you want to join the WALKING DEAD , never do this .....
- the tip needs to be located and positioned so the outward flow is simply swept away , this so called off-road detail , causes a swirl effect , like rotation under the truck ,,,,,,
- i will be having a simple stainless extension made and routed exactly as TOYOTA designed it to go and be , with a added niche late modle toyota feature , of a 45' degree angle at the very end , and enlarging the last say 5" inches , this will allow passing air from both under the chassis , and more over drivers side are passing by to sweep at away at the same time . the enlarging of the tip slightly gives the end of the line a mild sporty tone , and is strictly a Audible Bling thing , also cosmetically pleasing too . ALWAYS square cut ends of tail pipes , NEVER miter cut like this either , the miter angle cut will rust a-lot faster and looks like some GM detroit ghetto detail too ...
- i have the made in JAPAN TOYOTA Genuine Parts Mitsubishi Bando pretty Yellow striped cogged 17mm correct shorter P/S drive belt dial in , and this here below too
- the whole EGR delete proved to be the biggest challenge , i really hunted hard core gloabby for a threaded service cap , so as NOT to have to have the added step of removing the burly-azz double male threaded union , but end of the day it was diving deep into the international price tape structure to find this sexy-sassy OEM toyota genuine part JAPAN spec' service / hex nut ...... , honestly i thought this was going to be a no-go and i would personally and professionally fail my original mission statement , but i guess lucky is a proper term here on this hex-nut below , and of course a OEM freeze-plug for the egr hole in the intake , both rim of plug and inner diameter bore of intake , lightly coated with 00295-00105 black FIPG of course ......
It always fascinates me how meticulous TOYOTA japan plating is , you would never see that on a China
crap DORMAM plug or a USA made one for that matter ..
After a few minutes head scratching and convincing myself that my IR231 Ingorol Rand 1/2” air impact could in theory Crack the front exhaust manifold like ICE ?
- the time tested use of a OXY torch , rapidly applied pin point precision cherry
red status made removing the double male threaded EGR union a simple 1/2 “ long hand ratcheting eazy-peezy step ….done
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I have recreated the unique ACHORN nut equipped P/S pulley slider adjust and lock down bolt parts , I’m waiting on that darn odd shoulder bolt now , it’s getting reproduced in a super hard alloy stainless …
Also , a 10pack of the OEM NSK JAPAN sealed bearings and new Snap rings too !
