3FE Owners Check-In (19 Viewers)

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does any 3FE owner operators have ANY input or feedback on our to be Valve Cover offical Badge DECAL that TOYOTA forgot to adorn with for some un-known reason long ago ?



what about 3F-E ?
 
ok

so i do have a rather different 2nd idea ?

it would be MORE costly , but is in LOCK STEP fit form function 100 % period correct in every way too


- we all LOOSE the generic EFI badge in the top of the intake

- i have the rough info on making this same in kind
3FE
what say the entire global 3FE folks ?

thanks Matt
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i was hoping that someone familiar with the Double 3FE Heater Pipes on a FJ80 Passenger side Part # 87209-60130 that is DISC. / NLA ....


could explain to me a bit of the TECH. , including if they are prone to corrosion from the inside out ?

- i purchased a 10 pack of these for the FJ6
2 3FE , and 1 is slated for Laboratory study , if need be


- is this a FJ80
3FE needed part or ?


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Looking to replace my drivers seat belt? Someone said I could use the 3rd row seats belt, however one of the metal brackets is bent at a 45 degree angel and will not work? Need some wisdom from the group. Thanks
 
Looking to replace my drivers seat belt? Someone said I could use the 3rd row seats belt, however one of the metal brackets is bent at a 45 degree angel and will not work? Need some wisdom from the group. Thanks


we need photos ?

of each meatal bracket ...
 
So the date is set to try and get my 2fe in my 80 which is on the other side of the country from me. April 15th in Fuquay Varina NC.
I had thought a friend had pulled my 3fe last september but found out yesterday it hasn't been touched. So i'll be pulling the 3fe, swapping all needed parts to the 2fe, installing along with a body lift and then get he stand alone ecu to run.
Then later in the year when I get it back to me in WA i'll be doing the turbo install.

My truck looking sad how it sits currently.

View attachment 3277981

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Can't find a picture of the 2fe currently but this is the specs on it
Specs:
Head was refreshed with new exhaust valves, cleaned, pressure tested, shaved 0.030 and valve job
Oil gallery port tapped and plugged
Late model 2F block
Bored .75mm or 0.030" over
New Toyota lifters
New pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, timing gears
Reground cam Delta 250s

Duration intake 250
Duration exhaust 254
Intakes opens 17, closes 58
Exhaust opens 60 closes 14
cam rise .255 L/C 108 degrees
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014

Injectors professionally cleaned and flow tested
New fuel pulse dampener
3FE Distributor
MSD 6A multispark controller

The entire rotating assembly of this engine was balanced - this is what makes this motor special. It will spin 5k effortlessly and that's where I have the rev limit set. I'm currently running a H55F and the gear spacing is such that I rarely spin it over 4,500. I had the engine WOT dyno tuned and it makes 144RWHP and 206ft*lbs:

View attachment 2600551

At the time I had worn out tires on the my 40, and the tuner didn't trust running it WOT in 4th, so this was the results in 3rd gear. I will tell you, and others who have ridden in my truck will confirm, this thing has a TON more power than any stock 2F or 3FE.


MegaSquirt MS2 controller:
I built this controller and have done most of the tuning myself. This setup allows you to completely control timing, fueling, idle speed, etc etc. Included is a bluetooth adapter that allows tuning and dashboard monitoring via laptop or tablet. I'll throw in my POS tablet that I currently have mounted to my dash, but highly recommend a more elegant solution. The tablet is old, in bad condition, but working. You can see the tablet in the videos below.

Cold start: I have had some issues with cold start. I've been able to tune them out for the most part, but ran out of talent and cold days to get it really good. It still takes several revolutions on a really cold day to start. And honestly, this setup takes an extra crank rev or two to start than stock at all conditions. However, it does always fire up and idles very nicely, immediately.

Oil leaks:
One at the front of the engine: I've confirmed this leak is from the front crank seal, and I've replaced the seal and it still leaks, so the crank pulley will need a speedi-sleeve. Also, there is a seeping leak at the rear passenger side of the engine I believe to be coming from the side cover. Will confirm when the engine is pulled. Couple of drips after parked.

Leak Down Test:
Below are the numbers from each cylinder from a leakdown test. I used a Snap-On and it shows 10-30% as "low" (leakage), 40-70% as "moderate", for reference. Note, that my testing was just using the dizzy rotor position bumped by the starter to get each cylinder to its TDC and I think I had some leakage from the exhaust due to being just past TDC when the exhaust valve was just starting to open (I could hear some air in the exhaust and some in the crankcase)

1 - 7%
2 - 20%
3 - 25%
4 - 15%
5 - 18%
6 - 10%

Compression Test:
Performed with engine warm, dry test. Did not do a wet test.

1 - 190PSI
2 - 175PSI
3 - 180PSI
4 - 175PSI
5 - 180PSI
6 - 185PSI


And the turbo kit that will eventually be installed.
Pics are from a 62 that I bought it from

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Well this didn't go as planned. The guy I sold my 80 to and then bought it back from had screwed it up something bad and it seemed tried to start and fix it. Found tons of missing and snapped bolts while I was pulling it apart. Could not spin the motor so to get to the Tq converter bolts so pulled the whole driveline. Took the engine down to the bare minimum but the bottom end was so gunkedup with rust and other crap that the only way I was going to get the converter/flexplate/engine to auto trans adapter off to put the 2fe in was to plasma cut the very rear of the block off. At this point I was pissed, I was running way behind and didn't see me finishing up the swap anytime soon. I decided all the effort to get this "easy" swap finished was not worth the final outcome and i'd be right at the total amount of effort just to LS/LT swap it at this point.
I gave the 2fe and turbo kit to a friend who is going to use the 2fe to bring his 40 back to life and if the turbo kit doesn't fit right in the 40 body then that will be up for grabs at some point. Fits any 3fe/2fe motor.


Busted ass 3fe
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My Niece learning the ropes
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Engine coming out
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Couple more photos

As it sits waiting to be towed over to the PNW for me to start the LT swap.
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2fe now waiting.for a different host
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My nomad valve body for the A440 will be up for sale shortly.
 
Couple more photos

As it sits waiting to be towed over to the PNW for me to start the LT swap.
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2fe now waiting.for a different host
View attachment 3320897

My nomad valve body for the A440 will be up for sale shortly.



if you need any TID-BITS like electrical connectors i can donate some ... :)
 
MarketDate rangeModelFrames/OptionsFound in diagram
Japan01/1990-12/1997 LAND CRUISERFJ8019-03: ALTERNATOR
Model Dates:Matching Models:Model Options:Links to diagrams:
01/1990-07/1992FJ80G-GNPEE, VX, JPN , VASN , 3FE , ATM , LUB
GeneralLAND CRUISERFJ80,19-03: ALTERNATOR
Model Dates:Matching Models:Links to diagrams:
01/1990-07/1992FJ80R-GNPEEQModel Options: VX , EUR , LHD , 3FE , ATM , LUB , 4FC
01/1990-07/1992FJ80R-GNPNEQ GX , ARL , RHD , 3FE , ATM , 4FC , LUB
Europe, N. America01/1990-12/1997 LAND CRUISERFJ8019-03: ALTERNATOR
Model Dates:Matching Models:Model Options:Links to diagrams:
01/1990-07/1992FJ80L-GNPNEA3FE , ATM
Europe01/1990-12/1997 LAND CRUISERFJ8019-03: ALTERNATOR
Model Dates:Matching Models:Model Options:Links to diagrams:
01/1990-07/1992FJ80L-GCPNEW GX , EUR , LHD , ATM , SOB
01/1990-07/1992FJ80L-GNPEEWVX , EUR , LHD , 3FE , ATM , LUB
01/1990-07/1991FJ80L-GNPNEW
GX , EUR , LHD , ATM , LUB




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Hitting low 90's here - seems like the truck is running more sluggish than usual & the speedo is doing that thing where it says I'm doing 70 in a 30.
Is there anything you do to make your rigs summer ready?
 
Hitting low 90's here - seems like the truck is running more sluggish than usual & the speedo is doing that thing where it says I'm doing 70 in a 30.
Is there anything you do to make your rigs summer ready?



- change your oil and filter to FULL SYNTEHTIC 20W50

- only a hand full of folks still make it , but it;s the LAW in your owners manual in the oil annd fluids spec's

- Royal Purple at NAPA is a GOOD value m, Amsoil , and RED LINE ,,,,,,,,

- i do NOT know another name brand full synthetic 20W50 out there but them ?

- if anyone does POST IT HERE Please

- any thinner weight is NOT acceptable on a
3FE ...

- and neither is 15
W40 SHELL Roltilla Either .... !


TOYOTA finally has a FULL SIZE Canister Filter to Rplace the old 15600-41010 , .....make sure u use this , and NOT the SHORTY-SHRIMP one from your local toyota dealer


- of the new full size TOYOTA one is scarce , the full size DENSO canister is SOLID and also a FULL SIZE UNION SANGO too


- i Power Flush my cooling system in the Fall , but your AIR Box and filter are now clogged with POLLIN and bugs from there breeding and all that


- i find that my rear drum brakes need a SOLID manual adjustment in the spring for some reason ? maybe COLD afftects stuff back there ?



- lastly ALL NEW wiper blades or inserts , winter takes its TOLL ,, spring polon even more ......
 
Hitting low 90's here - seems like the truck is running more sluggish than usual & the speedo is doing that thing where it says I'm doing 70 in a 30.
Is there anything you do to make your rigs summer ready?

There's no magic pill, but running stock tire sizes helps a lot. Spark plugs, wires, etc, can help as well if they're on their way out already.

I've never had my speedo do that before. Very strange.

My rig, on 31" tires, performs in a way that I'm happy with. Not fast, at all, but good enough, and gets a bit over 13 MPG mostly highway. I'm sure there's much better sorted rigs pulling better figures, but I'm happy for the amount of time I've put into it. I enjoy driving it a lot.
 
The engine just barely broken in...shouldn't have any hiccups!!
Understand that......ive had her for 9 yrs, and nothing required but preventive maintenance! I like to go into those long trips paranoid so I can be thrilled on the other side!
 
Help needed- I had a perfectly functioning truck whose only problem was a slight hesitation/hiccup when going from stopped to moving. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it out, adjusted the throttle stop and dash pot screws so the valve could close entirely, tested and adjusted the TPS (functioning according to spec now), tested the IAC, and duct taped my ancient air hose that feeds the TB. I also periodically removed the EFI fuse to reset the ECU. And installed new spark plugs. Now my idle seems to surge and wants to be higher than 650. The engine is shaking every now and then.
Anyone have experience with this?
Thanks
 
Help needed- I had a perfectly functioning truck whose only problem was a slight hesitation/hiccup when going from stopped to moving. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it out, adjusted the throttle stop and dash pot screws so the valve could close entirely, tested and adjusted the TPS (functioning according to spec now), tested the IAC, and duct taped my ancient air hose that feeds the TB. I also periodically removed the EFI fuse to reset the ECU. And installed new spark plugs. Now my idle seems to surge and wants to be higher than 650. The engine is shaking every now and then.
Anyone have experience with this?
Thanks


so .......

what was the whole broad brush summery of why you went in deep here below ?





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Help needed- I had a perfectly functioning truck whose only problem was a slight hesitation/hiccup when going from stopped to moving. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it out, adjusted the throttle stop and dash pot screws so the valve could close entirely, tested and adjusted the TPS (functioning according to spec now), tested the IAC, and duct taped my ancient air hose that feeds the TB. I also periodically removed the EFI fuse to reset the ECU. And installed new spark plugs. Now my idle seems to surge and wants to be higher than 650. The engine is shaking every now and then.
Anyone have experience with this?
Thanks
most likely unmetered air entering your system... or at least that seems to always be where my problems lead me back to with my '92.
Check your lines for condition & routing following the sticker on the underside of the hood.
Before replacing most of mine were cracked, or not fitting snugly on to the fittings letting air in.

I just had to replace my intake on the TB side with this hose because it was completely cracked all the way around and ripped in half when I was inspecting my air filter / tuna can.
 
most likely unmetered air entering your system... or at least that seems to always be where my problems lead me back to with my '92.
Check your lines for condition & routing following the sticker on the underside of the hood.
Before replacing most of mine were cracked, or not fitting snugly on to the fittings letting air in.

I just had to replace my intake on the TB side with this hose because it was completely cracked all the way around and ripped in half when I was inspecting my air filter / tuna can.
New hoses between the throttle body and air filter are on the way…
Double checking hose routing is a good plan. I had replaced them 3 years ago when I got the truck
 

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