3FE Newbie in Need of Help

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I have a $20 craftsman meter at home and I keep a free (with coupon) Harbor Freight unit in each car. Saved my bacon when I had to run this troubleshooting sequence on an interstate overpass in Chattanooga.

The sheet looks intimidating, but pick up a meter and start at the top with 1-4. That was what I did.
1.) I did have 12 Volts at the brass screw in the engine bay fuse box, which meant power was getting that far.
2.) If no 12V at fuse box... well, I had it, so I skipped #2
3.) If 12V at fuse box and no CEL... suspect EFI relay/fuse/wiring

I'd also read what others mentioned... there are relays identical to the EFI relay behind the kick panel just forward of the driver's door.

I pulled a correct-looking relay from down there, swapped it into the engine bay fuse panel.

Got in the truck, turned key, saw the CEL light up, and she started right up. I drove to a parts place, overpaid for a new EFI relay, then drove 2hrs home. Now I keep a spare relay and other electrical bits in the glove box.

And I never got to #4 on the died/won't start troubleshoot procedure.

It might not turn out so easy in your case, but from experience, this portion of it is totally n00b-accesible. So's the rest if you need to go further, you just need to take it a step at a time.
 
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jonheld said:
I don't believe in cheap test equipment, but it's how I make a living. I only use Fluke meters. I have several old 8060A meters scattered around.
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Awesome story! Sometimes I think you like to make things needlessly complicated, just to confuse, intimidate? I have an old fluke 97 scope sitting here, could hook it up and watch the voltage change with time, record it to geek out on later? Would be thrilling, or maybe not so much?!:hillbilly:

In this case, like most things automotive electrical, the need is pretty basic, like stone age. Could be done with a tail light bulb and piece of wire, ground one pole of the bulb, touch the wire connected to the other pole to the battery +. If it brightly lights the needed precision calibration is done, now touch the wire to the B+ terminal, does it light or not, question answered, done, move to the next test.

Meter brand name, how much it cost, with reason accuracy, whether the measurement is 12.2v or 12.4v is killer trivia, but is totally irrelevant to this job.
 
Tools R Us said:
Awesome story! Sometimes I think you like to make things needlessly complicated, just to confuse, intimidate? I have an old fluke 97 scope sitting here, could hook it up and watch the voltage change with time, record it to geek out on later? Would be thrilling, or maybe not so much?!:hillbilly:

In this case, like most things automotive electrical, the need is pretty basic, like stone age. Could be done with a tail light bulb and piece of wire, ground one pole of the bulb, touch the wire connected to the other pole to the battery +. If it brightly lights the needed precision calibration is done, now touch the wire to the B+ terminal, does it light or not, question answered, done, move to the next test.

Meter brand name, how much it cost, with reason accuracy, whether the measurement is 12.2v or 12.4v is killer trivia, but is totally irrelevant to this job.
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Well, then I suppose we can agree to disagree. You use what you're comfortable with, and I'll use what works for me.
And stop being such a dick.
 
To OP- once you get your 80 back on the road you might want to run by the nearest "Pik n Pull", or whatever auto salvage yards you have nearby. It's very inexpensive to grab a handful of relays, (that are the same part # as your EFI relay) Look at the Toyota trucks, and cars out there.... the majority of them use the same relay part #, and you can grab them (where I'm at anyway) for $2 a piece! I always carry a couple spares.

* To whomever- I don't believe someone recommending you buy QUALITY tools is irrelevant. It's not fun being stuck in the middle of BFE because your cheap tools broke. Just my .02cents. "Pay to play"

* Good luck OP! Between Jonheld and Tools R Us your in great hands!
 
3FE Dave said:
Thats very interesting glad you got the issue resolved.
One of my projects is to swap out my old (and somewhat loose) battery cables for mil spec. Do you remember where you ordered them from (hopefully a kit, I know another Mudder on here has a prepackaged cable kit).

Thanks for the info!
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I bought them on Amazon. $20
 
Thank you everyone once again for all the help, time, and consideration I truly appreciate it.

I have ordered new fusible links and the little black box the fit in (@jonheld thank you for the link).
I have also ordered new mil spec battery cables with boots.


I received all of my goodies from toyota parts deal (new rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires) last night and will install those this Saturday morning to save time. This Saturday I will also be changing the EFI relay and as many of the old relays and fuses I can find just to be safe. At this time I will also be testing everything with a volt meter and going step by step through jon's great writeup. Maybe I will find I have a bad coil or something like that and will order whatever part I need this weekend if anything is bad.

Then all I have left is to install the new fusible links and mil spec battery cables (my cables are far from tight) and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to post in my thread your all the best :)
 
Tiny update:
I was able to make it over to my family members house on a lunch break to take a peek under the hood of my loved 80 series and I wanted to let you all know that:
1. 2 of the 3 fusible links have exposed wire...all 3 look shot
2. Only the A/T Fluid Temp light comes on re warning lights

Tomorrow AM I will install all the parts I have and then install the fusible links and cables when I get them in.

Thanks everyone and hope you all have a great weekend
 
Excellent, but seriously, you need to take voltage measurements. They might look shot but be working fine, or be shot. If you have vehicle power, all the more reason to measure voltages and get to the source of the problem.

Frank
 
Happy Saturday Everyone!
I hope you, your loved ones, and of course your Cruisers are doing well this weekend :)

I went over to my family members house this morning and installed new dizzy rotor, all new spark plugs, new wires, dizzy cap, and EFI relay and the EFI fuse.

I would have not installed those parts myself if it wasn't for you great people so thank you very much!

Sadly, but as many here have predicted...my FJ80 still wont start.
Like I said I will be replacing the fusible links as mine are literally broken (wires exposed and severed) and at the same time Im putting on Mil Spec cables.

I apologize for not getting a volt meter yet and once I do I will test everything...hopefully the fusible links do it if not maybe the coil (will test asap) is just bad (that would be nice).

Thanks again everyone and enjoy your weekend
 
If your fusible link is to blame I'd say FL Main would be the culprit. There are three fuses in this diagram that I would pull and ensure are not blown.

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@elripster thank you for the thoughtful diagram I appreciate it :)

I know for certain that the fusible link that has the grey connector attached has exposed and severed wires maybe this is the problem.

I still have to get a volt meter (i know important and not expensive) just have been busy and still waiting for the fusible links.

If the links dont do the trick atleast I know thats one less possibility for me to need a tow truck.

Thanks again and PS. enjoy living in SD its my dream to live down there someday (Im in my early 20s) but one day maybe Ill find myself on "the island" ;)
 
San Diego sure is nice. I did a few years in the midwest and while the people were awesome and we had a lot of fun, it's hard to beat mountain biking before work in January.

Frank
 
Hello everyone and Happy Friday.
Have been busy at work and waiting for parts so haven't exactly been LC productive but all the parts are in (junction box, fusible links, and mil spec terminals) gonna do the install tomorrow morning. I will also finally buy my volt meter tomorrow to do a better diagnosis, either way (fingers crossed though) it will be good to have a volt meter and they're cheap.

To be honest I'm alittle worried about the following:
1. Installing the mil spec battery cables from prime 4x4 (exact model in link below if you're kind enough to check and are able to tell)
worries me as Ive heard they may not work with the OEM new fusible links. I also have seen videos where it looks super easy to change out the terminals with the use of a special electrical cutter and I ll buy one tomorrow but is changing these terminals out really a 10 minute job and simple?
Military Battery Terminal and Boot Sets


2. Im worried about separating the bolt that attaches to the positive battery cable and holds the fusible links I believe. I know some have mentioned this piece when replacing the links is old and will most likely break, any suggestions and I would like to buy the correct wrench or tool if anyone knows off the top of their head.

Thanks for reading my stupid questions and I really hope to report she runs tomorrow morning.

Happy Friday :)
 
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!
I went over this morning to work on my favorite vehicle ever, my 1991 FJ80 (1,500 bucks and 333,000k miles) and installed the fusible links and the new junction box.Turned the key on and BAM Check Engine Light was light up :)

I had also replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and plug wires last weekend.

Anyway, I opened up the very trashed junction box for the fusible links and the wire with the grey connector was completely severed and the two bolts in there were completely caked in this odd dirty gooie substance. I literally had to play archieologist and dig out the goo to see the bolts thats how bad they were.

Anyway thank you soo much everyone for all of your very kind and thoughtful help I would have never attempted if it wasnt for you guys. One of the main reasons I purchased my 80 was so that I could do as much of the repairs myself and thanks to your guidance I was able to get the old tank up and running again all by myself and spent less than 250 in parts. Good shops in SoCal charge 70-100 an hour just for labor plus now I know how to replace these parts if they good bad again.

Next project(s):
Brake pads, rotors, calipers, and lines
New Alternator
Finish my window project (have literally all the new parts just have to save 250 for the window motor so pricey but I want OEM I went aftermarket and had issues and respect Toyota's parts quality.

I didn't install my mil spec terminals :( yet (my terminals are shot) as I dont think I can attach the fusible links and associated round wire connecting ends to the positive cable maybe will have radio/electrical shop do it.

Thank again everyone :)
 
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