3FE Newbie in Need of Help

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3

3FE Dave

Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Threads
8
Messages
48
Location
California
Hello Everyone,

My apologies for not being more proactive with posting (especially pics) as I have had a lot going on in life.

I have a 1991 Land Cruiser with 333,000 miles on the clock and have put 250 miles on the tank since purchase. I have replaced the battery, the alternator looks to be in good shape and the electrical system is charging and holding a charge. I have replaced several fuses and got the funky alarm working and the radio, have replaced the map lights with LEDs, and have done an oil change with 15w40 and OEM Toyota Thai filter. I cleaned the engine this weekend with good results and the truck ran great after that, I even went on a small trip with my SO in the LC and the old tank performed just fine.


However, yesterday I broke down wound up needing a tow. I sincerely felt ashamed that I wasn’t able to fix my LC myself to get home as I am trying to do as much of the work myself but here is what happened and I would sincerely appreciate it if you mechanical/electrical/LC experts could advise me.


Yesterday, Monday 4/17 I started the LC up for work no problems or anything unusual. Went to go home and she started up fine no issues and then after a few minutes of driving the LC nearly stalled, RPMS dropped very very low. I continued on my way home and then my old beat completely stalled out and I was able to coast/glide to a safe location fortunately.


From my observations the spark plugs and wires are all shot so I know I will be replacing those as I like to buy NOS OEM Toyota Parts only. However, and please excuse my ignorance as Im not very mechanically inclined but I saw that there was a tube/hose with a red plastic inside that goes from the distributor cap to some electrical unit on the passenger side fender area that was completely broken off. There is an area on the distributor cap that is plastic where that tube/wire goes and that’s cracked and I cant attach that wire to it any longer.

Is this why my LC stalled and now wont start (cranks fine).

If I replace the cap and spark plug wires and those 2 extra wires (not spark plugs but on the cap) will my LC run again.


I would really appreciate any advice and info. I feel like with the help of this forum I will be able to get my LC running again.
 
Are you referring to the wire that goes from the ignition coil to the dizzy? You definitely need that to start the truck. I would check the coil as well.

upload_2017-4-18_16-16-55.webp
 
jdayment said:
Are you referring to the wire that goes from the ignition coil to the dizzy? You definitely need that to start the truck. I would check the coil as well.

View attachment 1443491
Click to expand...

Yes thats the one thank you so very much for the reply. I mean my LC will crank over even with that ignition coil wire broken off of the distributor but obviously I need to replace all the wires and the cap/rotor

I really hope this is the culprit :( as replacing the entire distributor seems extremely daunting.
 
3FE Dave said:
Yes thats the one thank you so very much for the reply. I mean my LC will crank over even with that ignition coil wire broken off of the distributor but obviously I need to replace all the wires and the cap/rotor

I really hope this is the culprit :( as replacing the entire distributor seems extremely daunting.
Click to expand...

It will crank because of the signal being sent to the starter but you are not getting any spark from the coil.
 
Thanks so much for your help.
Im going buy a cheapo cap and ignition coil wire and pray it gets me through till I can get all new OEM wires and cap.
If you dont mind my asking is it easy to change the cap out?
 
3FE Dave said:
Thanks so much for your help.
Im going buy a cheapo cap and ignition coil wire and pray it gets me through till I can get all new OEM wires and cap.
If you dont mind my asking is it easy to change the cap out?
Click to expand...

Its not too difficult the wire will come with all of the spark plug wires you can get denso ones which are similar to OEM from advance. Do a search for the FSM here on mud you can download it for free. It will take you step by step on how to do everything. Always here to help.
 
This stuff is all very straightforward, but you will have to remove the air cleaner lid along with the large intake tube. There are 3 things that you need to be aware of.
1. Do not, repeat, do not remove the 2 phillips screws when trying to remove the connector on the AFM (attached to the air cleaner lid). There is a small spring clip that you push up to remove the connector.

2. Be very careful when removing the air cleaner lid as the intake tube is most likely brittle from age and will tear at the bellows. This will cause woe and strife...and poor idle. Loosen the clamp at the throttle body and gently work that end until it seems free. Then you should be able to rotate the entire assembly counterclockwise and remove it without drama.

3. There are 3 vacuum lines (2 small; 1 larger) attached to a feed through mounted on the rear of the intake tube. Be certain to put these back correctly.

OEM parts are HIGHLY recommended for all ignition components. You will find that they are superior to any aftermarket brand. The OEM cap has numbered ports for the wires and you should be able to read the word DENSO when looking at it from the passenger side. The OEM wire set is also numbered and dated. It would be pretty difficult to make a mistake.
 
Thanks for all your help everyone, I truly appreciate it.
I wasnt able to order OEM Toyota cap and plug wires due to time constraints but I did manage to replace the cap last night and the spark plug wires. I went to start my LC (and granted when it broke down it only cranked and did not start at all) and the old tank actually ran for a few seconds (rough) and stalled again. Im sure I have 2 spark plug wires mixed up but going to take a look when I get home tonight. It was raining last night and there were other obstacles to overcome but I feel like this (new cap and plugs) is the solution as now my LC was running atleast (if even for a few seconds).

1. If my LC wouldnt run at all (just cranked before) and now that Ive replaced the cap and plug wires will run for a few seconds (got 2 wires wrong pretty sure) do you think that was the culprit?

2. Do you think I caused any damage by getting 2 plug wires wrong and started it like that for a few seconds?

Thanks a million peoples!
 
No damage done by having two plug wires swapped. Change them to correct orientation and try again.
 
Hello Everyone,

Thank you to all those that have replied and have offered their advice and knowledge I sincerely appreciate it. Last night I flipped the two wires I thought that were incorrect and still wouldn’t start but I’m not giving up as one time during this new cap and wire install my LC did run (albeit for 7 seconds and very rough) but now I’m back at square one where it just cranks but wont actually run.


I decided that I am going to return the aftermarket cap and plugs as I used those because I didn’t have time to order OEM parts but I will be towing my LC to someone’s house who will let me work on it there fortunately.


So I am going to be ordering the coil, spark plugs, wires, and cap all NOS OEM parts and will be installing them once they arrive in conditions without rain, nighttime, and someone who wants the LC gone in X amount of hours.


I just have a few questions before I install everything which will be next weekend most likely:


1. Does #1 spark plug wire on the cap go to #1 cylinder? Does #2 spark plug wire on the cap go to cylinder 2 on the engine, etc.…

2. I looked at the FSM for the 3FE but am confused. Is the spark plug that goes closest to the radiator #1 and the one closest to the firewall #6 or is reversed where the spark plug closest to the radiator #6, etc.

3. Some of my spark plugs are moderately loose, I know they have to be torqued and this isn’t obviously how it should be but will this effect the engine cranking but not starting?


I’m sure I’ll have more basic dumb questions but thank you for being patient with me.



Thanks so much everyone I truly appreciate it!
 
1. Yes, that is correct.

2. Yes, closest to radiator or forward most part of engine is #1.

3. It could impact starting and performance, in fact it should, but you should still get some activity out of the engine when it tries to start. It will probably idle poorly, even stall, but a few loose plugs should at least run, though poorly.

If you aren't getting a cough or sputter out of her I'd say you either still have no spark or, for example, the fuel pump fuse blew and you have not fuel.

Check the large pipe connecting the air cleaner to the engine for cracks/tears. If it gets torn to badly it will cough, die, and if bad enough might not even do that.

Frank
 
Thanks for your help with my dumb questions I appreciate it.

I have ordered new OEM dizzy rotor (mine looked alittle worn), cap, plugs (including coil wire), and spark plugs.

I will update this thread when I install the parts.

Thanks to those who have replied.
 
Hello Jon,
No the CEL is not illuminated.

Thanks for your interest in my problem and guidance I appreciate it
 
3FE Dave said:
Hello Jon,
No the CEL is not illuminated.

Thanks for your interest in my problem and guidance I appreciate it
Click to expand...
OK, then full stop.
If the CEL is NOT illuminated with the key in the ON position before the starter cranks, then the ECU is not in a ready state. There will be no spark in this condition so there is no need to even attempt to start.
You MUST address this issue first.
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf
 
Good catch! I'd say check fuses before proceeding.

Frank
 
EFI relay is also worth a mention....
 
Hello everyone!
I wanted to give a big thank you to those several members above who have kindly advised me and have been a great help, thank you!

Update as of 9AM PST today 4/26:
My new OEM parts will be delivered today and I will be installing them tonight after work, these are the new parts I'll be installing:
1. New spark plugs
2. New spark plug wires
3. New rotor
4. New cap
5. New Dizzy seal

I miss driving my FJ80 so much and can't wait to get my old tank on the road again.

I'm hoping that this will fix my issue of my 3fe dying (see first post). If not I know thanks to many of you guys above that it could be the EFI Relay (I'll be ordering a few new ones asap as well) or all of the wiring associated with the efi and the ecu.

I will keep you all posted fingers crossed.
I will be installing these parts around 8PM PST tonight.
 
Until you have a CEL in the on position I don't think you are going to be out of the water first thing I would do is replace the EFI relay check the ingition fuse and replace your fusible links everything else is a great baseline to do though.
 
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