- Thread starter
- #21
I called the local auto parts store and have a EFI relay coming today as well.
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pengfinn
dead set
In the meantime, as a test, you can swap the EFI relay with any of the identical ones in the drivers side kick panel. You'll have to remove the footrest and pull the trim a bit to get it free, but it's a quick way to troubleshoot.
Perhaps I wasn't clear in post #16 so I will reiterate.
If your CHECK ENGINE light does not come ON when you turn the ignition to the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter, this engine will not run. There will be no spark as the ECU is not in a ready state.
None of the parts listed above will have any effect on this.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it.
After work today I will atleast install all the parts I've ordered including the EFI relay and then start testing with @jonheld article.
Ive read it several times and am nervous/dont think i will install it (fusible links) properly which I'm sure needs to be done (333,000 miles).
If you guys don't think that its all to difficult to replace the associated fusible links and think I may be able to do it I would really appreciate it if you could guide me in the direction of where I can buy this fusible links. I've ordered (happily) all my parts from toytapartsdiscount and cant seem to find them on there. If the installation of fusible links involves advanced electrical skills I will sadly have the shop do it.
Tanks again everyone
After work today I will atleast install all the parts I've ordered including the EFI relay and then start testing with @jonheld article.
Ive read it several times and am nervous/dont think i will install it (fusible links) properly which I'm sure needs to be done (333,000 miles).
If you guys don't think that its all to difficult to replace the associated fusible links and think I may be able to do it I would really appreciate it if you could guide me in the direction of where I can buy this fusible links. I've ordered (happily) all my parts from toytapartsdiscount and cant seem to find them on there. If the installation of fusible links involves advanced electrical skills I will sadly have the shop do it.
Tanks again everyone
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As Jon said, unless the bulb is burned out, this indicates that the ECU is not getting power, so all of the other stuff isn't going to help, until this is solved, its not going to run. Can replace a bunch of stuff and hope, or do a diagnosis and find the problem.
Get a volt meter or test light. With the key to run, is there power at the B+ terminal in the diagnostic plug? If yes, the problem is between there and the ECU, if no, its between there and the battery. If no, trace it back, is there power at the input terminal for the ECU relay, the fuse, fusible link, etc?
My favorite, quick and dirty, method for testing the fusible link is to simply pull on it (hard), you shouldn't be able to pull them apart, if you can, it was the problem. Twist, connect it back together and see if the light is on. If you have power at the relay input, take a piece of wire, jumper input to output, is the light on? If so the relay is bad or the circuit that activates it is the problem. IMHO, it's much better to find the real problem and repair it than replacing a bunch of random parts and hope.
Not sure where you are in Cali but if you get stuck maybe a fellow mudder can assist. On old trucks it is often not a bad idea to replace old parts even before they fail, but on the flip side it can get expensive and frustrating if it doesn't solve your issue.
There is a relay and like 2 fuses that supply power to that ECU (as discussed). I echo the others in measuring / checking those fuses (not fusible links necessarily) before just replacing stuff and hoping for the best.
In case it helps... http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf
Frank
There is a relay and like 2 fuses that supply power to that ECU (as discussed). I echo the others in measuring / checking those fuses (not fusible links necessarily) before just replacing stuff and hoping for the best.
In case it helps... http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE EFI Diag.pdf
Frank
Fusible links part# 90982-08264
I order mine from Wits-End because Joey is a nice guy.
Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
They are easy to install.
- Thread starter
- #29
I will be ordering however many you think I will need as I rather be safe than sorry and judging from sub par previous upkeep I will replace as many as I can.
And again my apologies for my ignorance but if you dont mind answering my questions Id appreciate it if you could tell me:
1. How many "fusible links: in the engine bay are there
2. Brief sentence or two on how they are installed (cutting, splicing involved, etc..)
3. From what ive seen thanks to you and many members on this awesome form, one of the fusible links is located under the main fuse box in the engine bay correct?
Thanks so much and no offense taken if you rather not answer my questions lol and thanks again for your help
They are attached to your positive post battery cable.
Listen to @jonheld and @Tools R Us They BOTH know what they are doing. Jon is the primary guy for the 3FE and follow his instructions for what to do and not to do. He is VERY methodical and you must answer the questions in order so you can diagnose. Continue to ask him questions through this forum and he can answer you. If you don't know, state that you don't know.
Good Luck!
Listen to @jonheld and @Tools R Us They BOTH know what they are doing. Jon is the primary guy for the 3FE and follow his instructions for what to do and not to do. He is VERY methodical and you must answer the questions in order so you can diagnose. Continue to ask him questions through this forum and he can answer you. If you don't know, state that you don't know.
Good Luck!
There are 3 individual fusible links and they come as a single unit as shown on the link provided. You need to order 1.
The large terminal lug that joins all 3 attaches to the positive battery terminal. On the other end, you will find 2 ring terminals (1 large, 1 small) and 1 grey connector. The 2 ring terminals attach in the small black junction box seen here: Fuseable Link Junction Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser
The larger of the 2 attaches to the larger of the 2 lugs inside the junction box, the smaller one goes to the smaller lug. The grey connector simply plugs into the existing connector (once you remove the old links).
Thanks to Joey for letting me pilfer pictures and stuff. I told you he's a nice guy.
- Thread starter
- #32
This forum is amazing.
A complete noob like myself will most likely be able to get my loved 80 series running thanks to you guys.
I cant thank you all enough. I will be ordering the fusible link and the the junction box tonight and will install those new parts, and the efi relay asap and will get back with questions/results
Thanks for making a complete mechanical (especially electrical) idiot able to feel confident and prepared to get my 80 on the road again
A complete noob like myself will most likely be able to get my loved 80 series running thanks to you guys.
I cant thank you all enough. I will be ordering the fusible link and the the junction box tonight and will install those new parts, and the efi relay asap and will get back with questions/results
Thanks for making a complete mechanical (especially electrical) idiot able to feel confident and prepared to get my 80 on the road again
I had this happen once and all it was were loose battery terminals. The terminals I had were cheap Pro Audio with allen screws. Allen screws kept coming loose after driving for awhile on washboard dirt roads. After that I changed to the MilSpec Terminals.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thats very interesting glad you got the issue resolved.
One of my projects is to swap out my old (and somewhat loose) battery cables for mil spec. Do you remember where you ordered them from (hopefully a kit, I know another Mudder on here has a prepackaged cable kit).
Thanks for the info!
- Thread starter
- #36
I promise I will for you guys, its the least I can do to return the favor for all your help.
Would you mind messaging me a reasonably priced volt meter recomendation?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #38
Just wanted to see if you had a secret/special rec but when I make an autoparts run I will pick up a cheapish one and give results asap.
Now that I will be replacing the fusible links (have to order) and have to still pick up the EFI relay, I will be doing the install in about a weeks time but i will most likely get a volt meter to test this weekend
I have this one.. LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit
But I also have the cheap $6 ones too. For just checking voltage a bottom of the line one will be fine. The one I bought has and RPM gauge and some other goodies that came in handy over the years, but as mentioned, aren't required for just checking voltage.
Frank
But I also have the cheap $6 ones too. For just checking voltage a bottom of the line one will be fine. The one I bought has and RPM gauge and some other goodies that came in handy over the years, but as mentioned, aren't required for just checking voltage.
Frank
I don't believe in cheap test equipment, but it's how I make a living. I only use Fluke meters. I have several old 8060A meters scattered around.