3F-E Desmog guide is up (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Sweet and thank you!
Thanks! Headed to hardware store tonight.
- Thread starter
- #24
To add to my desmog adventures, I'm now going to reinstall the EGR system in my 62 in hopes that it'll allow me to farther advance my timing and gain more power that way rather than with stock timing and EGR removal. Only thing is that with EGR in place, you've gotta be careful to keep track of carbon buildup and clean it out I'd say once a year or so (along with a full ops check of the EGR components per the FSM).
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The power lost to the EGR will not be made up by advancing the timing.
Max power is made w/ max charge density. EGR serves to reduce the charge density, lowering the speed, temp & pressure of combustion.
Max power is made w/ max charge density. EGR serves to reduce the charge density, lowering the speed, temp & pressure of combustion.
Five more years and I'll be de-smogging mine also!
- Thread starter
- #27
Wouldn't it be likely that a properly functioning EGR system wouldn't negatively affect power though? My thinking is that if the system is working the way it should and not hurting power, it'll allow you to advance your timing to the optimal setting without causing the engine to ping, which in turn would help with power.
The downside I see to having the EGR though, is the source of carbon buildup, and it took me a long time to get rid of as much carbon as I could after desmogging.
Arron, you need to worry about that water pump
Arron, you need to worry about that water pump
Gasket will be in today and I picked up a new radiator yesterday. They didn't recommend trying to fix mine due to the very thin tank material. So, I picked one up from Performance Radiator on Sprague. It's all metal and is pretty damn nice.
Friday morning I'll be out there putting it back together
You might try adding a catch can in the PCV line to separate some of the oil out of the intake manifold. Check out the thread in the 80 section that discusses catch cans. I added one a couple of weeks ago before a 1,000 mile trip and the gunk it collected was nasty and plentiful and would have gone into the intake manifold otherwise.
Wouldn't it be likely that a properly functioning EGR system wouldn't negatively affect power though? My thinking is that if the system is working the way it should and not hurting power, it'll allow you to advance your timing to the optimal setting without causing the engine to ping, which in turn would help with power.
The downside I see to having the EGR though, is the source of carbon buildup, and it took me a long time to get rid of as much carbon as I could after desmogging.
Arron, you need to worry about that water pump
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- #30
There was a company a while back that made catch cans for the PCV line that also had a filter integrated into 'em to further catch any particulate matter in the gas. IIRC they were amazingly expensive.
That'd definitely be a great way to further reduce carbon buildup though.
Edit: Condensator; found it. Seems to be the same price as all the pre-made catch cans. Thinking I'm might try to find one and install it after I give everything a good cleaning again.
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Engine Oil Vapor Separator Catch Can at HMS is the one I put on the 80 and haven't checked the innards of yet. It made the same trip to Moab as the 62 with Craftsman air compressor filter/separator that I checked this morning and cleaned several ounces of slime out of. The one from the link is expensive but purpose built and probably more effective but the Craftsman thing worked too for a lot less money. I went with the expensive one on the 80 as the truck is supercharged and requires a little more sophisticated separator to work well. I'll report on what I find in it.
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- #32
Yeah I'm curious to see what you end up with. It'd be great to (for the most part) "solve" the carbon/sludge buildup issue with 3FEs. Looks to be just a little lower in price than the Condensator units (when you figure that they're $200 Canadian), and the Condensators have a transparent reservoir, which would be nice for being able to tell when you need to drain it. Actually disposing of whatever sludge you end up with in your recyclable oil it probably a wee bit better for the environment too than just letting it burn or flushing it out with solvents...
Checked the container of the 80's HMS separator and found about an ounce or less of what pretty much looked like engine oil. It was much less like sludge than what came out of the 62's can. Couldn't just turn the can upside down and let the oil drain out as the interior sides catch a little bit as they are designed to do. Could have used the drain in the bottom of the can but wanted to measure what was in there for a first time baseline. After 1000 miles, both the Craftsman and the HMS appear to do what is desired of them and the air going into the cylinders is cleaner than it was before the separators were installed. If nothing else, less gunk buildup in the intake manifolds and backs of the intake valves, but if the propaganda I've read is even partially true, then other benefits will make themselves evident.
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- #34
I would imagine any economy and/or performance improvement would appear only after all the carbon and sludge is cleaned out of the TB and intake runners. I remember my EGR valve was thick with crap when I pulled it out, so if that's any indication, my intake and combustion chambers are in sad shape.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Steve,
Throw up a pic of the setup on Bart! With my intake now nicely cleaned I want to install one tomorrow!
Dunbar
Throw up a pic of the setup on Bart! With my intake now nicely cleaned I want to install one tomorrow!
Dunbar
- Thread starter
- #36
Dave, I assume you pulled yours off to clean it good n' proper? I don't see any really good way to do it while it's installed on the truck. Methinks I'll have to do up the extra TB and manifold that Crazy sent me so I can just do a quick swap on everything.
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Dan,
Yes I pulled it to install rebuilt injectors to cure a clogged injector problem.
If you have the time I would go ahead and pull the intake and install rebuilt injectors at the same time. If you are in a hurry I think you could to a pretty good job by just pulling the throttle body and using a full can of B&G intake cleaner. Actually you would need to pull the EGR and the cold start injector to get more angles of attach with the spray.
B&G is amazing stuff and will really rip away the accumulate gunk just with the spray pressure.
Probably a good idea to change the oil after dumping a whole can into the crank case via the intake though.
Since you have an extra intake sent it to Randy for this treatment.
Yes I pulled it to install rebuilt injectors to cure a clogged injector problem.
If you have the time I would go ahead and pull the intake and install rebuilt injectors at the same time. If you are in a hurry I think you could to a pretty good job by just pulling the throttle body and using a full can of B&G intake cleaner. Actually you would need to pull the EGR and the cold start injector to get more angles of attach with the spray.
B&G is amazing stuff and will really rip away the accumulate gunk just with the spray pressure.
Probably a good idea to change the oil after dumping a whole can into the crank case via the intake though.
Since you have an extra intake sent it to Randy for this treatment.
- Thread starter
- #38
DAMN! That's purty. Looks like he bored out the TB as well. Have you driven the truck with that all installed yet?
Dunbar
SILVER Star
No thats not mine. It is on Mark Mellon Werch's 3FEJ40. I just cleaned mine up.
David
David
- Thread starter
- #40
Oh gotcha. That's still damn impressive work. I wonder how much it cost...
