Any hints as to what MPG you are getting now?
Now to browse through that guide in case I ever find a nice FJ62...
Now to browse through that guide in case I ever find a nice FJ62...
3F-E Desmog guide is up (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
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- Thread starter
- #62
I haven't measured in a while, but my guess is 12-13 MPG on average. I'm curious to see if I have any difference with the FPR hooked back up to vacuum. I know it'll improve once I swap my auto out for an H55, so I'm wanting to run through a few tanks before I do that, so I can see what difference just the FPR will make.
Cool, thanks. Look forward to reading about the 55 swap too.
- Thread starter
- #64
Well I went from about two dozen vacuum lines to four (five if you count the one my cruise control actuator uses, but that's not a factory line), and eliminated use of all but the large fuel vapor suction line on the big vacuum manifold (the one bolted underneath the intake). I have new silicon vacuum line coming from McMaster-Carr and will clean up what's under the hood and then post an update with a couple pics on what I've done different.
As said before, I left the PCV system and the fuel vapor/evap system intact since I gain nothing by removing them, and they actually are beneficial.
As said before, I left the PCV system and the fuel vapor/evap system intact since I gain nothing by removing them, and they actually are beneficial.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Do you have a p/n for the mcmaster-carr tubing?
- Thread starter
- #66
5041K522 is McMaster-Carr's P/N for their 3mm ID clear/blue silicon vacuum hose. All (aside from the stuff that's obviously bigger by looking at it) the stock vacuum hoses are 3mm ID.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Spook - got any pics of how it finally turned out? It's easier for idiots like me to put it all together.
Go snap a few and post
Go snap a few and post
- Thread starter
- #69
Clear tubing! That will look
$1.33/foot - how many feet you buying?
I think I ordered 25ft of it, and I have PLENTY to spare that I'll use in my other vehicles. Like, more than 3/4 of what I ordered.
fjatl, I dicked up my pics that I took (my own fault
) so I'll need to take more, and I want to finish modifying the vacuum manifold (the one that bolts up "underneath" the intake) so it'll be nice and cleaned up and I'll take pics of the final product. With the exception of the vacuum hoses for my cruise control, fuel tank evap and the PCV line, I'm down to three vacuum lines now. The engine runs GREAT now, and with the finalizing of my desmog and tweaking the ignition advance a bit, I can hold long highway hills WAY better than before (though I'm honestly not sure which made the bigger difference).
Probably a stupid question, but can you do the entire desmog (via Spook50's FAQ) EXCEPT keep the stock exhaust and cats? My 62 is running poorly, and I'm thinking why not get rid of the problem vs fix the problem (assuming I have vacuum leaks, a clogged/bad EGR, etc.)
I'm going through the FSM and doing the "rough idle" trouble shooting in order, first. Hoping to leave the stock exhaust in as it is pretty rusted, and then upgrade to all new exhaust with one magnaflow cat (no O2 sensors) when I save up the $$.
I'm going through the FSM and doing the "rough idle" trouble shooting in order, first. Hoping to leave the stock exhaust in as it is pretty rusted, and then upgrade to all new exhaust with one magnaflow cat (no O2 sensors) when I save up the $$.
- Thread starter
- #71
I don't see why not. The only possible issue I see is that without air injection (via the "smog" pump) it might make the cats heat up too much. Not 100% if this will be the case though. My cats were one of the first things to go so I had no basis to find out for sure.
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The exhaust can stay as it is for now.
But, the O2 sensors are not optional. Cats are.
But, the O2 sensors are not optional. Cats are.
Nice job Dan. Did you notice much of a difference? HP? MPG?
I just removed my EGR(for cleaning)and it was really clean! Not all gummed up like my 22R use to get.
I was surprised, but happy. I'm thinking I've got a tight engine, even if it's clacky
.
Have we figured out how to trick the Cali ECUs into thinking the EGR is still in tact? the 1FZFE guys seem to have luck with a 10K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the EGR temp sensor plug. does the same apply to our ECUs?
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is there a physical difference between California/non-California ECU's? Or could you get a California box and put the non-California innards inside of it?
yeah, you could....but I have a Cali ECU and a 10K ohm resistor is about 2 bucks for 5 at the shack as opposed to swapping in a used ECU...if there was a way to keep the EGR disabled while keeping the ECU happy in regards to our CAli ECUs needing to see some higher EGR temps to satisfy all conditions and keep the CEL dark without having to swap in a federal ECU, I'd love to hear about it. I need a code 71 like I need a soup sandwich.
On the 94 1FZ all I had to do was connect the 2 temp sensor wires back to each other. Works when the EGR is working and when its disabled. No Code 71. I dont think with the wires connected code 71 can ever return even if the EGR fails.
WILL TRY, THANKS...
@LAMBCRUSHER, I'm running into the same issue with the EGR temp sensor (I live in Portland, OR but have a CA '89 FJ62). Did you find a fix that worked?
no- but I have since resmogged and the issue has not come back up- it must be that the ERG gasses are actually too cold when running desmogged- I have heard tell of a harness connector that plugs in to the connector for the temp sensor that bypasses it...I am not certain, but think it may have a specific resistor in series with the 2 wires going back to the ECU. Check in th 80 series tech- if you can find any...
