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3B Turboed help me out again question

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Always on the Run
Alright fellas, alot of you have followed my resto on my BJ42 and the issues that came along with it. I didnt even mention the last last issue for it is all just getting rediculous now. Short story from last, one of my injection lines cracked on a long drive to my new duty station but I recently bought used lines and replaced the one that was cracked. All is good so far but there is an issue that this thing just doesnt have much power being turboed and all? I spoke with Dan at 4 wheel auot who I bought alot of parts through and he mentioned about turning up fuel on it since I have not even messed with nor anyone else for that matter after rebuild. In 1st, 2nd, and a little in 3rd gear you can feel the power the turbo gives but in 4th and 5th and is nothing and I am crawling up hills. I have 3.70 gears, 32" skinnys and 5 speed so I probably will go back to 4.11's real soon but for now how much should i turn the fuel screw to give me a little more power? I have the garrett GT2052 like alot of other fellas here but again still slow as a snail on hills. ANy help is appreciated. I have a pre turbo egt probe but I do not have a boost gauge.

Thanks\
Rob
 
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do you know what the turbo is outputting (boost) even though you don't have a guage?
might be worth to pick up one just to check, if it's not outputting a lot then that would do it. How's the fuel economy?
EGTs?
any spot on the intake hoses where the air might be leaking?
brakes dragging?
that's all I can think of at the moment.

EDIT: I see someone beat me to a couple questions
 
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egt bah, i had mine up to 1700 F for about 6 - 8 mins, just drive the frigging thing, and when she melts down build a new one for about the cost about 1000 bucks for a rusted out bj60 with a great 3b and drive train. i damn cant believe you pll and all your shenanigans.
 
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good luck with that...
especially if it happens 1000km from civilization in the middle of the bush......now back on track...
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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Just to check.... New Diaphragm? May take a bit to break in a bit.
You have the EGT and that's what really matters when adjusting the fuel. Turn in up in 1/4 to 1/2 turns. Drive a bit and see what difference it makes. Get out and adjust again.

I use 1000F as my gold standard. If I'm there at a medium RPM up a hill loaded, then i know I'm not pushing the engine too hard. When I know I'm hauling a bit more, I'll adjust it up a bit to get around the 1100 to 1200 MAX when really driving her.. Efficiency suffers there, but it feels good to the butt dyno.

It's not really a set and forget thing, especially with the new motor and such you have. You'll have to play with it and get to know it while you drive it and then set to where you like it. I run more boost than some, but I have a 2B so if I blow it, I'll get a 3B and drop that in. You have a rebuilt 3B so you may want to take it slow on the settings..
 
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thanks fellas. EGT in 5th has gotten up to 950 at 65mph, Diaphram is new, brakes not draggin, yes engine still very tight for it has about 1200 miles on it and the last 400 were pulling my CDN M101 trailer loaded which was about 1500lbs but it did fine pulled consistently at 60mph. I will get the boost gauge as soon as possible and for now I will try turning fuel 1/4 at a time and keep an eye on EGT's. And can someone add a pic of where a boost gauge line taps into the turbo system for I have no idea once I get one.

Thanks
R
 
Last edited:

arnott1t

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You really need a boost gauge on there. It should plumb in between the turbo compressor and intake. Often there is a barb or port right on the compressor housing itself. When I first installed my turbo I was making a wopping 2psi of boost. Very underwhelming. Now its cranking 17psi max and your darn rights I feel the difference. I'm running 3.7 gears with 35" swampers and it moves it along pretty fine. I am regearing for better trail manners but I love it on the highway. I can cruise 65mpf at less than 200 RPM boost 8psi and running 7-900 EGT depending on wind/grade.
 
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Roberto

get a boost gauge asap, where is your thermocouple before or after turbo? Anyhow if you haven't increased the fuel you are missing 90% of the fun. Bump that up 1/2 a turn.
 
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thanks fellas. EGT in 5th has gotten up to 950 at 65mph, Diaphram is new, brakes not draggin, yes engine still very tight for it has about 1200 miles on it and the last 400 were pulling my CDN M101 trailer loaded which was about 1500lbs but it did fine pulled consistently at 60mph. I will get the boost gauge as soon as possible and for now I will try turning fuel 1/4 at a time and keep an eye on EGT's. And can someone add a pic of where a boost gauge line taps into the turbo system for I have no idea once I get one.

Thanks
R

Pre turbo Egt can run 1200F-1300F as a max setting, if you are seeing 950F as max you need more fuel.
You will get alot of opinions on gear ratio/tire size look up the link, diesels develope power at certain rpms, the stock ratio was figured out by Toyota and they seem to know what they are about.
Gear Ratio Calculator
With low fuel, 3:73 gears, 32 tires and low boost your rig will run like you don't have a turbo. Increase fuel, check boost (should be above 7-9 psi) and run 4:10 gears (this opinion will get all kinds of comments) and it will run great.
I choose 4:10 gears (or 4:11) with 32 inch tires as this ratio (check it against the calculator in the link) is stock and will put you in the proper rpm power curve designed by Toyota.
Let us know how it works out.
One other question, have you done anything with your injectors, you said you rebuilt the motor?

Jim
 
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I turned up the fuel on my 'B' as high as possible... I don't get the clouds of black smoke that the 3B makes with the fuel turned really high.

turn it up fullblast and have some fun
 

seatosummit

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In regards to the cracked injection line, was this a result of a missing injection line bracket?

I recently had the same issue although my rig was missing the bracket that holds together the second and first lines. After driving 1400 miles the vibration was sufficient to cause a crack that spanned almost the entire circumference of the line...I was pretty thankful it waited till my driveway to show any serious signs.

Just curious if this issue happens to rigs that aren't missing the bracket.

Thanks
 
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Thanks fellas, yeah she just aint running right and I beleive I will switch back to 4.11 gears as soon as I can. I did turn fuel up about 1/4 turn but still lugging on some hills along with lots of down shifting, I will turn up some more. Yes I have a kit like Diesel42's and will try to T in the line as soon as I get a boost gauge. My injection lines dont have the rubber isolaters on at the time and they were not on when cracked, I tried putting them back on but then my lines dont align up anymore so I am not sure what to do there now besides bend the heck out the tubes so I can get the isolaters on. As far as the gearing I heard the same about how these diesels need to be geared lower so I will do that for it does already have the 5 speed

Yes mine is Pre turbo EGT probe

R
 
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Thanks fellas, yeah she just aint running right and I beleive I will switch back to 4.11 gears as soon as I can. I did turn fuel up about 1/4 turn but still lugging on some hills along with lots of down shifting, I will turn up some more. Yes I have a kit like Diesel42's and will try to T in the line as soon as I get a boost gauge. My injection lines dont have the rubber isolaters on at the time and they were not on when cracked, I tried putting them back on but then my lines dont align up anymore so I am not sure what to do there now besides bend the heck out the tubes so I can get the isolaters on. As far as the gearing I heard the same about how these diesels need to be geared lower so I will do that for it does already have the 5 speed

Yes mine is Pre turbo EGT probe

R

More fuel! :)
 
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ok, update. Just got my cruiser back from a diesel specialist in which I explained to him no power and abrasive course sounding. My timing was way off he said. It was at 0 degrees and I guess he said the 3B manual says it should be at 14 degrees. Well since I needed my cruiser back he could only get it to 6 degrees for he did not want to pull the IP for he did not have another o ring if mine was to tear or break. I will bring back so he can pull IP to i guess move it up a gear or 2 so he can advance to 14 degrees. But for now it has much more power, no more lugging up hills, sounds much better and quiter for he said my valves were very tight (from the rebuild torqued to spec but never had a chance to readjust) before i take back to him I am going to get a boost gauge so he can adjust my fuel as well. I thank you all and will update.

R
 
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need?

Hey gang. I noticed someone commented that since his EGT was only 950F or so that he needed more fuel.
Is that really a need? What I mean is in absence of him turning up the fuel and leaving it the way it is (assuming the timing is corrected), does his rig run less efficiently and/or consume more fuel to do the work required or is it somehow hard on the motor long term?
The reason I ask is I've been running my rig to our coast many times per year and I can barely get over 500 Celsius (932F) and that was hauling a trailer up a big hill. Should I turn my fuel up as well until I get to 1200F?
I run just under 15pounds of boost. The majority of my time is spent burning waste vegggie oil on the highway.
(sorry for the partial hijack)
Aaron
 
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Hey gang. I noticed someone commented that since his EGT was only 950F or so that he needed more fuel.
Is that really a need? What I mean is in absence of him turning up the fuel and leaving it the way it is (assuming the timing is corrected), does his rig run less efficiently and/or consume more fuel to do the work required or is it somehow hard on the motor long term?
The reason I ask is I've been running my rig to our coast many times per year and I can barely get over 500 Celsius (932F) and that was hauling a trailer up a big hill. Should I turn my fuel up as well until I get to 1200F?
I run just under 15pounds of boost. The majority of my time is spent burning waste vegggie oil on the highway.
(sorry for the partial hijack)
Aaron


Some more info on your rig would be helpful, model, year, engine, transmission, gear ratio, tire size, milage, condition, injector age, exhaust size (this is a very important upgrade), compression test, all would be to the point.
Where is the EGT probe located? pre or post turbo
The diesel engine makes horse power and torque in relationship to the amount of fuel and air available. You stated 15psi of boost which means you have increased the air to the engine (don't know if you have an intercooler) if you have increased the air but not the fuel the EGTs will go down and there will be a slight increase at lower rpms, the addition of more fuel will increase the performance of the engine.
The fuel economy will be related to the long pedal and how your foot pushes on it, in most cases the increase of power will result in the use of it which relates to the fuel milage.
Condition of your injectors is one of the more important factors, the injectors should be tested and repaired around every 100,000-125,000 KM.


Jim
 
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that's quite a list!

Ok, it's an 84 3B with a 5 spd drivetrain. I run 33" tires. My probe is pre-turbo where all the runners come together. The injectors are original as far as I can remember. The 3B was completely rebuilt about 5 years ago. My speedo is old so it's rolled over many times but it would have less than 100k kms since the rebuild. My exhaust is 2.5 " of pipe from turbo to tail, no muffler etc. Oh yeah, and I have 411 gears.
Aaron
 
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no IC

Oh yeah, I don't have an intercooler. My rig works quite well to me so I've never felt the need to intercool. I've always wanted to ask E. Leblanc how he likes his though.
 

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