3b diy turbo question

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That is something I hadn't thought much about. I thought the issue with the heat of the turbo had more to do with heat inside the turbo mechanism and not so much the gas passing through. That is, I thought EGT was an indicator for the 'health' of the engine and closer to the engine the better.

It seems the important thing for keeping the turbo healthy is making sure it has had a chance to spin down before cutting off the oil supply by turning off the engine.

I've also wondered about putting in an auxillary oil pump to move reduce wear on cold start of the engine and allow the turbo wind down with oil pumping on a relay. Anyone done anything like this?

http://www.pre-luber.com/preluberkits.htm:cheers:
 
maybe one from the new lx500

looks like a hyundai terracan .. :eek:

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13bt manifold, ct26 parts...

SO... here's where I'm at with this so far:
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The turbo I'd purchased was the wrong one (from a Supra, not an MR2) but I think I may be able to use the housing with the correct turbo. I have one ordered and will post some pictures when it shows. Any reccomendations for shops/online retailers that sell oil lines?
:cheers:
 
IMHO this is the best way to DIY a 3B turbo. 3bt manifold, and adapter to a T3. There are plenty of T3's with a .42/.48 which seems to be the generally accepted ratio's for the 3B.
http://www.gamesbbs.com/~turbosi/junkyard_turbo_list.html

I'm also going with a custom 2 1/2 or 3" exhaust to get the pipe inside the frame rails.

I'll post my build in the next month or so.
 
more pics

I am adding ac and a turbo at the same time.

I had to relocate the oil pressure sender for ac bracket.

I used a t off the second hole in the oil galley for the sending unit and the turbo oil feed.



The turbo had to be disassembled to position it toward the intake.


The oil pan has a bug welded in for the turbo oil return line.
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I used the oem rubber intake hose, a piece of 2.5" pipe and a schedule 40 pvc elbo to plumb the turbo.

I haven't given up on the inter cooler, but am going to baseline the rig without one.

The oil feed line is a little long, but other than that, I am happy so far with the conversion.

I still need to clamp it all together.

I am sending the truck off to the exhaust shop later this week for a new 2.5" complete system.
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I tried the flipped manifold, with a td04 off a d-50 lasted about 8hours:mad: . D-50's had 2 different turbos I beleive the older ones had the larger tc05. The td04 really seemed to choke out around 2400rpm. Excellent bottom end boost and response.

To know how suitable a turbo really is requires an exhaust manifold pressure gauge as well as a boost gauge.
2:1 backpressure to boost is fine, I tried a small turbo to see how it went, exhaust pressures went to 4:1 (60psi manifold for 15psi boost).
 
It means 30 PSI at manifold for 15 PSI of boost . ? ( thought the best spot . ? )

I can reach 1:1 with my current setup, it only gets there when the exhaust reaches 650 deg C preturbo. 20psi backpressure for 20psi boost.

It hits 2:1 under transient conditions, is roughly 1.5:1 at cruise and drops as load increases and exhaust temps climb.
 
I can reach 1:1 with my current setup, it only gets there when the exhaust reaches 650 deg C preturbo. 20psi backpressure for 20psi boost.

It hits 2:1 under transient conditions, is roughly 1.5:1 at cruise and drops as load increases and exhaust temps climb.

1. I need more gauges ..

2. Did you have a pic of your exhaust manifold presure sender

3. Which it's the best rate or target to reach . ? 1.5:1 . ?
 
1. I need more gauges ..

2. Did you have a pic of your exhaust manifold presure sender

3. Which it's the best rate or target to reach . ? 1.5:1 . ?

My setup is pretty basic. Drilled and tapped into the exhaust manifold opposite to my EGT probe. Fitted a short steel section to that (brass softens and loosens at exhaust temps) then into a brass/copper oil pressure line that's about 1.5m long.
Then to flexible rubber hose to a pressure gauge in the cab.

The length of the line dampens out most of the needle chatter, but I need to put a small restrictor in one of the fittings to take out the last bit of rattle.

It's a compromise as smaller turbos will give higher exhaust manifold pressure but help drivability. Larger turbos will give lower pressures but you lose boost at low rpm's.
I was surprised to see 1:1 from the turbo I am running, I thought it was too small for that, especially with a 2 1/4" exhaust.

I think anything under 2:1 is fine. Over that there's something wrong.
 
That adapter might work but i'd be worried about how high it'd put your turbo up. I think you'd be better off with this one...

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if it's a t3. yes. I thought about an ebay cheapy t3 but in the end I couldn't bring myself to spend the $ on a chinese turbo. I figured in the end a good used garrett or rebuilt one was safer. JMHO. I went to the yard pulled mine and rebuilt it.

Check out spooledmotorsports.com as a alternative to ebay.
 

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