3b diy turbo question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

does know one have a rack screw pic? I have instaled the turbo, and the pyro and on hills i barly seee 600f , i have larger tires coming and need this tuned , hence the reason for instaling a turbo, i am also only running 7.5 psi.

Myles

Myles,
I don't have a pic, but I have seen it in threads before, try searching the diesel section, for turbo or turning up fuel threads, and you will probably find a few pictures.
Cheers,
Deny
 
does know one have a rack screw pic? I have instaled the turbo, and the pyro and on hills i barly seee 600f , i have larger tires coming and need this tuned , hence the reason for instaling a turbo, i am also only running 7.5 psi.

Myles

your pyro is pre or post turbo . .. this make a huge diference in tmp issue.
 
my pyro is in the elbow to the turbo(pre turbo, and the elbow is only 4 inches long. i drove it again , and i was lucky to hit 500
 
update:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=139849

I got a lil side tracked.

The project is now a DIY 3btj62.

I found this really nice rust free 62.

I am transferring everything between the chunks and then adding the turbo.


DOMINO
 
While Mel is on pause doing his swap: after reading most of the current conversation about turboing the 3b, I'm 98% convinced I will give it a shot.

I'm gonna have to go budget on the set up: flip the stock manifold and pull a used turbo out of a bone yard or ebay (if I find a good deal).

Is the Garret common to Chrystler LeBaron, NewYorker, etc., the only or best choice for this install? (I like what I've heard so far about a strait bolt onto the inverted manifold.)

What else do I need to gather before I start taking apart my exhaust? Suggestions on the easiest way to get an EGT sensor in there? (Am I in complete fantasy land that this can be done without fabbing anything? I'm a total newbie and have nothing but hand tools and electronics stuff.)

Thanks
 
I'm also in the process of putting together a turbo set-up. I splurged on the OEM 13BT manifold and some new studs with the torx heads. Then I went to bolt it on and the gasket I had was wrong... turns out there are two 3b gaskets... I posted the part #'s for both in the sticky thread. I have also picked up a ct26 turbo set up that appears to be from a supra (I know, I know). I pulled the turbo from the exhaust flange (the ct26 part I think?) which is a direct bolt on to the 13BT manifold. Now I'm searching for a turbo that I can install, ideally from the MR2, but I've had little luck actually finding one. Are there otehr turbos that will bolt directly on to the 13BT manifold? Where are you guys sourcing the oil lines and elbows? How about the air intakes?
 
Timothy there are nothing much really eletronic in a Pyro .. it's only a sender ( atached to the exhaust manifold ) that you connect to your gauge ( buy both in a kit ) and boila !
 
ylexot,

Go to the top of the Diesel section, and click on the sticky by stone about the Diesel FAQ. then read both the turbo discussion and the homebrew turbo threads, very closely, and you will then be ready to start this project.
Cheers,
Deny
 
drill and tap the ex mani the first place that all cylinders come together, cast manifolds drill really nice and tap even nicer, as for finding ther right turbo , just make a flange to flange adaptor, make it 1 inch wide and instal your pyro sender into it, as for air intake, my stock intake elbow from the 3b throttle body werked mint onto my turbo inlet as i mountwer the inlet to the rear of the truck, it turned out that universal 3 inch cone mounts to the other end with a small pice of metel tube in there to keep it from squishing, this made my air filter right at the top and rear of the engine, no where better for water crossings except snorkle.

i tryed tossing a pic up but the limit is to small, if some one posts a email i will send them some pics to make it clear as day , oh and for oil, buy a double banjo nut from earls (brake parts) to feed another banjo line to pipe or an and make up aline( any line shop can do this, then make a 1/4 inch plate cut out to size of feed and drill and tap for pipe fiting if you do not want to buy a turbo drian feed kit. again i will post picks. took me less then an hour to make feed and drain! i did turbo my truck in just over two days though, oh and open down pipe dumps behine the front tire, it is quiet and no restriction!
 
Thanks guys! Sounds like pre-turbo pyro is pretty straight forward if it is just a drill and tap into the exhaust manifold. If I can avoid it, I'd like to NOT make a custom flange since there seem to be good turbo options that bolt in (or am I still missing something?).

Attatoy: I'd love to see your pics: irrefrangible@hotmail.com

From one of the other threads I got the impression a stock ex mani inverted with turbo interferes with the power steering pump on the 3B. I don't have power steering in yet so it's hard for me to visualize, but I plan to use the ps and ac pumps from my FJ60. Any thoughts?
 
Thanks guys! Sounds like pre-turbo pyro is pretty straight forward if it is just a drill and tap into the exhaust manifold. If I can avoid it, I'd like to NOT make a custom flange since there seem to be good turbo options that bolt in (or am I still missing something?).

Attatoy: I'd love to see your pics: irrefrangible@hotmail.com

From one of the other threads I got the impression a stock ex mani inverted with turbo interferes with the power steering pump on the 3B. I don't have power steering in yet so it's hard for me to visualize, but I plan to use the ps and ac pumps from my FJ60. Any thoughts?

If you put the pyro before the turbo, how would you know if the turbo is cool enough to shut off?
 
That is something I hadn't thought much about. I thought the issue with the heat of the turbo had more to do with heat inside the turbo mechanism and not so much the gas passing through. That is, I thought EGT was an indicator for the 'health' of the engine and closer to the engine the better.

It seems the important thing for keeping the turbo healthy is making sure it has had a chance to spin down before cutting off the oil supply by turning off the engine.

I've also wondered about putting in an auxillary oil pump to move reduce wear on cold start of the engine and allow the turbo wind down with oil pumping on a relay. Anyone done anything like this?
 
I never understood now an intercooler INSIDE a hot engine bay can make much difference. :doh:
 
Isn't the purpose of the intercooler to cool the intake air temperature, thereby increasing it's density and allowing more fuel to be burned per cycle than boost alone? Or am I completely out to lunch about this and the other comments above?

Since the intercooler is after the turbo and has some loss (inefficiency) it would more than likely increase temperatures between the turbine and the intercooler as well as drop the pressure some.
 
I never understood now an intercooler INSIDE a hot engine bay can make much difference. :doh:

I thought it depends .. usually if you place it " inside " top mount, usually you have a hood scop to allow fresh air, pas througt the intercooler ..
 
Yeah, there are lots of places to put the intercooler. My old Volvo had the intercooler in front of the radiator like were some people put auto-tranny coolers. A scoop on an LC would be cool!
 
Yeah, there are lots of places to put the intercooler. My old Volvo had the intercooler in front of the radiator like were some people put auto-tranny coolers. A scoop on an LC would be cool!

tencha-turbo-intercooled1.jpg
 
That is most definitely cool!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom