35's? (1 Viewer)

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spacers

I ran some 1/4" spacers on the front of mine for a while, but I prefer the 1 1/4". Our new uniball upper arms actually clear my 315/75/16 toyos without spacers. I run the spacers mainly just prefer the look with spacers up front, and it clears ok on my truck w/ som minor trimming.

For me...in a perfect world I would like 3/8" front spacers (assuming clearance to the steering knuckle can be retained) and none in the rear. The biggest issue I have is with spray by from the tires onto the body from my existing 1" being outside the fender area. And at 3" of lift I've never felt I needed to increase the track width to provide enhanced stability due to lift.
 
I ran some 1/4" spacers on the front of mine for a while, but I prefer the 1 1/4". Our new uniball upper arms actually clear my 315/75/16 toyos without spacers. I run the spacers mainly just prefer the look with spacers up front, and it clears ok on my truck w/ som minor trimming.


Randy: What is the effective increase in track width compared to stock (stock...without spacers) with your new UCA?
 
uniball a-arms

Who's randy? Im carl, but to answer your question. The track width is not changed, this is not possible unless you change uppers, lowers, steering, cv axles, etc. The Uniball arm is made of chromoly DOM tubing and is lower profile than the stamped factory arm, thats where the clearence comes from. They use a 1" uniball that is placed to run more level at ride height on vehicles with 2-3" lift. Also allows more droop than factory ball joint. We have been developing them for several months, and I finally installed the final product on mine with some fox remote shocks a few weeks ago. They use a missalignment adapter that has a taper adapter built in, so they are 100 percent bolton. Frontend aligned perfectly. I worked with a company that builds prerunners and competition baja trucks, for the design. I will get more info on here and our website soon.

Randy: What is the effective increase in track width compared to stock (stock...without spacers) with your new UCA?
UPPERARM SMALL.jpg
 
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For me...in a perfect world I would like 3/8" front spacers (assuming clearance to the steering knuckle can be retained) and none in the rear. The biggest issue I have is with spray by from the tires onto the body from my existing 1" being outside the fender area. And at 3" of lift I've never felt I needed to increase the track width to provide enhanced stability due to lift.


Ah, I don't have that issue since I only have 275/70-16s! But that is a good point.
 
I was thinking 4.88's+37" for '03+ would be the ticket...gets you back to near stock final drive ratio.
I think the stock final drive ratio is optimal for a stock vehicle. When you add 1000lbs to your rig, more aerodynamic drag because of lift, more rolling resistance from the MT tires that are also 6" taller and 35lbs heavier, I'd want slightly lower gearing (numerically higher). Better acceleration and less strain on the engine/transmission.
 
Who's randy? Im carl, but to answer your question. The track width is not changed, this is not possible unless you change uppers, lowers, steering, cv axles, etc. The Uniball arm is made of chromoly DOM tubing and is lower profile than the stamped factory arm, thats where the clearence comes from. They use a 1" uniball that is placed to run more level at ride height on vehicles with 2-3" lift. Also allows more droop than factory ball joint. We have been developing them for several months, and I finally installed the final product on mine with some fox remote shocks a few weeks ago. They use a missalignment adapter that has a taper adapter built in, so they are 100 percent bolton. Frontend aligned perfectly. I worked with a company that builds prerunners and competition baja trucks, for the design. I will get more info on here and our website soon.


Freudian slip...I meant Carl!

Looks good!
 
Derek, did you have 18's on the '04-then switched to 16'' ?

thanks


Oops, sorry, another Freudian slip. I have 275/70-18s, i.e. 33" x 10.5" tires.
 
If I bought the stuff to do the arb/4.88 change for the front and rear diffs, who could I trust in Texas to install it all?
 
gearguywb, 4.88's + 35's + 5speed auto would be really nice! Has anybody else done that yet? You might also want a speedo correction box.

I was thinking 4.88's+37" for '03+ would be the ticket...gets you back to near stock final drive ratio.

I think the stock final drive ratio is optimal for a stock vehicle. When you add 1000lbs to your rig, more aerodynamic drag because of lift, more rolling resistance from the MT tires that are also 6" taller and 35lbs heavier, I'd want slightly lower gearing (numerically higher). Better acceleration and less strain on the engine/transmission.

What about using the 4.3 in combination with the 5spd??? More specifically...

1) 5spd + 4.3 + 33"
2) 5spd + 4.3 + 35"

Is that kind of change noticeable/worth while (assuming you are putting in lockers and regearing anyways) since the 5spd already has lower gears than the 4spd? Is there any advantage to it being a bolt in 100 part verses using the combination 80 and other parts? I realize 4.88s would be lower across the board, but is there a trade off there with your higher gears in the transmission ( ie highway cruisability)?
 
Gears

Make sure you get all of the correct parts? We typically stock all of them. Thats the first thing, just make sure who ever does it REALLY understands it. Thats one of the reasons we sell complete 3rd members too. We have done this numerous times, and I actually have run my 4.88's going on 3 years now.



If I bought the stuff to do the arb/4.88 change for the front and rear diffs, who could I trust in Texas to install it all?
 
Make sure you get all of the correct parts? We typically stock all of them. Thats the first thing, just make sure who ever does it REALLY understands it. Thats one of the reasons we sell complete 3rd members too. We have done this numerous times, and I actually have run my 4.88's going on 3 years now.

I haven't bought anything, just discussing it all thoroughly here before I spend any money on stuff I don't need.

So I could buy a complete rear 3rd member with all the modifications, arb locker, 4.88 R&P gear set etc ready to go and hand it off to someone like Toyota to install it? What about the front diff?
 
What about using the 4.3 in combination with the 5spd??? More specifically...

1) 5spd + 4.3 + 33"
2) 5spd + 4.3 + 35"

Is that kind of change noticeable/worth while (assuming you are putting in lockers and regearing anyways) since the 5spd already has lower gears than the 4spd? Is there any advantage to it being a bolt in 100 part verses using the combination 80 and other parts? I realize 4.88s would be lower across the board, but is there a trade off there with your higher gears in the transmission ( ie highway cruisability)?


I have a 5 speed, so I think it really doesn't matter, the 4.88's are probably needed to compensate for the weight of the tires etc, as well as a fully laden 100 for expeditionary travel.....
 
I need a new avatar. I better go buy some batteries and a computer cable for my camera at walmart to change out that pic....
:grinpimp:
 
You're killing me Kell! That's it, I am off to walmart.... :grinpimp:
 
Learn to multi-quote, you post padder!!! Mostly, we're just tired of seeing your FJC avatar! :p:)
 

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