35s vs 37s

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I've been planning on putting chromoly axles and birfields on sometime soon, and do you think 4.56's would be enough?

It's all about how much suckage you'll be able to handle. You could get away with 4.56s but if you're already going through the expense I personally would go no less than 4.88 with 37s. I didn't want to regret not getting enough gear so I went with 5.29s. Along with that I did Longfield's but kept the stock axles in the rear and also upgraded the knuckle studs and hub studs.

And don't be afraid to clearance the housing, it really isn't much I had to take off.
 
Closest to stock you can get with 37's is to go with 5.29's, on 35's it would be 4.56's. Quite a few threads out there.

The main reasons people who run 37's don't run 5.29's are that you have to clearance the housing on the front axle and they were notoriously weaker. A recent thread has debunked the claims of them being weak and, to me, has proven that it's all about how well they are set up.
I would only use the 37s for off-road use I would be using 35s the other times, and thank you so much for the info.
 
Closest to stock you can get with 37's is to go with 5.29's, on 35's it would be 4.56's. Quite a few threads out there.

The main reasons people who run 37's don't run 5.29's are that you have to clearance the housing on the front axle and they were notoriously weaker. A recent thread has debunked the claims of them being weak and, to me, has proven that it's all about how well they are set up.

i didn't have to clearance anything to run 5.29s
 
I am having the same debate right now...35 vs. 37. I will be installing a 4 inch slee kit as well as part time kit. probably do new low range gears while i am in there. front axle will have RCV chromoly's, rear will be stock for now.

i am thinking i will go 35's to start and see how it goes. at this point i do not want to be cutting out lots of the fender to stuff 37's. how much articulation are you giving up going to 37's and is there any way to quantify the difference in parts I will start breaking?
 
The main reasons people who run 37's don't run 5.29's are that you have to clearance the housing on the front axle

Not sure where this info came from but it is not correct. I didn't have to clearance anything when going to Nitro 5.29s. Stock 8" e-locked housing
 
Either I'm doing something wrong or my truck is secretly re-geared. I wheel with a bunch of 1st gen yotas on 38s-41s most with 5.29 or 4.88s and twin sticked, whenever they drive my truck they say since it's automatic I don't need to re-gear just left foot brake more. Well after listening to them for so long I have done just fine left foot breaking to keep a slow controllable crawl. I am on 40s with stock gears (as far as I know) speedo is waaay off. I use to daily it like this and normally around 13-14mpg city/hwy. I have no problems pulling up hills at 70 or passing people. I feel like I need 5.29s and marlin crawl gears but why doesn't my truck feel sluggish? Feels like my lx470 on 35s did and my 1999 100 series on 33s.
 
Geez...... On 40s I'd have to assume the gears were changed before you owned. Maybe your butt dyno is faulty.
 
Not sure where this info came from but it is not correct. I didn't have to clearance anything when going to Nitro 5.29s. Stock 8" e-locked housing

It's coming from people like me. There are some of us who do have to clearance the housing.

This is where it was hitting.

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Closest to stock you can get with 37's is to go with 5.29's, on 35's it would be 4.56's. Quite a few threads out there.

The main reasons people who run 37's don't run 5.29's are that you have to clearance the housing on the front axle and they were notoriously weaker. A recent thread has debunked the claims of them being weak and, to me, has proven that it's all about how well they are set up.

Nope. Bunch of us around here run 4.88s over 37s and we all are +/- 2 mph from multiple GPS units at 70 mph on the freeway . John
 
Nope. Bunch of us around here run 4.88s over 37s and we all are +/- 2 mph from multiple GPS units at 70 mph on the freeway . John

I stand corrected. it seems I was referencing some old threads I had saved in the back of my mind. Here's some calcs to back it up.

Assumptions:
Both are FZJ's
Both are in 4th
Both are turning 2500 RPMs

31.2" tires with 4.11's your will be travelling at 73.8 MPH

37" tires with 4.88's you will be travelling at 73.7 MPH

I should have run the calcs before spouting off from memory.
 
I run 37"s with stock diff gears, like the rubber overdrive on the road, don't tow so :meh:. Didn't like the low range so much, solved that with Marlin transfer gears. Stock axles/birfs, lots of wheeling, good to go.
 
35's are so 1990's.... Haha :D
 
how much more stuff is a guy going to break on 37's vs. 35's? I have RCV going in up front but not plans for the rear axle yet. Do you feel that with 37's articulation is more limited with a 4 inch lift?
 
Are any of you running 37x12.5x17 on a stock bodied FZJ80 with a simple 2.5" OME medium lift? I'm currently a dialed in, dead straight, 4+ caster on Delta arms 35x12.5x17s (4.88 nitros) setup and wondering how much I'll enjoy or regret going upsized for the visual delight. The idea of grinding and cutting into my jalopy doesn't seem worth the effort, but coveting rather salaciously the added sidewall visuals. 35" rubber on 17" alloy just isn't the right ratio in my eyes.

Mine is a strict LA urban jungle crawler. Thank you!

293E7B3A-8E43-4D44-B17E-0EF93624B245.jpeg
 
Are any of you running 37x12.5x17 on a stock bodied FZJ80 with a simple 2.5" OME medium lift? I'm currently a dialed in, dead straight, 4+ caster on Delta arms 35x12.5x17s (4.88 nitros) setup and wondering how much I'll enjoy or regret going upsized for the visual delight. The idea of grinding and cutting into my jalopy doesn't seem worth the effort, but coveting rather salaciously the added sidewall visuals. 35" rubber on 17" alloy just isn't the right ratio in my eyes.

Mine is a strict LA urban jungle crawler. Thank you!

View attachment 2464601
I'm sure it's possible on 2.5" but not without cutting. That said, you could probably do it with very minimal cutting and hide it very well, especially if its just for DDing, you wouldn't have to flex it out all the way and make sure there isn't 1/3 of a mm of tire rub at full flex like so many do on here lol.

FWIW I agree completely about the appearance...from a visual standpoint, 35s are a drastic improvement but 37s seem to fit our gargantuan wheelwells the best. I'm not sure the modest visual improvement would be worth it considering the sacrifice in drive-ability on a truck that is purely a pavement pounding DD but maybe other guys with 37s on their truck can comment better on that than I.
 
Are any of you running 37x12.5x17 on a stock bodied FZJ80 with a simple 2.5" OME medium lift? I'm currently a dialed in, dead straight, 4+ caster on Delta arms 35x12.5x17s (4.88 nitros) setup and wondering how much I'll enjoy or regret going upsized for the visual delight. The idea of grinding and cutting into my jalopy doesn't seem worth the effort, but coveting rather salaciously the added sidewall visuals. 35" rubber on 17" alloy just isn't the right ratio in my eyes.

Mine is a strict LA urban jungle crawler. Thank you!

View attachment 2464601

If you don’t want to trim you will probably rub at the lower back edge of the front fender opening when you turn. You could move the axle forward a bit, but if you aren’t into trimming you probably aren’t into that idea - and you’d probably rub the bumper.

The trimming required to make 37s fit for on road use is very minimal - don’t let it scare you away. But if you absolutely don’t want to trim stay with 35s.
 
Are any of you running 37x12.5x17 on a stock bodied FZJ80 with a simple 2.5" OME medium lift? I'm currently a dialed in, dead straight, 4+ caster on Delta arms 35x12.5x17s (4.88 nitros) setup and wondering how much I'll enjoy or regret going upsized for the visual delight. The idea of grinding and cutting into my jalopy doesn't seem worth the effort, but coveting rather salaciously the added sidewall visuals. 35" rubber on 17" alloy just isn't the right ratio in my eyes.

Mine is a strict LA urban jungle crawler. Thank you!

View attachment 2464601
Your 80 looks great as is. I’m sure you enjoy good handling, and, I can tell you from experience, 37’s will induce a very noticeable loss of acceleration and a general increased sluggishness all the way around. You can change the wheel/tire ration by going down to 16” wheels.
 
Your 80 looks great as is. I’m sure you enjoy good handling, and, I can tell you from experience, 37’s will induce a very noticeable loss of acceleration and a general increased sluggishness all the way around. You can change the wheel/tire ration by going down to 16” wheels.
Agree with the above.

You've got a clean, healthy look. 37's are cool, but the other thing to keep in mind is braking. We all tend to focus on power, but stopping the 80 is already a task; 37's will compound that.
 

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