35s vs 37s

[COYS]

Agree with the above.

You've got a clean, healthy look. 37's are cool, but the other thing to keep in mind is braking. We all tend to focus on power, but stopping the 80 is already a task; 37's will compound that.

but what if the 37s are 10lbs per corner lighter gents?

 

[Cruiserhead05]

but what if the 37s are 10lbs per corner lighter gents?

that would change things

 

[COYS]

that would change things

Correction, the KO2s in 37x12.5s are about 6lbs per lighter per tire compared to 35x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers which are a more durable hybrid tire, thus the weight difference (10-ply tread).

I've found both to be about equal in terms of noise which was a pleasant surprise as the Nittos have a more aggressive MT looking sidewall.

I think I just have to give 37s a try. I can always fall back to 35s if any regrets. One thing I will not do is change my current suspension setup to make 37s work. It's just too dialed in to sacrifice for better looks.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Correction, the KO2s in 37x12.5s are about 5lbs per lighter per tire compared to 35x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers which are a more durable hybrid tire, thus the weight difference (10-ply tread).

I've found both to be about equal in terms of noise which was a pleasant surprise as the Nittos have a more aggressive MT looking sidewall.

I think I just have to give 37s a try. I can always fall back to 35s if any regrets. One thing I will not do is change my current suspension setup to make 37s work. It's just too dialed in to sacrifice for better looks.

Again, If you go to 37s on a 2.5" lift you will absolutely, definitely rub the back edge of the front fender opening when you turn UNLESS your front axle has been pushed forward. There's just no way around it.

Depending on what you have for caster correction the easiest thing to do would be to buy some of these FJ80 / FZJ80 RAM and bolt them on, especially if this 80 pulls road duty. They would push your axle forward and correct your caster. I bet you could sneak 37s in there at that point without trimming.

 

[COYS]

Again, If you go to 37s on a 2.5" lift you will absolutely, definitely rub the back edge of the front fender opening when you turn UNLESS your front axle has been pushed forward. There's just no way around it.

Depending on what you have for caster correction the easiest thing to do would be to buy some of these FJ80 / FZJ80 RAM and bolt them on, especially if this 80 pulls road duty. They would push your axle forward and correct your caster. I bet you could sneak 37s in there at that point without trimming.

I run the Delta 4" arms. My caster is at +4 right now both sides. I am not going to touch my current sus setup.

Thanks for pointing out. Def something to think about.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I run the Delta 4" arms. My caster is at +4 right now both sides. I am not going to touch my current sus setup.

Thanks for pointing out. Def something to think about.

Do the Delta arms move the axle forward? You might be ok, if so.

 

[COYS]

Do the Delta arms move the axle forward? You might be ok, if so.

Probably more maintains the stock wheelbase. I know for a fact that on my truck the caster correction plates shortened it where I rubbed exactly at that rear of front fender location we're talking about.

 

[Broski]

The Delta arms move the axle forward, so you shouldn't have a issue with the rub in the back. 37s are the sweet spot for a 80, the wheel wells look like they were made for them. Performance and breaking well suffer some.
In the Concrete Jungle breaking will be the biggest issue.
JMHO

 

[BlueCruiser84]

The Delta arms move the axle forward, so you shouldn't have a issue with the rub in the back. 37s are the sweet spot for a 80, the wheel wells look like they were made for them. Performance and breaking well suffer some.
In the Concrete Jungle breaking will be the biggest issue.
JMHO

Well there you have it. If you can live with the braking it sounds like clearance at the rear of the fender won't be an issue. Delta arms for the win!

 

[COYS]

I went ahead and ordered Cooper AT3 XLTs in 37x12.5s so I guess I'll find out soon enough for my ih8 rare workload which is a stock bodied, DD type 80 with zero wheeling aspirations + nil appetite to cut/trim into anything if possible.

To summarize, I'm currently running 35x12.5s that are 7.45lbs per corner heavier than the 37s. I also wouldn't mind seeing a few less revs at hwy speeds which may be another benefit going 37s on 4.88s.

Stay tuned!

 

[COYS]

Well there you have it. If you can live with the braking it sounds like clearance at the rear of the fender won't be an issue. Delta arms for the win!

I just eyeballed the clearance from tire to front fender rear with the wheels turned. I've got about 1" of clearance on 35s. The 37s are ~.8-.9" longer radius. It's gonna be close.

 

[baldilocks]

I run the Delta 4" arms. My caster is at +4 right now both sides. I am not going to touch my current sus setup.

Thanks for pointing out. Def something to think about.

Those sweet dela arms push the axle forward to where it was pre lift so I’d bet that you can run a 37 with out trimming especial since your 80 is a pavement pounder.

 

[sco00ter]

I went ahead and ordered Cooper AT3 XLTs in 37x12.5s so I guess I'll find out soon enough for my ih8 rare workload which is a stock bodied, DD type 80 with zero wheeling aspirations + nil appetite to cut/trim into anything if possible.

To summarize, I'm currently running 35x12.5s that are 7.45lbs per corner heavier than the 37s. I also wouldn't mind seeing a few less revs at hwy speeds which may be another benefit going 37s on 4.88s.

Stay tuned!

Excited to see how this turns out. Also want to hear your feedback on the feeling of 35 vs 37 differences and if you can notice the 7.45 per corner weight savings.