35's...and Mountain Biking (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Markuson

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 15, 2008
Threads
70
Messages
11,600
Location
San Diego via all over-
Short Version:

**What's the most simple route to non-rubbing 35's?**

Rationale:
So I've resisted the idea of 35's because it seemed to require a lot of fiddling.
Always seemed unnecessary to me...

Mountain Biking Connection...
...As an avid mountain biker with both 27" and 29" wheels over very rough terrain, it's actually pretty amazing what a huge difference a 2" larger tire does on the trail. You roll right over rocks on a 29er that really "bite" on a 27 because the angle is changed enough to roll over. The difference is obvious while climbing rough stuff, and just as noticeable on rough downhilling. This has me reconsidering 35's.

I've read and read and read here on the forum, but I've never found a truly straight-forward description of the simplest way to effectively accommodate 35's.

I realize a gear swap might be needed for towing, etc. and I'm open to that...but I'm hoping to hear from those who have had success WITHOUT a total swap-out of front end (like Tundra everything, etc.).

I'm on Rock Warriors, and BP-51s with SPC UCA.

Can any of you paint a clear list of **required** mods--as opposed to **all possible** mods in order to effectively run 35's?
 
Last edited:
You have what you need + Slees swaybar relo bracket and enough height on you COs.

I considered 35s. Talked to Christo and decided I didn't want to deal with what the bracket did to enable 35s. Just a bit past that threshold we all have. That may change some day but I'm super happy with our 34x10.50s om RW as it stands.
 
You have what you need + Slees swaybar relo bracket and enough height on you COs.

I considered 35s. Talked to Christo and decided I didn't want to deal with what the bracket did to enable 35s. Just a bit past that threshold we all have. That may change some day but I'm super happy with our 34x10.50s om RW as it stands.

Thanks for responding.

I've been assuming 34's would be my next move...but ask hoping to avoid later regret.
You mention not wanting to deal with "what the bracket did." What was that issue?

Also, which 34's are you running, and are they truly 34? It that a Toyo?
 
Last edited:
I have:

Lift
SPC UCA
Slee KDSS relocation bracket
35x12.5xr17

Rubbing on front mudflap, and inner fender liner near side step molding.
Otherwise, I am all clear. YMMV

@Willy beamin 's Slee bracket messed some stuff up on his linkage, but I have not had any issues. Willy, was it determined that it was the shop's fault? What did you have to do to get it fixed?
 
Once you get use to looking at 35's you'll be pondering 37's....I guarantee it. Just because.
 
I have:

Lift
SPC UCA
Slee KDSS relocation bracket
35x12.5xr17

Rubbing on front mudflap, and inner fender liner near side step molding.
Otherwise, I am all clear. YMMV

@Willy beamin 's Slee bracket messed some stuff up on his linkage, but I have not had any issues. Willy, was it determined that it was the shop's fault? What did you have to do to get it fixed?
I haven't bothered fixing it yet. I have a bent in place sway bar end link that's not causing any issues or noise. I've had it looked at twice.
I purchased a new one from @beno just to have on hand should this one fail. Nothing else besides that. Not sure what caused it to bend into its new spot. Could have been that way when I bought the truck or could have been the relocation brackets adding stress. It's worked for over a year now with no problems. I'm not concerned.
Christo told me that my sway at bushings may diminish quicker than intended but those are cheap. It's a fair trade off in my eyes. No safety concerns. Maybe mine was / is special.
 
IME, there is very little that can not be driven on/over/through with 33" tires that 35" tires will do that much better. Comparing a 33" to a 37"... there the gains really begin to show.

On the other hand... One wouldn't expect that a 29" mountain bike tire would change much over 27"...but it truly does. This is why I bring it up. Two inches makes a huge difference on a bike...so I do wonder.
 
a you are determined to do a 35" I will say it looks a helluva lot better in the wheel well than a 33" tire. perception is reality
 
a you are determined to do a 35" I will say it looks a helluva lot better in the wheel well than a 33" tire. perception is reality

I think I may end up looking for a TRUE 34"... as that would be almost 1.5" over my current "33s" (really only about 32.6 or 7).

For the life of me, I can't understand why manufacturers who label tires "35" are often 34.5...or even farther off.
 
The 285/75/17 Toyo ATIIs measure 33.5" installed. 65K mile life, look good, and don't make too much road noise below 70...
they are heavy...66 lbs of rubber and steel. you can feel it when trying to stop. Plus the spare will fit in the stock location.
 
The 285/75/17 Toyo ATIIs measure 33.5" installed. 65K mile life, look good, and don't make too much road noise below 70...
they are heavy...66 lbs of rubber and steel. you can feel it when trying to stop. Plus the spare will fit in the stock location.

Ya, was looking at the Toyo you mention or Trial Grapplers.
Can't seem to figure out which tires are TRULY a 34...as in...not a half-inch smaller than listed. This "fudge factor" seems to be all over the map.
 
On the other hand... One wouldn't expect that a 29" mountain bike tire would change much over 27"...but it truly does. This is why I bring it up. Two inches makes a huge difference on a bike...so I do wonder.

Your analogy is great, and I understand it fully. It's more like the 26" vs 27.5"... a little improvement, but not huge. Now compare the 26" to the 29" much more noticeable... BUT... when you put the hammer down on long climb, you will feel that 29". I've been in and out of mountain biking long enough to have ridden Cannondale's old 26/24 combo when it came out... that was all about the the 26" front rolling easier over things and the 24" rear giving the rider more go. Mountain bikes are in their element for far longer than your Cruiser will ever be.
 
More recently, biking has added a 27.5 to the mix...but the 29 is a true 29, as I just measured. So 26, 27.5 and 29ers are all available. 27.5 seems to be aimed at 29er nay-sayers...but they aren't selling well. Every single one of my riding buddies have switched to 29 after riding with (or trying) my bike. Truly helpful, especially as a cross-country bike over extremely rough terrain at both climbing and high speed...and increasingly preferred on "all-mountain" bikes too.

I still have my Cannonade from 1991... Now ride a carbon fiber 29er I've been beating the snot out of for four years. When gears are built for the 29, it climbs like a dream & no sensation of rotational weight. Amazingly, my full suspension 29er only weighs slightly more than mo NO suspension Cannonale from '91...which was considered an ultra-lightweight in its day. Crazy what kind of weight has been shaved over the years.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for responding.

I've been assuming 34's would be my next move...but ask hoping to avoid later regret.
You mention not wanting to deal with "what the bracket did." What was that issue?

Also, which 34's are you running, and are they truly 34? It that a Toyo?

KO2s so really a touch under 33 for my load. I wanted sidewall and am more concerned with my driving than the cm gained there with 35s :). If 37 were doable that would have been a different story for us.
 
No experience with the 200, but on the 100 you need at least a 1/2" body lift to avoid rubbing no matter how much suspension lift you are adding. Also don't overlook width and wheel offset. From what I understand a 285/75R18 is easier to fit than a 315/75R16 (and looks way better IMO).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom