That's what does it alright! Of course I could just slow down...but what fun is that?
I need to build a pre-runner/desert rig and just go at it...so the LC lasts longer
35" tyres on landcrusier
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That's what does it alright! Of course I could just slow down...but what fun is that?
I need to build a pre-runner/desert rig and just go at it...so the LC lasts longer
Take the front end of a Raptor and slap it on.
I think the real debate here is the original question is asking the question is referring to 35 inch tyres and the back and forth for the last couple pages is about tires. This should clear things up
You missed some of my words? Like these:
"Look, I know that when the front lower arm is on it's bump stop that the truck's at the same height as a stock Cruiser. I get this."
I must have passed Physics.
Read it again. Especially the part about the suspension stroke. Christo says the same thing on his next post. If you still don't understand, then no, you didn't pass Physics.
edit: I see you've admitted to the possible answer, that the Sway-A-Ways are possibly preventing full up-travel, which would explain it (essentially the same thing as lowering your bump-stops, i.e. changing one of the limiters on the suspension stroke). Also is not a ringing endorsement of the SAWs, IMHO... Anyway, let us know if you can confirm this hypothesis. Thanks!
edit2: Also, Christo's explanation of the smallish size of BFG ATs could also go a long way toward explaining it...
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Are there any Ih8mud members around you that can be there and take the pics for you, so we have someone to back up your findings. In all honesty, I hope you are right, but looking at the pic, I find it hard to believe your fender won't get hit hard if you turn. I almost guarantee you hit hard if you where going faster than a crawl.
I made my front tires smack the fender wells doing about 60-70 offroad in utah....ripped all the clips for the liner out....both sides!
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This thread reminds me why I didnt get 35's...It's because it costs so much
This thread reminds me why I didnt get 35's...It's because it costs so much
True dat
Where are the pics of your 305s stuffed and turned???
Slee brought up a good point, that I never thought of. These pictures of 2000UZJ and myself show why I wont be doing 35s. We were not at full lock or full compression in these pictures. I have stock 275/70/16 Michelins, 2000UZJ has 295/75/16 BFG ATs. In these situations, 35s would be very close to, if not eating my fender. I know these arent the greatest pictures of being compressed and at full lock.....but they're the best ones I could find.
The top two pictures are from our first run up to Amicalola back in June of 09.........too bad the bull dozers ruined all the fun for us
Why is it that every thread of this nature in the 100 section always ends up like this?
Why can't people just accept the inherent design limitations of the 100 series (from the factory)?
Or, give Slee a blank check or.....import a 105?
I've wheeled with Spressomon a lot and he has done everything an 80 series has done.
Amando did the Rubicon with his 100 series (with a lot of NorCal help), but it was done without an SAS.
Why can't people just accept the inherent design limitations of the 100 series (from the factory)?
Or, give Slee a blank check or.....import a 105?
I've wheeled with Spressomon a lot and he has done everything an 80 series has done.
Amando did the Rubicon with his 100 series (with a lot of NorCal help), but it was done without an SAS.
I am sure thats the real answer, here in Australia we give them (blank checks) to Darren McRae, these guys do lots of 35" Projects and refine them over time, the most successful are using 18" Procomp wheels with 19mm offset and Fox long travel suspension and real 35" tyres.
Its hard to find a picture at full compression but in these 2 you can see I still have a fair clearance on the front as I unweight the left.
I am sure thats the real answer, here in Australia we give them (blank checks) to Darren McRae, these guys do lots of 35" Projects and refine them over time, the most successful are using 18" Procomp wheels with 19mm offset and Fox long travel suspension and real 35" tyres.
Its hard to find a picture at full compression but in these 2 you can see I still have a fair clearance on the front as I unweight the left.
Wow! Can you post more side shots of your rig and expand on the suspension set up?
I have the set-up done by Darren McRae here in Aus also, new UCA's, Fox Long Travel Shocks, new torsion bars, bushes etc etc I'm just running the standard cruiser alloys (17x8) with Mickey Thompson MTZ's, a bit of inner mudguard trimming (the plastic) and mud flap removal, wound the steering bumpstop out a little and it seems to work nicely.
I only have these 2 shot's so far, hoping to get some good tracks in when I head North mid October.
I only have these 2 shot's so far, hoping to get some good tracks in when I head North mid October.
Yes, the squish. They are designed to absorb impact. Albeit, they are really firm if you push on them, but they do squish a little with the weight of a vehicle hitting them.
What did they do to keep the big tires from ripping up the front fender while turning?
I would think the lift in the front end should overcome any issue, I am new to modifying 4x4's so if I'm wrong take it easy on me.
Measuring the distance from the bottom of the rim to the lip of the mudguard I have 85 - 90mm more than standard...so fingers crossed.
I have not had opportunity to any serious wheeling, there aren't too many decent tracks close to Adelaide that I have been able to find, thats why I'm looking forward to getting into the Flinders Ranges in 6 weeks........I'll be able to comment more then, maybe Muddy can give a better insight.
Measuring the distance from the bottom of the rim to the lip of the mudguard I have 85 - 90mm more than standard...so fingers crossed.
I have not had opportunity to any serious wheeling, there aren't too many decent tracks close to Adelaide that I have been able to find, thats why I'm looking forward to getting into the Flinders Ranges in 6 weeks........I'll be able to comment more then, maybe Muddy can give a better insight.
I believe he mentioned trimming the inner plastic mud guard liners and adjusting the steering stops...
Steering stops have nothing to do with the tire catching the fender. Neither does the plastic wells. IF they bumpstopped the front then it would help however they'd lose the added travel the UCA's provided.
OK...I'l take a picture for you.
But note...looking at a 100 when totally compressed (even your pic shows this), your bottom part of the lower arm is almost perfectly parallel to the ground. I have a ton of pics already like this.
More smoke and mirrors where are the pictures showing only your 100 can run 35's with no clearance issues turned FULLY compressed?
