35 in tires on 100 series. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

You will be fine. Beat down the pinch weld and trim/reform the plastic bulge in front of it. I've been running on and wheeling 285/75/17 (33.8") tires for over a year now. I do have spacers. There has been zero rubbing.
 
Have you regeared your 100 yet? I was gonna wait till next year because i want to add Arb air lockers, that would probably be at least 15,000 miles (mostly street) until i regear it. Is that a bad idea to wait that long?
 
Continuing the conversation in this thread. I think it is interesting that there are quite a few folks that are referring to 35" tires like the width/section width of the tire has no impact on the "fit."

I personally will be running the Kenda Klever 35x10.5/r17 as the narrower tire will hopefully allow less adjustment post install with proper wheel diameter, width, offset and backspacing. Ya'll should try and stuff an 11" tire on the rear of a BMW M2 or VW Golf R .. the conversation and specification impacts between scrub radius, wheel offset, suspension drop, stiffness, camber, tire width, tire manufacturer, stretch .. etc. will make this groups' heads spin and explode haha! It is hard to disseminate between people with opinions and people with facts developed from real world experience.

Regardless, thanks to those who have contributed to help me reach my final assortment for my 100 series. My M2 photo below is an example of a street/track setup with proper scrub radius, camber, contact patch, etc. It is amazing to me folks on here aren't even mentioning the impacts of maintaining proper scrub radius when changing tires, wheels, suspension set ups.

J7BZyfd - Imgur.jpg
 
Ya'll should try and stuff an 11" tire on the rear of a BMW M2 or VW Golf R .. the conversation and specification impacts between scrub radius, wheel offset, suspension drop, stiffness, camber, tire width, tire manufacturer, stretch .. etc. will make this groups' heads spin and explode haha! It is hard to disseminate between people with opinions and people with facts developed from real world experience.
I'm a road/track guy as well. Everything you talked about certainly matters but to a lesser degree for off road vehicles. Folks here aren't taking Turn 1 at 120 mph. They are not usually driving at the absolute limit of adhesion. They are happy if their LC goes down the freeway straight. Scrub radius takes a back seat to flopping their LC. 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 series only have one alignment adjustment.... front Toe. Tire stretch? They don't want that.... they want the opposite. They want to keep the tires from de-beading.

For those who are hyper-sensitive about it all, I suggest stock or 1" lift height and 33's. Be happy. :cheers:
 
I'm a road/track guy as well. Everything you talked about certainly matters but to a lesser degree for off road vehicles. Folks here aren't taking Turn 1 at 120 mph. They are not usually driving at the absolute limit of adhesion. They are happy if their LC goes down the freeway straight. Scrub radius takes a back seat to flopping their LC. 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 series only have one alignment adjustment.... front Toe. Tire stretch? They don't want that.... they want the opposite. They want to keep the tires from de-beading.

For those who are hyper-sensitive about it all, I suggest stock or 1" lift height and 33's. Be happy. :cheers:

I guess you're right, I am being hyper sensitive to it all but very calculated! For me, its the "well, why not try to match the specs as closely as possible if not exact."

Your last sentence is completely correct though, if anyone is nervous, uncertain, concerned - 33's are plenty of rubber for these trucks and a safe play that has been repeated by plenty of folks on here and out in the real world.
 
@jackhossross You probably know this already but by going from a 31" tire to a 35" tire, you'll have changed the scrub radius. (More negative than stock). This is not something we normally deal with track vehicles as the tire diameter remains relatively close to stock.
 
@jackhossross You probably know this already but by going from a 31" tire to a 35" tire, you'll have changed the scrub radius. (More negative than stock). This is not something we normally deal with track vehicles as the tire diameter remains relatively close to stock.

Yes - the diameter certainly impacts scrub radius, we can combat it with the other specs that drive that angle (camber and offset are the two easiest to adjust) to maintain the same scrub radius on our 100 series trucks, but it is difficult.

Going to a larger tire while holding all the same specs elsewhere will increase negative scrub radius.
 
Hey Hoser, don't I remember you from the 100 series forum when I had my hundy?
You have a GX now??
 
@r2m Yeah, I remember you. I’ve had The Hundy for almost 20 yrs… an 80 and a bunch of 70’s. Never had a GX, though I wouldn’t mind one!
 
@r2m Yeah, I remember you. I’ve had The Hundy for almost 20 yrs… an 80 and a bunch of 70’s. Never had a GX, though I wouldn’t mind one!
The GX is the cats meow! Ha-ha-ha!
HUGE upgrade from my wife's and my '98 hundys we each had. We got rid of hers with 285,000 miles and mine with 265,000 miles and both still ran great. Just the paint and leather was all burnt out from age, wet surf gear, etc.
My wife and I did a 9 day trip to Main from our home in So. Cal. just to find a lobster dinner in the height of COVID. Our GX is awesome. Even doing 1,000 mile days!
If you have the budget and an extra space in the driveway, I highly recommend. 👍
But again, I'm sure most anyone/everyone on this forum feels the same way.
 
The GX is the cats meow! Ha-ha-ha!
HUGE upgrade from my wife's and my '98 hundys we each had. We got rid of hers with 285,000 miles and mine with 265,000 miles and both still ran great. Just the paint and leather was all burnt out from age, wet surf gear, etc.
My wife and I did a 9 day trip to Main from our home in So. Cal. just to find a lobster dinner in the height of COVID. Our GX is awesome. Even doing 1,000 mile days!
If you have the budget and an extra space in the driveway, I highly recommend. 👍
But again, I'm sure most anyone/everyone on this forum feels the same way.

I would love to have gone the GX470 route, but two kids and two dogs forced my hand to the larger platform.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
All works well, need to reshape or relocate my washer fluid bottle. Stock suspension and 35’s with 20mm body lift. Stock bump stops. Zero offset … and yes I had to do the pinch welds. Rear tires tuck under fender at full articulation just barely and the fronts are about a ¼ inch clear at full compression under load. I might add another 10 mm to the front and graduate down in 3mm increments so it would be 1.5” front and 1” rear body lift. Not a huge fan of body lifts but with IFS I didn’t want to give up travel.

Kuruza.jpg
 
All works well, need to reshape or relocate my washer fluid bottle. Stock suspension and 35’s with 20mm body lift. Stock bump stops. Zero offset … and yes I had to do the pinch welds. Rear tires tuck under fender at full articulation just barely and the fronts are about a ¼ inch clear at full compression under load. I might add another 10 mm to the front and graduate down in 3mm increments so it would be 1.5” front and 1” rear body lift. Not a huge fan of body lifts but with IFS I didn’t want to give up travel.

View attachment 3168326
Damn … this makes me really want to do this.

What all does it truly entail? Did you need to move any mechanical parts?
 
All works well, need to reshape or relocate my washer fluid bottle. Stock suspension and 35’s with 20mm body lift. Stock bump stops. Zero offset … and yes I had to do the pinch welds. Rear tires tuck under fender at full articulation just barely and the fronts are about a ¼ inch clear at full compression under load. I might add another 10 mm to the front and graduate down in 3mm increments so it would be 1.5” front and 1” rear body lift. Not a huge fan of body lifts but with IFS I didn’t want to give up travel.

View attachment 3168326
Question: Exactly what is the O.D. of your "35" tires? People call my 315/70R17 a 35" tire but actual diameter is 34.4".
On my '98 Hundy I built my own body lift because, same as you, I wanted 35" tires but was maxed out on what suspension travel available for the 100 series LC's.
Here's one link to my lift:
And here, start at post #13: larger tires without lift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/larger-tires-without-lift.826882/#post-9494891
Yes, that's me in my old 100 series.
You will probably need a couple of buddies, floor jacks/jack stands to do this in your driveway. But it's not too bad of a project.
 
Question: Exactly what is the O.D. of your "35" tires? People call my 315/70R17 a 35" tire but actual diameter is 34.4".
On my '98 Hundy I built my own body lift because, same as you, I wanted 35" tires but was maxed out on what suspension travel available for the 100 series LC's.
Here's one link to my lift:
And here, start at post #13: larger tires without lift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/larger-tires-without-lift.826882/#post-9494891
Yes, that's me in my old 100 series.
You will probably need a couple of buddies, floor jacks/jack stands to do this in your driveway. But it's not too bad of a project.
Specs for the tires are 34.6" I measured them unmounted (pencil against the wall technique) with 45psi at 34.9" so pretty close. At 80psi they would likely be a mm or two taller. They are a little less than 10" wide and SUPER quiet. The same tire in 35x12.50 measures 34.8" so likely about 4mm taller but MUCH wider. OH, and I referenced your above posts when doing this! Thanks for all the info BTW.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom