Hi everyone. I'm new to this site. I just got a 2000 Lexus LX. I plan on doing a lift and larger tires. I'm getting rid of hydropneumatic suspension and going with OME. Though my plan is to fit as large a tire as possible with minimum lift. I am thinking I'll have to get new 16 inch rims with less back space and I am willing to shave/trim bumper, maybe even some metal cutting if not too excessive. Does anyone know what minimum lift would be for 35 or 37 if I am willing to do minor/moderate body work? Thanks in advance for all your input.
larger tires without lift
- Thread starter Bluesky
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Just a heads up on first hand experience.
I run 35" BFG M/T's on 17" wheels (for the last 2.5 years).
My suspensions:
With this setup I do not use any extra length bump stops nor do I rub on anything full compression, lock to lock.
The only modification I needed to do was hammer down the pinch weld in the rear of the front fenders and remove the plastic wheel well protection. I did not need to do any trimming of any kind.
Do a search on "r2m" and you'll find some pic's of my rig and how it looks.
Things to be aware of:
I'm not saying it's impossible to bolt 37" tires on your rig, but the cost to do it right is usually prohibitive for most people on this forum. If someone on this forum was able to do that, they would be on the 200 series forum instead.
I run 35" BFG M/T's on 17" wheels (for the last 2.5 years).
My suspensions:
- Front - 2.5", new torsion bars, upper control arms, front diff drop kit, longer travel shocks
- Rear - 2.5", new coils, longer travel shochs
- Also made my own 1.75" body lift for a total lift of 4.25"
With this setup I do not use any extra length bump stops nor do I rub on anything full compression, lock to lock.
The only modification I needed to do was hammer down the pinch weld in the rear of the front fenders and remove the plastic wheel well protection. I did not need to do any trimming of any kind.
Do a search on "r2m" and you'll find some pic's of my rig and how it looks.
Things to be aware of:
- 37" tires will put an extreme amount of stress on your drive line components, especially the front diff.
- My set up is more on the extreme side of what you'll find on this forum. You will be hard pressed to find "serious" info for 37" tires.
- Your gas mileage will SUCK, you will be getting gallons to the mile with 37" tires.
- Your performance will SUCK, you will constantly be chasing gears on any grades or hills with 37" tires.
- There are not any gears large enough to re-gear your front and rear diff's to compensate for 37" tires. Your speedo will always be off and you'll still have power issues on hills and grades.
I'm not saying it's impossible to bolt 37" tires on your rig, but the cost to do it right is usually prohibitive for most people on this forum. If someone on this forum was able to do that, they would be on the 200 series forum instead.
There is no off-roading that you need 37 for that 35 won't do considering that 35 pretty much max out your stock drive line components strengths. 37" will roll easier over more obstacles, and grenade your front diff along with cv,s and say bye bye to ball joint lifespan... O and the rack. 35"s used aggressively will wear that stuff out quick as it is. If your are going to do trails that require 37" than you need a lot more than big tires... You need an SAS. Or a 105 platform... I am planning on running 35", I have the same 2000 470 as yours and I just completed installing the OME and slee UCA kit w diff drop... Most guys on this sub forum don't wheel hard enough to require 37's and honestly unless you have $15k and epic fabricating skills your 100's never going to be up to the task of running trails that are that demanding. I have an SAS tacoma locked with dual ultimate transfers that I climb 8ft vertical dry waterfalls with on 35' km2's so a trail that would require 37"s is out of the question on an IFS torsion bar rack steering setup. Your best off IMHO with staying 35's on a body lift and locking the difFS get some armor gears and done. Your 100 will stay together more or less and you will dominate any average trail and maybe even some crawling... Btw to me crawling requires gears AND transfer gears... Bouncing around with too hi of gearing is not crawling it's called 'I brought the wrong tool for the job'... And any of the guys that swear by the ATRAC system well compared to fully open I guess it's getter,, but in no way is it even close to having lockers. Idk if those guys have ever driven a correctly geared and locked truck but it's night and day. So... Depending on your philosophy of use and budget I would say post the pics when you get your 35's or post your stories of how you blew up your s*** with 37". Or mall crawl the s*** out of your 37" and bask in the glory. Hope that helps!!
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Just a heads up on first hand experience.
I run 35" BFG M/T's on 17" wheels (for the last 2.5 years).
My suspensions:
I have also re-geared my front and rear diff's and my transfer case for proper trail performance and highway performance.
- Front - 2.5", new torsion bars, upper control arms, front diff drop kit, longer travel shocks
- Rear - 2.5", new coils, longer travel shochs
- Also made my own 1.75" body lift for a total lift of 4.25"
With this setup I do not use any extra length bump stops nor do I rub on anything full compression, lock to lock.
The only modification I needed to do was hammer down the pinch weld in the rear of the front fenders and remove the plastic wheel well protection. I did not need to do any trimming of any kind.
Do a search on "r2m" and you'll find some pic's of my rig and how it looks.
Things to be aware of:
37" tires will work if you are only planning on using your rig as a mall cruiser and soccer transport, but not any serious offroading.
- 37" tires will put an extreme amount of stress on your drive line components, especially the front diff.
- My set up is more on the extreme side of what you'll find on this forum. You will be hard pressed to find "serious" info for 37" tires.
- Your gas mileage will SUCK, you will be getting gallons to the mile with 37" tires.
- Your performance will SUCK, you will constantly be chasing gears on any grades or hills with 37" tires.
- There are not any gears large enough to re-gear your front and rear diff's to compensate for 37" tires. Your speedo will always be off and you'll still have power issues on hills and grades.
I'm not saying it's impossible to bolt 37" tires on your rig, but the cost to do it right is usually prohibitive for most people on this forum. If someone on this forum was able to do that, they would be on the 200 series forum instead.
Hey r2m what gearing are you running with 35's if any? I think I'm gonna go 4.88 seems like a good match and should take some stress off the diff at least...
And did you make your BL out of that industrial poly plastic that I heard other guys hav used?? (Forgot the name of that material, similar to plastic cutting board I think)
- Thread starter
- #9
wow, thanks guys! I see that everyone is going for the 35 inch max. That's perfect. I'm glad to see someone already fitted a 295/75 r 16 without a lift and no rubbing. I don't think I would do that since it may rub under articulation, but glad to know it can be done. Does anyone recommend I lift with a tire like a 295 first and then lift suspension as needed? Is there anything I'm not thinking of?
My wife's '99 LC runs 285/75 16's (BGF A/T's) completely stock with no rubbing of any kind, even on the trail.
- Thread starter
- #11
LOL! Yeah, I'll try it and post pics for everyone's entertainment!37s? No lift? Should be fine
- Thread starter
- #12
All very good points. Thanks! That's great advice. One more question! Do you know of anyone running 35" without lift, and just trimming the fenders, bumpers, and mud flaps? And either wheel spacers or new wheels with offset (preferred way).
These are the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr to make my body lift:
Part No. Description
- 91280A680 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 200mm Long
- 91280A670 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 160mm Long
- 90576A118 Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Class 8, M10 Screw Size, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Wide, 10mm High
- 91100A170 Zinc-Plated Steel Oversized Flat Washer, M10 Screw Size, 10.5mm ID, 30.0mm OD
- 9900K31 UHMW Polyethylene, Static-Dissipative UHMW Polyethylene, Color: Black; Temp Range: -20º to 180º F (2" O.D. x 24" long)
I used my drop band saw to cut 2" lengths of the UHMW. I did not take into account the deflection of the saw blade so after cutting the pucks, I had to turn them down on my bench lathe. I wound up with a net 1.75" height for my body lift pucks. Add that to the already installed 2.5" suspension lift, that gives a total of 4.25". I also had to make a small shift extension for my transfer case shifter otherwise it would buried in the console. That is what the pictures of that round shaft with threads is.
Search Spressoman's posts for a diagram of where all the bolts are and the correct length. I owe Spressoman for the info. I just added a little more height to the body lift so I didn't have to add longer bump stops.
**Thanks Spressoman**
The suspension lift is from Just Differentials:
Part No. Description
(N/A) Bump It Offroad differential drop kit
JTOUCA-TLC100 UniBall upper control arms
BILUZJ100F Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (front)
BILUZJ100R Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (rear)
OME303001 Landcruiser 100 torsion bar, 98-07 (Petrol only)
2866 Coil, L/C 100SER IFS Rear
I've added some pics of about how my rig looks now. Since that picture, I've raised the front to be level with the rear. I know that one picture of my LC looks like the front wheel is rubbing on the rear of the front fender, but it is the camera angle. No rubbing, honest.
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@r2m, if you don't mind me asking, how much were f/r 4600's from JD? tnx
Hmm. I don't recall, but if you give them a call they'll quote you a price.
Nice r2m
@r2m, I did, unfortunately they don't carry them anymore. Just curious, 4600 billies are the shocks of the standard height variety. I thought 5100 series are the longer shocks needed for up to 2" lift. Are 4600's working fine on a lifted truck?
I had 35s on mine with no lift for a while,didn't take it off road but no rubbing on the street. The trick on these rigs is keeping the tires inside the wheel wells. I have 2 1/2 in lift with stock wheels and 1 1/4" wheel spacers. The problem is when you lift them the track width narrows and the wheel spacer are needed to correct that. But when the suspension compresses the track width get wider so the tire no longer compresses inside the wheel well. My front tires will contact the inside edge of the fender hard compression but had not hurt a thing.
35s, stock
I've never had an issue so far. I have to admit, I have not yet taken them to the very extreme, but for over 2 years on mild trails, big dips and highway, I've never had an issue.
Benc, here's a pic of mine with 35" BFG M/T's before my body lift.
i like the stance, but when I hit dips, I'd get a little rub.
i like the stance, but when I hit dips, I'd get a little rub.