35 in tires on 100 series.

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315 is reeeealy wide!
The reason I am asking is if i keep my truck after the trip, I am going 285/75/18 , which according to research here is a sweet spot for 35s, not too wide, so as not to strain the front end components ,,,, whats ur take?

FWIW, after a 100k miles or more with multiple sets of 285/75R18s I bent two wheels while running 22-ish PSI (outer lip of wheels...). I moved on to 305/75R18s (Cooper STMAXX) and appreciate the extra outer edge wheel lip protection as well as the better flotation in the ruff stuff when aired down.

And as @wildsmith discovered and shared with us many years ago a 1.5"-2" body lift really helps with tire interference issues especially when longer travel suspension is integrated.
 
Anybody have a problem with their driver side front tire rubbing on their windshield washer fluid bottle when turning hard right with over sized tires?? Mine does?
 
Do I need pinch weld mod or diff drop or wheel spacers if I dont have fenders? If I need spacers which size do I need? I have an LX with slee 1.5" lift kit. I am debating between KO2 and KM3

I'm not sure how long you are thinking of running without fenders but maybe this photo below will help you understand that the interference will still be there for the pinch weld. The diff drop is for CV angles, so this is up to your lift. The wheel spacers, when used for function rather than looks are to push the tire away from the control arms and allow different wheels to clear the hub (and possibly install supplied caps with certain wheels). So the only interference that would be eliminated without fenders is the outer lip on compression.

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I'm not sure how long you are thinking of running without fenders but maybe this photo below will help you understand that the interference will still be there for the pinch weld. The diff drop is for CV angles, so this is up to your lift. The wheel spacers, when used for function rather than looks are to push the tire away from the control arms and allow different wheels to clear the hub (and possibly install supplied caps with certain wheels). So the only interference that would be eliminated without fenders is the outer lip on compression.

View attachment 1705653

Sorry I meant inner fender liners.
 
Sorry I meant inner fender liners.
Be careful without liners - in Chi town the salt and winter debris get caught in the fender and will rapidly rust your rig.

Although if anything does get by your liner it gets stuck in no mans land.... It's hard to win with salt!
 
Do I need pinch weld mod or diff drop or wheel spacers if I dont have fenders? If I need spacers which size do I need? I have an LX with slee 1.5" lift kit. I am debating between KO2 and KM3

Yes you’ll need to beat the —— out of the pinch weld.

Wheel spacers will keep the tires from rubbing your UCAs. Go with the 1.25” Slee front spacers and 1” rear Tundra spacers so you don’t have the tears sticking out more.

BFG tires run small, so you might not have to do much to get them to fit without rubbing like an undersexed monkey.
 
I drove my 100 today with stock size Michelins and worry that 35s will ruin handling more than I'd like. With the ARB kit vehicle drives kind of sporty.
 
I have run about a half dozen wheel and tire combo's on my 99. Right now I am on 35's (BFG KO2 35x12.5-18's) and I have to say, they have given me more grief than benefit. I wheel a lot out here in Colorado and I have not encountered a trail that needed more clearance than a good set of 33's. The best size I have run to date was the 305x75-18 it is roughly a 33.5"-34" tire with about a 12.5" width. I plan on selling my 35's soon to drop back down to this size. Since bumping up to the 35's (which in all honesty look great on the 100) I have had more problems with stuffing the tires, wear on the front end components (caster angle, LCA ball joints, bearing maintenance etc) and now bumping into the fender lip on the body that I just don't think they are worth it. I am finding that there are so many little details to get the 35's to really work, that it is hard to justify to gain the extra 1/2" of overall clearance. Things like:

  • Body Lift to clear the fender when at full compression.
  • UCA with more caster adjustment are big $$$
  • Increased wear on front end components
  • Spacers
  • Pinch weld mod/fender plastic trim... just further from stock.
  • Active or modified bumpstops
Your mileage may vary but @spressomon said it best when he said in his build thread, something to the effect of "the 100 does best with the smallest tire size that will get you through the terrain you want to travel..." (paraphrase) but man this is so true and Dan has run his 100 about as hard as ANYONE out there.

For me, I personally think that 34" tire is about as big as you can go in the 100 before you slip down the slippery slope of major mods to get them to work properly. A 33" tire will perform really well for these big trucks in all but the roughest high clearance trails.

Now if this is a mall crawler and you want 35s for looks (can't blame ya) then they will fit fine, but once you start playing in the rocks and on trails that tax your suspension the 35's in my humble opinion have been more hurt than help.
 
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Then, just another example of "slippery slope" stuff, once you beat the pinch weld down you need to cut the lower bulge in the plastic fender liner. Then, since this opens up the perfect funnel for dust to be thrown up into the engine's air intake cavity...you'll be buying air filters by the case (and carrying one or two with you on longer dust ridden trails). Then you'll need to get a snorkel (for dust).

Be careful out there :D
 
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... once you beat the pinch weld down you need to cut the lower bulge in the plastic fender liner...

Speak for yourself, a heat gun and a steel putty knife will mold that plastic liner with ease.
 
Looking for the same answer - did you ever get clarification?

I've never had that problem but alignment specs have a ton to do with where the wheel is placed in the wheel well opening. Aggressive positive caster would amplify this.
 
Resurrecting this post, I currently have a 2007 LC100 with the diff drop, Slee 2.5 OME lift with front UCA and would like to run some 285x70x18 on the stock wheels. On the net it states they have an overall diameter of 33.7"s high and 11.5"s wide. I know i will need some spacers for front and rear as well as the pinch weld mod plus cutting some fenders. I am currently running 275x70x18 Duratracs and they are 33.2" high, and 11"s wide. Will they fit with just those mods listed, or does the slope get slippery?
 

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