30 dollar paint job (1 Viewer)

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i dont know if it has been mentioned but when you are spraying stop after each stroke and you dont have spot with more paint. in other words dont weave back and forth, go one direction

like so

------>------------------------->-------------->
----------->--------------------->---------------->

not
_______________>_____________________>____
_______________<____________________<____)
(________________>________________>

if that makes any sense
 
Wow, a post where lots of people chimed in.

Well I will preface the paint job by saying I paid 100 bucks for the body and Frame. It was sky blue and had seen really better days. No shine left in anything on it. There are some rust through spots in the back bed. and I cut away both outside rockers. Got a few areas to patch and thats it.
I sanded everything down with, 50 grit. Yes 50 grit biatch. I had about 40 sheets left over from refinishing some hardwood floors. Took off some of the top coat in areas, then the reddish primer coat, then to bare metal in others. Its sky blue right now. I will post up some befores and afters. but Literally I just wanted a uniform color that looks decent. This will be a trail rig. all of the tips are great though, and some I never would have thought of.
I foolishly have spent my cruiser money on rebuilding axles, and suspensions, tires etc. So looks are not the biggest concern.
Heres what I have to work with.
 
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Imho

Rattle-can paint rules for a trail rig. Easy enough to touch up, or repaint a section. I used a paint that was available in liquid as well as spray cans, so I have a quart I can use as 'touch up' paint, for chips and such.

Some day I may own a vehicle I won't trash off-pavement, and get it done 'right', but for now I like the mental freedom a cheap and easily-replaced paint job that doesn't look too bad.
 
I was told once to wet sand between coats. A buddy said it looked as good as a spray gun job. Havent tried it yet though.
 
Hossdog said:
As for painting rims.....just buy the rock-crawlers from 4Wheel Parts since they are like $40 each.

I was looking at those exact rims. those could work for me.
 
Im going to wetsand my rig once the paint hardens. Then polish it up with a buffer. That will be in like a month or so though.
 
For spraying the hood and doors, you might want to have a pan of hot water to warm up the cans when they get start to get cold from spraying for extended times. When the cans get too cold, they loose some pressure and the spray pattern suffers. If you get several cans, you could alternate between them. It would be ideal if you could get someone to shake and dry the cans before you use them. Make sure they have the same lot number so the colors match. Try to lay down a line, then slightly overlap with the next line, creating a wet finish. Don't stop until the panel is completed. Don't worry (too much) about a few runs, you can wet sand them with a block and polish it later. I

Have fun!
 
Does anyone use spray can clear coat after your nice spray can paint job? I'm thinking about using some after I do my home paint job.
 
WES1977 said:
Does anyone use spray can clear coat after your nice spray can paint job? I'm thinking about using some after I do my home paint job.
yep, krylon does
 
To the top, Case of Ace Safety blue came via ups yesterday. The cap looks pretty close If my memory is correct to Smurf blue. I MIGHT be able to do the paint this weekend. However I can't roll it out of the garage, since, well, the front axle is torn down. I have some hood hinges that are original which I will do the side by side on. for yall.

Will keep you posted.
 
Will do, I got to tape off the dash pieces. Luckily most of the sandig is done. I will look into the wet sanding part of it.
 
Wet sanding would help to smooth out your final finish. Just remember you are removing material by sanding.

Use a super high grit 1500-2000 and use a lot of water on the surface, make sure to use a wetsanding pad, you can leave visable "finger grooves" even with 2000 grit.

One last think, dont get your paper any where near creases or sharp edges, you will sand off the paint in no time flat, then you need to start over... dont ask how I know this one :)

Post up some pics when you get them!

Rezarf <><
 
Wet sanding and super duper high grit. Should I mention that I used a cutoff wheel to remove the remains of the outer rockers on both sides. Or that I started with 50 grit removing rust spots the size of my fist? I am going to sand some more down. Bondo a few dents. Maybe quarter size, prime this beast and hit it. I will think about wet sanding after the first coat is on. Need to see how it looks. Wet sanding blocks, and paper and the like are adding to my 30 dollar paint job. I got the tub and frame for a hundred bucks dudes!
I am foolishly blowing money on rebuilding the axles, and getting the lights to work most of the time.

I will post up some photos. It should be interesting.
 
surfpig said:
My favorite color scheme is the sage green/alpine white two tone (mine was originally blue/white, it's now WHITE/WHITE, me no likie),nial
all white does suck...tooo boring! my newest was originally sage/white repainted all white. i rattle canned it in krylon satin sage green and satin ivory white....i'm very pleased
P6130002.JPG
 
Ever think about buying a gun from harbor freight and renting a compressor? It sounds like you're shooting for professional results. Me personally, I got sick of the crappy red oxide primer (that was 7 years old) but was holding up fairly well. I bought a few cans of OD green Krylon at walmart and spray bombed it. I didn't mask anything off (exterior) I didn't even rinse off the dirt or dust, basically i did everything you're not supposed to do when you paint. Then I took it out on the trail for pinstriping. It looks good from far, but it's far from good. Eventually when I do a frame off rebuild I'll strip it down to bare metal and have it done right by someone with more patience then me.
 
Oh I have a compressor, Two of them actually. I think the thread had two points. 1. Does Ace Safety Blue actually look like smurf Blue, and 2. Can someone like me. an over weight, well whatever, paint the outside of a 40, for around 30 bucks? The tub I started with was basically written off until I found it. To be proper I should replace the rockers, replace the passenger floor pan, and replace the rear channel and quarters, Anyone seen the price of steel lately? The rig itself is not and probably never will be a show truck. There are enough Heeps to take care of that. As much as I would like to spend 30 grand and do everything possible to it, not going to happen. I love those people who have 40 K into parts and the reciepts to prove it and cant sell their truck for less than half that. This truck will be built for moderate trails. So I am budgeting money for axle rebuilds. Disk brakes all around, lockers, winch, and tuning the 2F just enough so that no matter how dumb I get on the skinny pedal I am not prone to breaking things, I am the type of person that will wait for the winch to cool down before breaking a birf.. I would rather putt putt by or winch by some dumb ass with more money than brains as he is sitting in the muck at dusk trying to figure out why that 300 hp v8 just snapped all the components of the driveline. I have seen it happen.

So rant over, I am going to paint this biatch this weekend. Will get some before and afters, and post em up.
 
Sorry, I haven't been taking my ridalyn (actually I've never been perscribed it, but I should be!) and I missed the original context of your thread, I thought we were just talking about low buck paintjobs. My bad. Good luck though.
 

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