30 dollar paint job

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30 dollar paint job PICS

Well, I just ordered a case of Ace hardware Safety Blue spray paint. Allegedly it is pretty darn close to smurf blue. We will see. I plan on painting the outside of the cruiser, and probably the dash. I will post up some pics when I get a few moments free. Anyone have any rattle can tips for me.
 
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Apr 1, 2004
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Nice...when I did mine, my friend (auto body guy who just shook his head when I told him about the spray cans) said to go diagonal...then cross the other way.

In an "X" sorta thing...that way you wouldn't have any lines...I have also heard of people using different spray tops...for something with a better spray pattern...

Here is my $20.00 paint job...

 

Pinion

 
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Considering I just finished spray bombing my 40 I will suggest you do a few things:
1. Spray Booth. Use a garage and vacuum the floors and walls. Mist the floor with water to keep any dust down. Use a respirator.

2. Sand the body with 220 grit.

3. Take the time to remove as much trim as possible and take the extra time to do a really good job of masking things off. Dont forget to cover the tires.

4. In the spray booth, be sure you have really good lighting. You will be able to see the paint build better that way. My last coat I was sure that it was sprayed on just to the point you can see it gloss up. It takes a little bit to figure it out, but its walking a fine line between getting a run or not. Be sure that the whole panel is glossed, any mist that strays onto another panel may take away from the gloss.

5. Try to check between coats to see if any spots need to be sanded down.

6. Before you paint you can get some skim coat (Bondo in a tube) and fill in minor divots and whatnot in the paint. Sands off like talc, so its easy work.

7. Dont sand down to bare metal, and if you do try and hit it with some decent primer. When you are sure you are done sanding, push the rig into the booth, set everything up, and then use a tack cloth to take off all the dust from sanding. Go over the whole rig twice.

8. After you finish painting, allow a long time (days and days) before bumping or really touching the paint. Dont put any trim on yet.

9. After the paint has hardened, wet sand with ~1-2000 grit to knock down any high spots or runs.

10. I'd say wait at least a month before washing/polishing/waxing it.
 
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Rustoleum Harbor Blue is close. Sprayed a couple spots on the 40 and I can tell but I think that is due to mainly the Harbor is gloss where the smurf is flat. Also 35 years of sun tends to fade the paint a little. Good Luck. Would be interested to see Harbor next to Ace Safty.
I got my Harbor Blue at WAL-MART.
You think you could buy a can and spray half of something with Ace and half with harbor. :) ;) :cool:

Good Luck with it. Do not have any tips really. I like to use airplane stripper to take it down to bare metal. Pretty fast work of it. POST SOME PICS. Before and after.
 
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My .02 has to do with the type of type which won't help you since you have already ordered yours. IMO the new style of blue tips are the best. They clog less and put out a finer mist.
 
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could you do this, can spray paint and can primer, to a set of wheels. I was thinking about taking a chrome pair and making them black rather then spedning 500$. will it work/stick if they are aluminium?
 
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I would prime for sure. I may not take the time to do a kick ass job on the project (given it is a paint can job), but I would spring for the time and money for primer at least.
 
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On my last FJ55 I ruffed the body up to take the crap off the paint. Then painted it forrest green and ivory. That was like 7 years ago. My current FJ55 I just washed the rig and then started spraying. I think its like Colorado Red and Ivory. I used a cross pattern and then went side to side, top to bottom. Came out nice. Did the same thing on the current 55... still working on the paint as i have been doing other things.
 

REZARF

 
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YOu only need to prime the body if you dont already have the metal covered with paint. Primer helps the bond between the metal and the final topcoats of paint. It also acts as a sealer for the metal, but you should really use a light coat of epoxy spray on all raw metal surfaces... but we are talking rattle can here. I would suggest that you spend your time and effort on prepping the rig and not worry too much about primer if it currently has paint on it.

BTW, ACE Safety blue does not match all that well with the smurf blue. It will get by but it will look noticeably different. I tried the ACE safety blue on a section of my smurf blue fj40... didnt match all that well at all.

Home made spray booths are not hard to make either, drop cloth (plastic) hanging from the cieling and tucked under some 2x4's on the floor, a pair of box fans sealed up with duct tape with furnace filters in front of them. Wet everything down lightly. Run the fans for several days on end, and you will get a TON less dust in your final coat than you would imagine.

I know a dude who paints serious hot rods with this jacked up set up and I am always amazed at his results... color sanding makes a huge difference as well.


Just .02

I would love to see some before and after shots! LONG LIVE THE SMURF BLUE RIGS!

REZARF <><
 
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REZARF said:
YOu only need to prime the body if you dont already have the metal covered with paint. Primer helps the bond between the metal and the final topcoats of paint. It also acts as a sealer for the metal, but you should really use a light coat of epoxy spray on all raw metal surfaces... but we are talking rattle can here. I would suggest that you spend your time and effort on prepping the rig and not worry too much about primer if it currently has paint on it.
good tips in general! yea, go to Home Depot and get a roll of plastic and some 2x4's cheap and make your garage a paint booth for a few days. just do not smoke out there if you do that :)

I wonder, would all of this be the same if you wanted to totally change the color of a rig rather than match existing rigs?

as for the primer, I gues my bad. I thought it helped the paint stick to any surface better than just raw paint. helped absorb the paint in and made a better coating so it would not flake off if you did not do as good as a job prepping the body. f what you say is true, then yes, I would spend the time prepping then.
 

jikser

 
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If you do use primer in places where there is metal, get etching primer. It has an acid base which adhears to the metal. Provides a much better bond than krylon. IMO buy a cheap spray gun, and compressor, and use good polyurethane. You'd be supprised how cheap you can get away with it, and have a real tough paint job. Course it's easy to repair rattle can.

Les
 

Pinion

 
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I think they also can "can" some of the leftover paint as well as long as you arent using a hardener. That way you have some extra paint in a spray can for touch ups.

I left the primer and paint from the factory on there. That stuff is really durable, no sense in reinventing the wheel.
 

3pits

 
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You can go to Sherwin Williams and get their industrial non catalyst epoxy paint in rattle cans,, they can do custom colors or just the stock colors, dont know if it comes close to the orig color or not.

It only costs like 1$ more to can it, and the paint is more $ than Ace, but it is even better than the Rustoleum "professional" brand, super hard, only a tinge softer than the catalyst,, look into it, follow the directions above they are "perfect" for what you are doing
 

REZARF

 
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as for the primer said:
wantatlc-

You are right about the advantages of primer. It does what you stated above. But if you have factory paint and primer still there after 30ish years, it will stay put.

Just prime all the bare metal with an eching primer, the sherwin williams filler primer is awesome. But with a rattle can paint job you don't need to prime the entire rig, unless you are block sanding the rig straight, and start to need a guide coat... but again, it isn't a required step.

Rezarf <><
 

nuclearlemon

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rattle can rules...four of five of my cruisers are rattle canned...i've found the krylon satin ivory and satin sage is beautiful for a pig...and, of course, i'm very fond of the tidepool green ;)
 
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Rattle canned my 71 FJ40 with the ACE Hardware olive drab FLAT camo......and it kicks ASS. Never had so many compliments!! The biggest thing I learned was not to paint when its crazy hot outside. Makes the paint dry all strange and any overspray just screws the rest up. Just purchased some Mil-Spec Dark olive Drab (vietnam era) paint to shoot it myself.....so we'll see if it stands up to the rattle can job! As for painting rims.....just buy the rock-crawlers from 4Wheel Parts since they are like $40 each. Dont buy the American Racing ones with the stupid red and blue pinstripe on em though!!! Good deal for the money unless you have bead-locks, then just shoot em up with some black! Good luck!
 
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