Builds 2UZFE swap into FJ80 - building - in progress (2 Viewers)

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What transmission are you going to run with the VVTI engine? I think it is at a750f 5 speed auto.
 
stock FJ80 trans.

Trying to make this swap as simple as possible and repeatable. That way I can have pre-made mounts, and a bellhousing/flex plate adapter. This swap would of course require welding, and modified drivelines, but everything else should be bolt on custom parts.
 
stock FJ80 trans.

Trying to make this swap as simple as possible and repeatable. That way I can have pre-made mounts, and a bellhousing/flex plate adapter. This swap would of course require welding, and modified drivelines, but everything else should be bolt on custom parts.

Up until now I was really excited with the conversion but now you have two critical parts that are not available over the counter. By using the 100 trans everything is available just about anywhere. Why did you nix the idea of using a 100 series trans?
 
stock FJ80 trans.

Trying to make this swap as simple as possible and repeatable. That way I can have pre-made mounts, and a bellhousing/flex plate adapter. This swap would of course require welding, and modified drivelines, but everything else should be bolt on custom parts.

Just FYI this will not work as the VVTI engine was not offered with a 4 speed tranny. This will cause some codes.

The a343 (if that is what you have) does not have a line pressure solenoid. Line pressure is controlled by a throttle valve driven by a cable connected to the throttle plate. Your VVTI tundra engine is drive by wire.

You will need a transmission from a 2003-2007 LC100 to work with that engine. Wiring is a little more of a issue when running a Tundra harness and ECU.
 
Damn fatkid. Nice points.
 
And I can simulate a solenoid. So it will work just fine and not throw any codes.

So I also learned a few things today:

1UZ and 2UZ have different mount patterns.(I have to re-do my mounts now)

VVTI 2UZ's are drive by wire. Not too difficult to get working, but just more work.

I also hope I can use one of my mid sump 1UZ oil pans on the 2UZ. That will solve much of the underneath clearance issues.
 
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here it is inside the bay. I need to put on the SC400 pan before it will go in all the way. I will do that probably tomorrow night and finish up the mounts.

2uz_in.jpg
 
I will be using a filter relocation kit.

With the SC400 oil pan I will not need to move the panhard, and clearing the diff will be much easier. I will still need to modify the steel part of the pan slightly, but only ever so slightly, much less than the stock pan.

I am using a 2005-2006 4x4 ECU, although now that I think about it, a 2wd may have been a better option. Unfortunatly the harness was cut on this motor. However I do have a 2002 harness that I can use, I just hope the ecu connectors are the same. If the plugs are the same, I will run a small seperate harness for the VVTI and throttle, and any other sensors that are required.
 
anti theft is easy. I just need to get a transponder sensor, and then get a key programmed. I have done this before. Same way remote start works. You actually have to put a key in a box....oh, that just reminds me. I have an RX300 with a remote start, but the remotes got lost and I removed the key. I can use that sensor...SWEET! Or any other remote start that are set up for coded keys.
 
IIRC until 2002 Tundras don't have a transponder or security feature on the key just plain key .. this feature come with the VVIT engine ( ECU / harness ) ..

Actually the pre VVIT 2UZ just need a few wires to run .. thought the VVIT are bit more complicated.

With the starter cilinder and the complete harness .. just simple swap on a Non VVTI engine ..

nice project .. keep us posted ..
 
Well a bit of bad news. The motor I got was bunk. I am trying to work out warranty info with the seller. Turns out, the front of the head is pretty much broken off. Cams and head are destroyed

Good news is, the mounts are completely done and with the SC400 oil pan, clearance for the diff and panhard are not a problem. Now I just have to wait for a new motor. Meanwhile I will work on the exhaust.

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they are sending me out another motor next week. Shouldn't set me back too much, plus I get a free motor out of it with a bad head.
 
What would cause damage like that?
 
wow reminds me of when i had a sheared crank in a 1.3 samurai, it was nice running on 2 cylinders
 
front end collision. I think the cam just got tapped a little while it was running, causing things to bind up and break the head.
 

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