Builds 2UZ FJ40 on CUCV's

[John Stw]

Made a small bracket to move the gear shifter linkage connection down some to clear the mount bolts. Hoping the small distance change does not affect the gear selection shifting.

Started on some better welds for frame motor mounts, but ran out of welding wire of course.

 

[John Stw]

Is there a good axle seal kit for a GM Dana 60, like MC's for Toyota's?

 

[John Stw]

Linkage for the rear disconnect completed and the Tundra brake booster and MC installed.

Dropped the drivetrain in and checked the radiator clearance. Found a top radiator hose on my parts shelf that fit just right, but the bottom is going to be a little tougher.

Cut the shifter hole and was able to lift the t-case high enough to have a flat belly, everything from the oil pan back will tuck up in the frame rails. Still need to build a cross member for the t-case.

 

[John Stw]

Worked on the crossmember: 1/2" plate with a stock mini truck t-case mount.
Plan to weld the angle iron to the frame bolt the plate to it with some 1/2" bolts.

 

[John Stw]

Finished with the T-case mount:

 

[John Stw]

Cats are gone and the Underdog Racing simulator ready to take over. Still have to find room for the rest of the exhaust and muffler(s).

 

[ColoCruiserJeff]

This is lookin' sweet!

Glad to see that driveline in there! Very sick set-up!

Jeff

 

[bustanutley]

Are you planning to add some a web to your cross-member? 1/2" plate doesn't have enough section to support half your drivetrain.

 

[John Stw]

Are you planning to add some a web to your cross-member? 1/2" plate doesn't have enough section to support half your drivetrain.

Did not plan on any wed, the plate felt stout.

 

[John Stw]

So, my buddy was able to help me with wiring harness so we trimmed it down to what we needed using the EWD from TIS. Found out that the FJ 40 and Tundra headlight plugs are the same, also the Tundra brake light switch will screw into the 40's mount. Just need to figure out the FJ 40's wiper motor wiring to tie in the Tundra harness.



Put the steering column back in and stuffed the instrument cluster in the dash that still needs some work for a more finish look. Also worked on the air filter and intake, then prepared the battery box to mount where the blower fan use to mount.

 

[fj40duge]

Are you planning to add some a web to your cross-member? 1/2" plate doesn't have enough section to support half your drivetrain.

X2

I agree 100%

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Just read your build very nice any updates?

 

[John Stw]

Installed the stock Tundra transmission cooler and removed the AC compressor, because it was to close to the steering shaft for me.




The new 68" belt for the missing compressor:

 

[John Stw]

Thinking of using the stock Tundra fuel pump by cutting out an outer flange of the Tundra tank and bolt it down with a gasket on the RCI tank. Has anyone done this or know of any issues or concerns doing it this way?

 

[John Stw]

Cut out the tank mount and a 3/4" flange, going to wait to cut the RCI tank for some clarification if it should work.

 

[John Stw]

Finished up the air intake hoses and moved the fuse box down the fender some to make room for the evap canister. Fabbed up a bracket for the canister to slip into that bolts to the fender, which allows the sensor connection and hose connections to be made easily.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Are you planning to add some a web to your cross-member? 1/2" plate doesn't have enough section to support half your drivetrain.

X3, I also used 1/2'' plate for my skid/trans mount... But mine is about 3' wide, not 4" and I still plan on adding bracing when I pull the tranny out to replace it...

I can jack the whole truck up on it and it will balance when you get it right, but it does deflect a little bit...

If you don't brace it and come down on that crossmember, it WILL bend...







And not to bust your balls, but I wouldn't trust a 110v mig for motor mounts or suspension links... I wouldn't even trust a 110v if I were running gas... 110 is nice for tacking or sheet metal, but you need a 220v for anything beyond 1/8" IMHO...

If it were me and I didn't wanna go get a 220 mig, I'd go to Home Depot and pick up a 220v Lincoln "buzz box" (arc welder)... It'll give you plenty of penetration and you won't have to worry about the welds breaking. Plus they're only like $200..

Just get some 6013 rods (easiest to learn on and a good all around rod) practice for a few hours and you'll be good... Plus you'll have the satisfaction of knowing how to stick weld (which is a good skill to have.

Ok rant over... The trucks looking sick by the way!

 

[John Stw]

Only thing welded with the 110v was the motor mounts, all the suspension was done by the PO with a 220v. Any example of some web for the crossmember?

 

[Corwin117]

Awesome build. Cant wait to see it finished.

 

[lenross1]

keep on keeping on