Builds 2UZ FJ40 on CUCV's (1 Viewer)

[John Stw]

Drove the tundra into the shop this morning and did a chop shop job on it. Pulled the drivetrain and wiring harness before loading up the rest to sell for scrap.

FJ 40 pictures by John350Z71 - Photobucket

 

[John Stw]

Got the motor freshened up today with new Asin water pump, thermostat, timing belt with new tensioner, new crank seal, serpentine belt, and valve covers seals.

Swapped in some some 4.7 gears into a mini truck T-case and installed the rear disconnect for front digs.

Then installed the Inchworm Worm Gear prerunner adapter on the trans and ready for the new transfercase.

 

[Bret]

Making some progress!

Be sure to grab the OBD connector, all the shift linkages, VSS amplifier in the cluster, at least that is what we didn't have when we got the motor... depending on how things go they may not be needed though.

 

[John Stw]

Making some progress!

Be sure to grab the OBD connector, all the shift linkages, VSS amplifier in the cluster, at least that is what we didn't have when we got the motor... depending on how things go they may not be needed though.

We stripped all the wiring including obd II, steering column, and AC.


Polished up the trans and t-case some today.

FJ 40 pictures by John350Z71 - Photobucket

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Looking nice.
What is the total length on the drivetrain?

 

[waiting for time]

Subscribed.

 

[John Stw]

Looking nice.
What is the total length on the drivetrain?

Drivetrain = around 70" long
Motor w/out fan= 25"
Trans w/ adapter= 30.5"
Tcase w/ disco= 14.5"
Looks like the twin sticks will fall right near the front mounts for the seats just like a mini truck. The rear dico shifter may need to moved, or fabbed for easier shifting.

 

[John Stw]

Drop the motor into the frame rails today to get an idea for some motor mounts.

PS pulley is to close to the shock mounts, may swap to some shock hoops.

 

[John Stw]

Cut down the stock motor mounts and used some bomb proof mounts in place of the isolators. Bolted the mounts in the drain holes in the 2UZ cast block mounts after making a smooth flat mounting surface. Cut off the shock mounts and cleaned alittle bit more on the frame.
More pics: http://s556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/John350Z71/FJ 40/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ24

Then removed the Bowtie and added a Sombrero to the grill.

 

[Isotel]

that looks..............



pretty good! Nice work on the grill

 

[HODGES]

looking great john. cant wait to wheel with ya again.

 

[Sam Stewart]

This thing is great. I love it when people keep it all Toyota.

 

[John Stw]

that looks..............
pretty good! Nice work on the grill

This thing is great. I love it when people keep it all Toyota.

Thanks gents.

looking great john. cant wait to wheel with ya again.

We will be at Sicily Island for Labor Day and Club Challange weekends if yall want to join us.

 

[John Stw]

With the help of a few BSLCA members, we got the motor positioned in the frame and began to fit the Tundra frame motor mounts. Plated the frame some and then trimmed the factory Tundra frame mounts to allow for the new motor placement. Tacked everything up and pulled the engine out to do some full welds. Still have lots of grinding, because I am no where near a good welder, before some paint and final install.

 

[John Stw]

Started graphing in the Tundra tilt steering column, which well help with all the electrical switches and some leg room.

Also started on a shifter handle to move the rear disconnect next to the twin sticks, just need to add a linkage.

http://s556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/John350Z71/FJ 40/

 

[ColoCruiserJeff]

Lookin great overall...great drivetrain in your rig.

Only advice is to slow the wire speed down on your welder and turn up the juice just a tad. Your welds may have some penetration in a few spots, but it looks suspect. Trust me, the LAST thing you want on the trail or highway is a broken motor-mount. What welder are you using? Flux-core or MIG? Settings?

Lookin great though...can wait to see more progress!

 

[Isotel]

i agree with Jeff, i wouldint do too much more welding till you can get that thing tuned in better..

 

[Layonnn]

Flux-core or MIG? Settings?

Looks like flux core from looking at some of the welds (brown dust looking material around welds)

Looks great John, can't wait to see it in action.

 

[John Stw]

Yep, its a 110V flux core welder.
Will try to adjust it some more and add some better welds before I go to far.

 

[Layonnn]

Yep, its a 110V flux core welder.
Will try to adjust it some more and add some better welds before I go to far.

Keep in mind, welds don't have to be pretty to be strong.
Saw on a program that a 1inch weld can hold 1000kg (2200lbs)

What are you planning to do as rust preventative for the inside of the frame where the welding heat has burnt off paint? I have seen a couple different wax sprayers for the inside of frames.