2nd row removal and SRS fix (2 Viewers)

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So, I pulled out my cargo/sleeping deck and put the 2nd row seats back in today. Just a word of warning that is worth repeating: I can't stress enough how heavy that 60% seat is. As in, I'm never doing that again by myself. Not only is it heavy, it's very awkward and there is no good way to grab ahold of it. I thought I was gonna have a stroke trying to get that thing back into the truck. I'm not a big guy (5'-7", 140lbs), and I'm not a young guy anymore (60), so that sucked. Despite putting a heavy blanket on the door sill/jamb, I still managed to put a nice big scratch/dent in the speaker grill on the door. :mad::mad:

Tips: pull the smaller 40% seat out first, then you have a little more room to get the big one. Slide both front seats as far forward as they will go before you start anything or disconnect the battery, this will give you lots more room.

Truck started right back up after reconnecting the battery, didn't die this time. Maybe it has to be disconnected longer.
 
So, I pulled out my cargo/sleeping deck and put the 2nd row seats back in today. Just a word of warning that is worth repeating: I can't stress enough how heavy that 60% seat is. As in, I'm never doing that again by myself. Not only is it heavy, it's very awkward and there is no good way to grab ahold of it. I thought I was gonna have a stroke trying to get that thing back into the truck. I'm not a big guy (5'-7", 140lbs), and I'm not a young guy anymore (60), so that sucked. Despite putting a heavy blanket on the door sill/jamb, I still managed to put a nice big scratch/dent in the speaker grill on the door. :mad::mad:

Tips: pull the smaller 40% seat out first, then you have a little more room to get the big one. Slide both front seats as far forward as they will go before you start anything or disconnect the battery, this will give you lots more room.

Truck started right back up after reconnecting the battery, didn't die this time. Maybe it has to be disconnected longer.

Agreed on the crazy heavy seat weight.

Even with a FULL National Luna fridge put in place of the 60% seat, I come out ahead on weight.
 
Hey all- I’m just jumping in here and plan to do the 2nd row removal this week. I made a double slide rear drawer that slides nearly completely out- wife likes to sleep INSIDE the vehicle- so this gives us a lot more room once I remove the second row.

Here’s the question-
Is there a specific trick to the removal of the plastic bolt / seat mount covers? I know I can just get in there and pry, but I’d rather not destroy them in case I ever want to go back.
TIA

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Hey all- I’m just jumping in here and plan to do the 2nd row removal this week. I made a double slide rear drawer that slides nearly completely out- wife likes to sleep INSIDE the vehicle- so this gives us a lot more room once I remove the second row.

Here’s the question-
Is there a specific trick to the removal of the plastic bolt / seat mount covers? I know I can just get in there and pry, but I’d rather not destroy them in case I ever want to go back.
TIA

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They attach quite firmly, so unless you totally mangle them they should still work well. Mine have been off and on probably ten times so far and definitely have some broken tabs, but still stay on solidly when in use.
I’ll be reinstalling my seats after a trip over the next week or so and will try to get some pictures of the tricks I’ve come up with.
 
They attach quite firmly, so unless you totally mangle them they should still work well. Mine have been off and on probably ten times so far and definitely have some broken tabs, but still stay on solidly when in use.
I’ll be reinstalling my seats after a trip over the next week or so and will try to get some pictures of the tricks I’ve come up with.
Got em... thanks
 
Brad's Hacks has a great solution to the SRS warning light issue. His solution is as described above - a 2.2 ohm resistor to simulate the air bag - but he has packaged it very neatly by creating a male 3D-printed plug. The round plug works perfectly for my 2013 LC 200. $ 15 plus shipping. Here is a link to his website - sienna-remove-seats
 
Brad's Hacks has a great solution to the SRS warning light issue. His solution is as described above - a 2.2 ohm resistor to simulate the air bag - but he has packaged it very neatly by creating a male 3D-printed plug. The round plug works perfectly for my 2013 LC 200. $ 15 plus shipping. Here is a link to his website - sienna-remove-seats
Great tech!
 
Brad's Hacks has a great solution to the SRS warning light issue. His solution is as described above - a 2.2 ohm resistor to simulate the air bag - but he has packaged it very neatly by creating a male 3D-printed plug. The round plug works perfectly for my 2013 LC 200. $ 15 plus shipping. Here is a link to his website - sienna-remove-seats
Nice! If I only remove the 60% seat, then I will only need one round plug?



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Nice! If I only remove the 60% seat, then I will only need one round plug?

Yes, there is one for each side of the row. I've deleted the 40% side.
 
Yes one per seat, do not forget to disconnect the battery to avoid inadvertently triggering the airbag.

[EDIT: I should just report my experience. You decide…]

You do NOT need to disconnect the battery.

I have connected and reconnected seats probably 60 times over the last 6 years. Never touched the battery. It takes a lot more than disconnecting/connecting power to deploy airbags.
 
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Toyota uses a special connector that closes the circuit formed by the leads to the airbag to avoid static electricity possibly deploying them, which should keep things safe. But, they are explicit in the FSM that the battery should be disconnected. This may also be to avoid damaging a module if it somehow still has power when the plug is pulled.

Then again they say that about lots of stuff you can accomplish without doing so.



Collect information (above, including Markuson’s experience) and make your decisions.
 
Yes one per seat, do not forget to disconnect the battery to avoid inadvertently triggering the airbag.
I also stopped disconnecting the battery when messing with those connectors, which I've done many times now.

I mean, has anybody ever actually had an airbag go off unexpectedly like that?
 
Nice! How hard was it to remove the 40% seat?
I also stopped disconnecting the battery when messing with those connectors, which I've done many times now.

I mean, has anybody ever actually had an airbag go off unexpectedly like that?
Haven't heard or seen anything yet.
 
I like the clever 3d printed solution. That being said, the resistors I bought to do the same thing cost a couple of cents and work the same.
 

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