2fpower's going to build a camping trailer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2fpower
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ntsqd
technerd
I disagree with the "Fuse" concept in general. There are places where it is appropriate, like in electrical, but rarely anywhere else. Design the doors so that they can open 180° or nearly so.
I'd go with SS for corrosion resistance. A good way to bend a door is a corroded set of hinges or piano hinge. Unless it is hard anodized aluminum, which I highly doubt, it too will eventually corrode and try to seize where the SS won't.
I'd go with SS for corrosion resistance. A good way to bend a door is a corroded set of hinges or piano hinge. Unless it is hard anodized aluminum, which I highly doubt, it too will eventually corrode and try to seize where the SS won't.
It looks like you're making the boxes out of aluminum? So I'd go with the aluminum hinge to prevent galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals are going to be an issue where they join.
ntsqd
technerd
Oh, spaced on that aspect. Yeah w/o a dielectric between the SS hinge and the aluminum body any moisture in there between them forms a destructive battery. Zinc or Cad plated steel is actually a better choice than SS for this.
What is the plan for coating the body? If going to be power coated or POR-15'd and then the hinges screwed into place I wouldn't worry about using the SS hinge. If going to be "normally" painted or left bare then this is a concern.
What is the plan for coating the body? If going to be power coated or POR-15'd and then the hinges screwed into place I wouldn't worry about using the SS hinge. If going to be "normally" painted or left bare then this is a concern.
2fpower
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- #66
First goal today was to get the design finalized for the door area pieces to get bent up. I received the roll of weatherproofing yesterday that @ntsqd recommended, so came up with this design using 1/8 stock.
Worked today to cut out all the doors and the front box to have the Metal Shop bent things this week.
Here is the cardboard cut out for the front storage box.
And the stack of all the pieces to take to the shop:
Big rear door, one side door, two sides for front box, front stub for box, and box bottom. Plus material for some angle pieces to span the entire top for the roof rack mount. only part I did not make was the lid to the box; however, I am going to wait to do that after I have the opening completed.
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Worked today to cut out all the doors and the front box to have the Metal Shop bent things this week.
Here is the cardboard cut out for the front storage box.
And the stack of all the pieces to take to the shop:
Big rear door, one side door, two sides for front box, front stub for box, and box bottom. Plus material for some angle pieces to span the entire top for the roof rack mount. only part I did not make was the lid to the box; however, I am going to wait to do that after I have the opening completed.
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2fpower
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- #67
Went over to @kc_chevota shop and broke his finger brake... working on the fenders.... thanks also to jack too. Took three of us to get the 3/16 aluminum to bend ....
Here is his finger brake I helped him get years ago.
Raises it on the lift, like the lack of the solid axle
Here is his finger brake I helped him get years ago.
Raises it on the lift, like the lack of the solid axle
2fpower
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- #68
I emailed austin hardware, and they came back with this email that let me to an online catalog that was much more helpful than thier website....
On our paddle handles the max distance between the flange and the striker bolt is Around .89”, nothing around an inch. We do have T-Handles that are adjustable and have enough range.
Austin Hardware Catalog - Pages 1 - 284
I am trying to decide now if I just want to get tamper resistant locks on this (like the ones on the electrical enclosure) and a small handle versus the paddles.
On our paddle handles the max distance between the flange and the striker bolt is Around .89”, nothing around an inch. We do have T-Handles that are adjustable and have enough range.
Austin Hardware Catalog - Pages 1 - 284
I am trying to decide now if I just want to get tamper resistant locks on this (like the ones on the electrical enclosure) and a small handle versus the paddles.
You may want to look here. Kentucky has some interesting designs.
2fpower
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- #73
The Metal Shop called, and had bent up all the stuff. Lots of stuff to start working on. You may notice that the door sides are bent back about an inch and a half, which is way too long, that was the minimum leg that the shop could do. I’ll trim all these down on my tablesaw. ATTACH=full]1914149[/ATTACH]
2fpower
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- #80
rear door is basically done...
Worked on the door opening for the box that will be bolted to the side for kitchen supplies
And got the lip welded on for the front box. I ended up tapering the top upwards half an inch at the center and then angling the trim down to wash away any rain tickets behind the hinge
Worked on the door opening for the box that will be bolted to the side for kitchen supplies
And got the lip welded on for the front box. I ended up tapering the top upwards half an inch at the center and then angling the trim down to wash away any rain tickets behind the hinge
