2fpower's going to build a camping trailer (3 Viewers)

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Just in case you're not aware of it, galvanizing can't have closed volumes. Any tubes that are capped off and sealed will need a vent hole. Usually the bigger the better.

I didn't do it, but my Early Bronco Extended Cab Pick-up came to me with a galvanized frame. So far the mods that I've made have been designed to bolt-on. When I get around to building the engine cage I'll probably have to weld to it. Hope not. There is a product made to reapply zinc where galvanizing has been breached. It is not an aerosol, it is a stick of metal that you rub against a heated area of the galvanized item.

Gotta love the creativity that has gone into that coupler design. At one time I designed something very similar, but I've found that if the pintle is properly sized to the lunette it doesn't make enough noise to be heard in the cab of the truck and haven't made any of the parts that I designed.
 
Main box is designed and shop is going to brake and weld most of it together for me. next up for me is to design the front storage box and figure out how to design the door frames. I was at tractor supply and found that their boxes looked like this.
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I like this look much more that nuthouse does. ends up with nice flush sides with great locking ability. Of course you have to have a really straight door.


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Here is 2uz version. Looks like flat panel larger than opening with frame. on inside of door.
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Something to add to your thought process Kelly Camp Chef Explorer Stove : Cabela's don't even bother with the Coleman style camp stoves, plan for one of these. You can actually do some real cooking with them. I used this to cook for 3 families earlier this year, and then again for a 2 person trip in September. They are so much better then my old school camp stove. I combined mine with a camp wok made from an old plow disc and it was awesome.
 
Well, I am a little bit too far down the road on that one.... Santa may have listened to my request to get what @StucknKS has, a coleman roadtrip. I will strip off the feet and the arm things, and end up with a 22k btu grill/griddle setup.


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It's too bad Camp Chef pushed everything offshore and quit making their Sport Stove as they had a product that rivaled Partner Steel's for a better price. This is the closest to a pic of one that I could find, and it's not exactly like ours.
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On the question of propane tanks, I found small aluminum skinny tanks like those used on forklifts but smaller, only 5lbs. Plan to grab one of those and mount it outside the boxes.

this is the normal 5lb unit,

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Top left is the 6lb unit I found - all aluminum, so rust free.

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power tank makes a bracket for them...

Propane Tank Bracket For 6 lb Aluminum Propane Tank Power Tank

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interesting detail on the front storage box, a recess at the top edge.

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That's so that the leaves & crap that builds up there doesn't interfere with opening the lid. I'd rather it didn't build up there in the first place, but I don't know what that solution might look like.

I think that I'd pitch it like a shallow-pitched roof; "ridge-beam" on chassis CL and as high up as won't interfere with lid opening plus a little clearance, and the "eves" at the outer edges enough lower than the "ridge-beam" to promote good drainage. And hope that the drainage also moves the leaves & crap out of there.

That one appears to be sloped towards the rear, something I definitely would not do. If any slope in that direction it should slope away from that aluminum (?) tube, not towards it.
 
Got a call that the box is ready to pick up.... First picture the box is upside down, as the rib is on the ceiling
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I am still struggling with the design of the seal area for the doors. If anyone has a good design, please let me know. I think the trailers with the doors that are flush when closed look the best, but willing to forgo that if it’s that much more trouble.

Well finally back to this project this weekend, move things in the garage around and got the box mounted to the frame.
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I like these two variations of the same theme:

Using Trim-Lok's DD6100:
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Using Trim-lok's DDA2513:
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Check out Austin Harware for latches and hinges that will work with flush mounted doors.
 
We have numerous trailer doors you are welcome to look at for ideas. If you want to look at some examples give me a call.

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@StucknKS dropped off this small utility box last night and I really like this setup. the door is flush when shut, much like the design that @ntsqd shows above, except the door has a bend in in back in that gap. Seems more secure also as it appears to make it much harder to pry open because when shut you cant get back under the door.

Going to look to see if I can find some U aluminum 1/8 to fab this out of, or I can use angle and weld on some square stock.

I do like the simple door open latch on this. Not as cool as hydralics, but it locks open easily.

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Austin Harware

Exactly what I want. Found that on amazon.


Hinges and latches.... have to decide what to get. TOO MANY ON THAT SITE>>>>

I know I want locking style. other than that, really hard to figure out what to get. Is rotary better than latch style? The panal will be 3/16 aluminum.... hard to see what to get. Thoughts?







 
The return flange of the edge of the door will also make it stiffer in addition to adding a bit of a "labyrinth seal" to sealing the door.
 
On the seals, it is $75 for 25 feet or $175 for 100 feet. Figure I need about 40 feet at the end of the day.

Anyone need some?

 
Worked on the trailer a little bit last night, got the wheels on and started working on the wheel well arches. Also had to remove one of the ribs as it was in the way of the side door

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