2F HEI Install (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

And does the tach work?

That, I think, qualifies as a BHD. Big Honking Distributor.

 

[klinetime574]

And does the tach work?

That, I think, qualifies as a BHD. Big Honking Distributor.

I forgot to hook it up haha. I'll try it soon. Kinda weird not to have it.

 

[Spike Strip]

Looks good. Nice clean motor, too.

 

[klinetime574]

Looks good. Nice clean motor, too.

Thanks Spike Strip!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That engine sounds strong but that dizzy is HUGE! Can you get the oil filter off with that big thing in there???

Starting problem: check the grounds. Sounds like not enough current is getting to the starter.

 

[cando john]

i run the dui hei dizzy love it and have my timing set at 15 deg. before and at full advance she up around 45 deg. runs real strong with the holly 350 cfm carb your whisle could be just the air entering your weber my holly has the same sound yet it runs 19-20 in. vac @ idle rock solid

 

[klinetime574]

do you use a timing light with a computer so you can see your timing and rpms? I don't have one of those

 

[cando john]

i used a timing light with a deg wheel on the back and just watched my tach and @ 3000 rpm's i dialed it back to find my mark in the window again

 

[wngrog]

Alright here ya'll go...

Ah, I love the look of a desmogged 2F

 

[lehiguy]

A desmogged and degreased 2F is a lovely sight indeed! One thing I learned that I want to share with you is about that air cleaner you have. They are too restrictive and if you remove it for a run down the street, you will find new power and throttle response. K&N makes an adapter for Webers that allows a standard diameter air cleaner to fit on there. I ran a 10" K&N element (anything bigger starts to interfere with the MC hardware) in a cheapo chrome housing that I picked up at Vato Zone. Ran much better. Just an FYI...

 

[ntsqd]

A possible option, if you want to get back to an enclosed air filter can, are those used on older Olds V8's with the HEI dizzy. They have an offset carb flange on them to clear the dizzy. So with that on the adapter that Lehiguy mentions you might be able to clear the m/c with an enclosed filter can.
FFT anyway.....

 

[Spike Strip]

Yeah, everytime I see a desmogged 2F, I get header envy...

 

[klinetime574]

A desmogged and degreased 2F is a lovely sight indeed! One thing I learned that I want to share with you is about that air cleaner you have. They are too restrictive and if you remove it for a run down the street, you will find new power and throttle response. K&N makes an adapter for Webers that allows a standard diameter air cleaner to fit on there. I ran a 10" K&N element (anything bigger starts to interfere with the MC hardware) in a cheapo chrome housing that I picked up at Vato Zone. Ran much better. Just an FYI...

Thanks for the tip. Maybe I'll play with this thing tomorrow. I only see it on Wednesday and the Weekends. (divorced parents) The current retard filter is black from backfiring when it had no exhaust

A possible option, if you want to get back to an enclosed air filter can, are those used on older Olds V8's with the HEI dizzy. They have an offset carb flange on them to clear the dizzy. So with that on the adapter that Lehiguy mentions you might be able to clear the m/c with an enclosed filter can.
FFT anyway.....

That would be pretty neat. Maybe a trip to the junkyard is in order...

Thanks for the compliments guys! Makes me feel better. My parents are kinda getting tired of putting money into it, and it doesn't help when it runs worse after modification.

I still need to test the tach hookup also haha

 

[klinetime574]

Well with High School coming to an end, I finally found some time to work on the Cruiser. I got the hard lines removed from the block and ran heater hose away from block and distributor.

My Dad and I just took it for a test drive and we are hearing a ticking noise coming from under the hood. It seems to only happen in gear. I would describe it as high pitched, and possibly coming from the valve train. I still have no earthly idea how to correctly time this beast.

Another issue. The Weber carb appeared to be leaking from the seals. There was a yellowish gunk on the outside below the seal. :censored:

Also it still diesels. Does this mean the engine is not completely igniting all of the fuel? Or not letting the exhaust out? Would adjusting the valves to a different specs change this?

Saw an FJ Cruiser during the drive and he shot us a thumbs up. Most people around here think its a Heep. So that made me feel good, that someone knows what this 25 year old piece of metal is.

Any opinions are greatly appreciated. I'll take some pics later for ya'll

Thanks!

 

[sl33py]

keep at it - great looking blue cruiser!

the tick is probably the valves - do a quick search there are several writeups / "how-to's".

I am interested in your replacement of that hard line that's in your way. I have the DUI and it's a PITA with that line there...

GL!

rob

 

[klinetime574]

Alrighty update time. Might as well post it here rather than start a new thread.

I went and bought a Fuel Pressure Regulator from the parts house after school, after reading the Weber only needs 3 PSI of fuel pressure max. Right on the instructions it came with. And read over it many times.
It runs much better. And the two times I have shut it off, it has not dieseled. Good news to me. The valves were also really clacky before like a diesel and they shut up alot.
Also had time to hook up the tach from the wire from the original set to the only spot left on the distributor. It works! Imagine that. haha

The strange rattle noise under load and in gear is still there. Getting pretty irritating. Oil change tomorrow after school.

Thats my solution for re-routing those heater hoses. And yes the FPR is turned to 2 PSI, my thinking being the weber is huge and dumping a lot of gas into the engine already. Seems good to me.

Tell me what ya'll think!

Thanks!

 

[Trollhole]

Watch it here.

YouTube - FJ60 Start-Up and Exhaust

I dunno what happened before starting. Thats the first time it has ever happened.

Sorry for that annoying vacuum whistle. I can't find it

Alrighty update time. Might as well post it here rather than start a new thread.

I went and bought a Fuel Pressure Regulator from the parts house after school, after reading the Weber only needs 3 PSI of fuel pressure max. Right on the instructions it came with. And read over it many times.
It runs much better. And the two times I have shut it off, it has not dieseled. Good news to me. The valves were also really clacky before like a diesel and they shut up alot.
Also had time to hook up the tach from the wire from the original set to the only spot left on the distributor. It works! Imagine that. haha

The strange rattle noise under load and in gear is still there. Getting pretty irritating. Oil change tomorrow after school.


Thats my solution for re-routing those heater hoses. And yes the FPR is turned to 2 PSI, my thinking being the weber is huge and dumping a lot of gas into the engine already. Seems good to me.

Tell me what ya'll think!

Thanks!

That vacuum leak is most likely the cause of the dieseling.

I'm finding it hard to believe fueling changes would make the valves quieter.

That rattling under load could be detonation (knock) basically your engine trying to self destruct because you have way to much timing. Fix the vacuum leak before you burn a piston, adjust the valves to get the motor in synch and retard the timing and see if the knock goes away.

 

[klinetime574]

That vacuum leak is most likely the cause of the dieseling.

I'm finding it hard to believe fueling changes would make the valves quieter.

That rattling under load could be detonation (knock) basically your engine trying to self destruct because you have way to much timing. Fix the vacuum leak before you burn a piston, adjust the valves to get the motor in synch and retard the timing and see if the knock goes away.

First off thanks for your honesty. Thats why I don't take this to shops they lie and steal money.

My thinking was that if there was less fuel going in I wouldn't be igniting as much therefore reducing valve noise that I had. I haven't fixed the vacuum leak yet. So I must have gotten lucky when I took the Weber back to spec tuning. Therefore running lean and killing any chances at dieseling. I will soon be redoing the vacuum lines, because its a madhouse under the hood. And also doing a valve adjustment, because it has definitely changed.

Thanks again!

 

[Brock]

UPDATE?