2F head rebuild threads (1 Viewer)

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LAMBCRUSHER said:
Guides would need to be trashed to need new ones when going to the fatter stem valves... I mean fubarred
Click to expand...

Yeah, fubar guides or a machine shop that doesn't have the proper stepped reems to get from the Toyota diameter to the Chevy diameter. The machine shop was not comfortable with their Gap in sizes and were afraid they would ruin them if they tried to take too much out at one time. It was afew more bucks, but I was committed at that point.
 
Btdt. Doh!
 
Here are some of the parts I used copied directly from rock auto:

SEALED POWER V2258 Intake Valve
Size: Standard $ 7.71 $ 0.00 6 $ 46.26
SEALED POWER V2257 Exhaust Valve
Size: Standard $ 15.55 $ 0.00 6 $ 93.30

OEM was still available on intake and Exhaust. My machinist encouraged me to use these as a middle of the road option. He didn't want to use the SBC stuff on a really stock refresh like this.

I used oem valve springs. About $100

FEL-PRO HS9833PT1 (HS9833PT1:p) Cylinder Head Gasket / Head Gasket Set
Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty $ 50.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 50.79

This gasket set covered the whole top of the motor. Valve seals, valve cover gasket and head gasket.

AISIN WPT028 (WPT-028@W22) Water Pump $ 73.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 73.79
AISIN FCT017 Radiator Fan Clutch $ 64.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 64.79

I replaced the radiator with a CSF 2708.

I replaced the following with OEM parts:

All oil cooler hoses and clamps
Thermostat and o ring gasket
All coolant hoses and clamps

I blocked the rear heater off with a BSPT plug from MCmaster Carr thanks to @OSS and used a short length of heater hose as the final bypass.
 
The ones I got from James (@reevesci) were gorgeous... his were about $220 for the full set from what I remember someone else asking him.
 
Guys... I've been out of pocket at the national championship game and then mourning the loss my Dawgs took to Alabama so I'm a little behind on my responses here. Many thanks for everyone chiming in.

I am pulling my carb & dizzy this weekend to send to Jim C for a rebuild and recurve. Fortunately he is not too backed up right now. Then off comes the head and the rebuild to follow.

I'll keep you all posted...
 
Does anyone have a part number or link to SBC stainless exhaust and intake valves? I think the sealed power part listed above is not stainless.

Or maybe just specs or Chevy application displacement and year?

Not to hijack, but I have 2 dead cylinders and it is most definitely loss of valve sealing.
 
FishTacos said:
Does anyone have a part number or link to SBC stainless exhaust and intake valves? I think the sealed power part listed above is not stainless.

Or maybe just specs or Chevy application displacement and year?

Not to hijack, but I have 2 dead cylinders and it is most definitely loss of valve sealing.
Click to expand...

The Sealed Power are not SS, but high quality. Jim C. posted the specs somewhere... I'll post a link if I can find it. I asked for that info to placed in the FAQ but it never was :frown:

Building the head with SBC SS valves also requires modification to the valve guide holes for the larger valve guides. It really takes a machinist familiar with this to do it...

@Cruiserdrew may have the info ?
 
@FishTacos these are the ones I used about 10 years ago on @FJ40Jim 's advice. Standard lengths for both intake and exhaust with a 2f rocker assembly, exhaust 0.100" longer for 3FE rocker assembly.

SI Claimer Series Stainless Steel Valves

claimer series stainless steel valves small big block chevy ford
www.rpmrons.com
 
Spike Strip said:
The Sealed Power are not SS, but high quality. Jim C. posted the specs somewhere... I'll post a link if I can find it. I asked for that info to placed in the FAQ but it never was :frown:

Building the head with SBC SS valves also requires modification to the valve guide holes for the larger valve guides. It really takes a machinist familiar with this to do it...

@Cruiserdrew may have the info ?
Click to expand...

Thanks Spike.

I plan on taking the head to a well recommended machinist here. I think I'm going to get it flattened on the two business sides while im at it.
 
This is not rocket surgery.
It is a stock valve job on a GMC inline 6 truck head using GM/Chevy parts.
If the machine shop cannot comprehend how to do it, select another machine shop.

The valves, retainers and locks are standard 1.84/1.50 SBC.
All 12 springs are the 'short' springs used on 1970s&80s SBC exh w/ positive rotator.
The machinist will have to decide what to do for seals. SBC umbrellas are the easy button.
I insist on a positive seal, which requires cutting down the top of the valve guide to fit. The machinist has tooling to do this, as it is a requirement for upgrading to positive seals on an old SBC.
Stock replacement swirl polished SS exh valves
 
FJ40Jim said:
The valves, retainers and locks are standard 1.84/1.50 SBC.
All 12 springs are the 'short' springs used on 1970s&80s SBC exh w/ positive rotator.
The machinist will have to decide what to do for seals. SBC umbrellas are the easy button.
I insist on a positive seal, which requires cutting down the top of the valve guide to fit. The machinist has tooling to do this, as it is a requirement for upgrading to positive seals on an old SBC.
Stock replacement swirl polished SS exh valves
Click to expand...

Hey guys, sorry to dredge up an old thread but I'm having some issues sourcing these parts for a head job and would appreciate examples or year-make-model for lookup. I'm trying to get together all the parts as a learning experience and to provide to the machine shop. I've already got guides (OE 2F), SBC valves (SI single groove. Exhaust 1.50" from a 5.7L ex. 1999 GMC 1500 Suburban, intake 1.84" from a 5.0L ex. 1991 Buick Roadmaster) and keepers (SI hardened, single groove).

0. Example of "short" SBC exhaust spring and rotator (retainer? Or a spring set that'll work)
1. Example of positive valve stem seal to use? Looks like stock is 8mm stem and 0.512" guide (pardon the unit discrepancy, pasting from RA) but that won't work for the 11/32" SBC valves (8.7mm, and the stem seals can accommodate up to 8.4mm as per spec). Available is 11/32" stem and 0.530" guide for SBC applications but (correct me if I'm wrong) that seems like it may be loose on the guide). I see sporadic mentions of a "Ford valve stem seal" but haven't been able to find a year-make-model to reference or a P/N if somebody could help me out.

Thanks!
 
In my experience- the machine shop that has experience rebuilding these heads can get all the parts needed. They also have experience with certain parts that they know will work and be reliable.
You’ve got way more parts already than what’s necessary. Just bring everything to the shop and whatever is missing, they’ll get it.

Normally…. a guy just brings his tired cylinder head to a machine shop and that’s it. No parts. And a week or two later comes back to pick it up all rebuilt.
The only reason I can see for buying every part on your own is if you’re going to do the entire rebuild yourself- which isn’t really possible since the cylinder head needs to be shaved with specialized equipment.
 
OSS said:
In my experience- the machine shop that has experience rebuilding these heads can get all the parts needed. They also have experience with certain parts that they know will work and be reliable.
You’ve got way more parts already than what’s necessary. Just bring everything to the shop and whatever is missing, they’ll get it.

Normally…. a guy just brings his tired cylinder head to a machine shop and that’s it. No parts. And a week or two later comes back to pick it up all rebuilt.
The only reason I can see for buying every part on your own is if you’re going to do the entire rebuild yourself- which isn’t really possible since the cylinder head needs to be shaved with specialized equipment.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'll do that. Really getting into this project so I'm keen to research every step of the way; I just realized that I can just have them supply those parts and ask about them after the head is done. Thanks
 
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