2F head rebuild threads (1 Viewer)

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I'm planning to rebuild my head in the next few months and I want to read up as much as possible. I can't find anything in the FAQ section for the 60's or 40's that seems to be the definitive guide to rebuilding the head.

Other than the FSM can you point me in the direction of any threads that would be good reads before I jump into this?

Others build threads or a how to thread?

Thanks MUD!
 

HemiAlex

TLCA #24987
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What do you need to know?

I rebuilt my head with Federal Mogul/Speedpro intake and exhaust valves, oem valve springs and fel pro valve stem seals. I had cracks on on the galley area that were stitched back together and I also did the plug mod. @gregnash also rebuilt his as well as @mk4leo
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Talk to a few shops and wager a choice from 3/4. Some won’t bother w/ new springs. Some will relap your valves. Some will be happy to recut valve seats and replace valve seals. Some will be happy to do it all. Honestly, it comes down to what’s your flavor?
Being honest I haven’t really run my truck post top end rebuild but I do feel okay w/ my decisions on what I did and what I didn’t do tho some might poo poo me.
How deep are your pockets?
 
Joined
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Atlanta
What do you need to know?

I rebuilt my head with Federal Mogul/Speedpro intake and exhaust valves, oem valve springs and fel pro valve stem seals. I had cracks on on the galley area that were stitched back together and I also did the plug mod. @gregnash also rebuilt his as well as @mk4leo
Thanks @HemiAlex! I would love to know a few things. I am trying to read up as much as possible before I dive in.

My plan is to pull the head and send it to a local machine shop that has rebuilt a bunch for the local landcruiser shop. I have to supply all of the parts. valve seals, guides, etc. And then of course I need to get the gaskets for when I put it all back together. Do you have a parts list that you used?

I am also thinking I'll send my carb to Jim C to rebuild at the same time. It's never been rebuilt and it's time. At the same time I'll send my dizzy in to get recurved. I haven't don't that since I desmogged.

So any info or guidance on parts to buy to be ready to roll and info on what to do. Even other's build threads on this would be great to read. I haven't found a lot surprisingly. Maybe it is pretty simple even though it is an involved job.
 
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Just pull it and do it. ;) Really very simple. If I was able....
that’s what you’ve come to have decided huh? ****.
Yup! I broke down last weekend and took it to ACC Garage, the big landcruiser shop in Atlanta, to see what they thought was going on. They agreed that it is likely valve seals and guides leaking oil into the head. That's where my oil is going and why I'm smoking so much.

They also said my carb is running rich which is causing some of the smoking. they recommended a full carb rebuild which I knew was coming anyway.

Now I just need to save my pennies and get my ducks in an order to do the work!
 
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Tank clean and magnuflux for cracks. Mill for flatness only on deck and manifold planes.
If guides are not worn, doll up or replace stock Toyota valves, grind seats, and valves and reassemble with checked springs and hardware and go on your way.
If guides are worn, ream out for SBC 1.82 intakes and 1.50 exhaust valves in stainless steel. They are dirt cheap. Use stock rate SBC springs and keepers and seals. The stock guides will only need to be reamed as will the seats, but they will not need to be drilled or ground out and replaced. The stainless valves are less likely to warp when you get a manifold leak
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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^^^ WHS is pretty much what I did other than the jap valves I was gifted. My guides were true so the shop simply cut new seats, checked the springs and then lapped the new valves and put it all back together for me. I was surprised to find he pulled the ugly air rail plugs someone had installed for new ones. And he added a coat of primer for me as well. Guy was awesome. That was just a smidge over $300. He did resurface the block side as it was open between 3 and 4 over 0.600th.
 

76FJ40

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While you're at it, consider milling the head up to .1" as Mark Wately suggests to increase the compression. I milled mine 80 thousandths and it made a very noticeable increase in power. The only down side is that I have to run 89 octane.
 

3_puppies

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Thanks @HemiAlex! I would love to know a few things. I am trying to read up as much as possible before I dive in.

My plan is to pull the head and send it to a local machine shop that has rebuilt a bunch for the local landcruiser shop. I have to supply all of the parts. valve seals, guides, etc. And then of course I need to get the gaskets for when I put it all back together. Do you have a parts list that you used?

You need to supply the parts???

my gut says go somewhere else. just my opinion.
 
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I had my 2F head ('77 engine) milled .030 last year and it did not make a noticeable increase in compression. The head gasket is about .030 in thickness, for comparison. So, if you are milling the head for a compression bump, I would do more than .030. Just my experience here.
 

FJ40JOHN

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Keep me posted. What's next for you?

Head will be inspected and rebuilt by a local shop. Up in the air on details at this point. Might do Chevy SS valves, just because I'm already here, may have the shop evaluate and only do the necessary parts to keep on budget.

This is step one in fixing a blowby issue. I need to pull my pistons as well and inspect the rings. From the look of the cylinders, I may be able to get away with new rings, light hone, and a rebuilt head.

Reassemble with carb and a desmog, then drive the crap out of it.

If things go my way with those steps, I may very well grab an AFI setup (next time they have a 20-25% off sale) to clone wngrog's setup.
 
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While you're at it, consider milling the head up to .1" as Mark Wately suggests to increase the compression. I milled mine 80 thousandths and it made a very noticeable increase in power. The only down side is that I have to run 89 octane.


The need for high test gas is why I recommend milling for flatness only...
 

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