2f Head and gasket problems on new rebuild (1 Viewer)

[SAFJ60]

I had a local rebuilder in here in San Antonio rebuild my 83 fj60 2F. Zero compression in one cylinder due to cracked ring. After I reinstalled it, I struggled with heating issues and after 200 miles it started missing. I had zero compression on #6. I pulled the cover and realized I had no oil up on the valve train and exhaust for #6 was stuck open. The builder installed the gasket backwards blocking the oil port. I did not check for flow when I started it up (rookie mistake). Back to the builder it went. We tapped on the stuck valve and it popped back in. He supposedly tore the head down, checked it out and replaced the valve. He gave me a second gasket kit, Teikin TF9117 (NK), to put the head back on. After about 750 more miles of break in, it developed a miss, started to run around 200 (external gauge had been running around 170-180). We observed what might be steam coming out of the exhaust. So the tear down begins.
First frothy oil in cover. Oil on dipstick looks clear, no sign of water.

Pulled plugs, started compression test, water shoots out of #5 or #6...pretty sure it was 6.
#1 - 148
#2 - 148
#3 - 150
#4 - 136
#5 - 150
#6 - 300+ blew up my tester, I had put a bit of oil in the cylinder in a attempt to displace the water....rookie mistake. looking at the picture below, I now see some rust in #5, so maybe thats where the water shot out from.

Starter cold leak down test.
#1 - 80PSI - 20% leak
#2 - 80PSI - 55% leak, air bubbling out of radiator.
#3 - 80PSI - 55% leak, air bubbling out of radiator.
#4 - 80PSI - 55% leak, air bubbling out of radiator.
#5 - 80PSI - 55% leak, air bubbling out of radiator.
#6 - 80PSI - 20% leak. no air bubbles,

I am not sure where the water came from? it must have been #5...

I have a lot of leakage in the valves. I can fill up a zip look bag with the air. My assumption is that the valves were lapped, but now not sure.

I pulled the head and not sure what I am looking at.

There are some ports that appeared to be covered by the gasket and then coolant broke through them. See pictures. I have read that over the years, the coolant passages were rerouted, but not sure if thats the case, or if its a cheap gasket kit.

I am now looking at my options...Im gonna either lap the valves myself, or take the head to another shop.

Is the Teikin brand any good? Is OEM available?

Any Comments?


Thanks for reading!
Joel

 

[Skreddy]

You can check if the valves need lapped or refinished by putting the spark plugs in, turn the head upside down and fill the combustion chamber with water or gas. I like gas as it’s thinner, just wait to smoke until you’re done….
Then, look in the intake and exhaust runners to see if you’re getting any leakage. Whenever I lap valves, when I think I’m good, I’ll put 3 sharpie marks across the valve evenly spaced and turn the valve against the seat. The sharpie marks should be worn to shiny metal if you’re good on that one. If that makes sense.

 

[Pighead]

Is OEM available?

Absolutely. Toyota makes a superior head gasket.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

@cruisermatt sells OEM HGs

 

[Spike Strip]

Teikin is a good brand, they're a Japanese OEM manufactured in Thailand or Taiwan and that part # is correct for your application. But I would use the OE Toyota gasket; it is far more robust. Quite spendy now, but how many times you want to pull that head?

In Pighead's pic above, the 'tab' on the right-side end of the HG should stick out the BACK of the engine.

11115-61010 is the correct Toyota HG up to 10/84. Do you have the original 2F and original 61040 Head?

Buy a Silver-Star subscription ($20/yr) so you can post lots of pix. You're gonna need it.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Teikin is a good brand, they're a Japanese OEM manufactured in Thailand or Taiwan and that part # is correct for your application. But I would use the OE Toyota gasket; it is far more robust. Quite spendy now, but how many times you want to pull that head?

In Pighead's pic above, the 'tab' on the right-side end of the HG should stick out the BACK of the engine.

11115-61010 is the correct Toyota HG up to 10/84. Do you have the original 2F and original 61040 Head?

Buy a Silver-Star subscription ($20/yr) so you can post lots of pix. You're gonna need it.

As an aside, what’s the difference in pre- and post-84 HGs? The 2F motor I’m rebuilding is out of an 87 and it’s going into my 82.

 

[Spike Strip]

Post 10/84 is the 2F/3F head and my understanding is the casting changed to better cool the back of the engine, specifically cyl 5 and 6. The correct HG for those is 11115-61030 and is supposed to reflect the change in coolant flow. I've posted pix of the 61010 and 61030 side by side and there's very little difference, but that's what Mr T calls for and it's still that way in the catalogues without the 61030 being listed as superseding the 61010.

If the head is a later 61040 casting going on an earlier block, the HG should match the head. The non-USA 3F head is a 61050 and is essentially a 61040 without the machining for the Air Injection nozzles. This was the main 3F head and takes the 61030 HG.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Post 10/84 is the 2F/3F head and my understanding is the casting changed to better cool the back of the engine, specifically cyl 5 and 6. The correct HG for those is 11115-61030 and is supposed to reflect the change in coolant flow. I've posted pix of the 61010 and 61030 side by side and there's very little difference, but that's what Mr T calls for and it's still that way in the catalogues without the 61030 being listed as superseding the 61010.

If the head is a later 61040 casting going on an earlier block, the HG should match the head. The non-USA 3F head is a 61050 and is essentially a 61040 without the machining for the Air Injection nozzles. This was the main 3F head and takes the 61030 HG.

Dude, this answered like three questions I didn't even ask. Are the other casting numbers further back from "61040" some kind of date code? I think I've seen that post you made but I'm unable to find it anymore.

@crtx Get a load of this. Someone could slap a 2F head on that 3F block and run it... I bet the rockers are the same too.

 

[Spike Strip]

I don't think the head casting #s are date codes, there are actual codes for that, but I think they're more of 'Market codes/application codes' but I don't know. Perhaps the paragon of parts gurus, OGBeno has thoughts on this.

FAIK, a late 2F 61040 head would run on a 3F block. I don't know if the machining for Intake/Exhaust fasteners is the same, though, meaning I don't know if 3F exhaust or Intake is a direct bolt on to a 2F head.

FWIW, you can buy a new 11101-61050 (2F/3F) Cylinder head from Chairman Mao

[Hot Item] Toyota 3f OEM 11101-61050 Landcruiser Bare Cylinder Head

Application: Truck, Car Certification: TS16949, ISO 9001 Warranty: 12 Months Material: Cast Iron Transport Package: Wooden Case Trademark: vistana

fcautoparts.en.made-in-china.com

https://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-1110161060-11101-61060-11101-61050-1984-85/dp/B0DXWG1JCZ

 

[CruiserTrash]

I don't think the head casting #s are date codes, there are actual codes for that, but I think they're more of 'Market codes/application codes' but I don't know. Perhaps the paragon of parts gurus, OGBeno has thoughts on this.

FAIK, a late 2F 61040 head would run on a 3F block. I don't know if the machining for Intake/Exhaust fasteners is the same, though, meaning I don't know if 3F exhaust or Intake is a direct bolt on to a 2F head.

FWIW, you can buy a new 11101-61050 (2F/3F) Cylinder head from Chairman Mao

[Hot Item] Toyota 3f OEM 11101-61050 Landcruiser Bare Cylinder Head

Application: Truck, Car Certification: TS16949, ISO 9001 Warranty: 12 Months Material: Cast Iron Transport Package: Wooden Case Trademark: vistana

fcautoparts.en.made-in-china.com

https://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-1110161060-11101-61060-11101-61050-1984-85/dp/B0DXWG1JCZ

Bet that thing is A++++ quality! lol

 

[cruiseroutfit]

As an aside, what’s the difference in pre- and post-84 HGs? The 2F motor I’m rebuilding is out of an 87 and it’s going into my 82.

I'd be happy to answer that

See here:

F, 2F (and 3F for giggles) Head Gasket Tech & Reference

There are quite a few threads on the many head gaskets found on the gasoline F engine family. However I'm working on a large gasket kit project and needed to get to the bottom of a few of them in my own head. I figured having a single reference thread would be helpful. If this already exists...

forum.ih8mud.com

If there is additional info y'all would like to see in that thread, LMK.


We stock all of those gaskets, head gasket kits and engine overhaul kits for nearly all F, 2F, 3F and 1FZ applications (and diesel stuff too). Most we have in OEM and Japanese, some are Japanese kits only as OEM stuff goes NLA.

 

[SAFJ60]

I am now a Silver Star member!!! Hell of a value for the price!
I have verified my head to be a 61040.
I was able to add gas into the chambers. Instead of waiting for signs of leaking, I pushed air up into the ports and saw bubbles on 10 of 12 valves. I guess I will need to lap the valves myself.

I will be ordering a 61010 gasket.
With regards to the Teikin head gasket, it looks to me like the holes that are being covered up by the redesign actually blew through the gasket material. You can see in the pictures where the gasket material is torn around the holes.
Is this possible?