2f fail

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nope, didn't know that, must've been buried in a thread somewhere or my memory failed me again. Must be a catastrophic break- seems like a birf would be simple enough to replace.

I was told that we should not work on those POS coarse spline birfs anymore :doh:

on the trail, Phil and Kevin were of great help to get the spare in :clap:

more pics in the Cruise Moab thread here on the CSC forum

thanks for sending me a hard copy of the pic, Phil :cheers:

and the remains of that birf are displayed here on my office desk - causing visitors to go :confused: :hillbilly:
 
... Must be a catastrophic break- seems like a birf would be simple enough to replace.

It was back on the trail in about half an hour.:meh: We had plenty of birf practice on that trip.:hillbilly:
 
So the request for newer axles is for future considerations, I guess.
 
I was told that we should not work on those POS coarse spline birfs anymore :doh:
...

It is not so much the POS coarse spline birfs, they have worked much better than expected. It is the combination of; POS worn out Warn hubs fixin to break any second, POS adapter brakes with unobtainium parts, POS wheel bearings and seals that don't fit anything else, POS bearing adjuster nuts that take a different unobtainium socket than everybody else, etc. :hillbilly:

It is working, so is not a heart attack to get it done. But if clean, later type parts can be scored would make for a good upgrade that will be a stronger setup, that shares parts and tooling with most of the other rigs on the trail. ....,,, and , yes I would prefer to never assemble those POS parts again!:hillbilly:
 
What size is this POS socket? I have at least three FJs I wouldn't be updating to disc brakes. Is it really that hard to fine?

IIRC 50mm, where everything else is 54mm. The bigger deal is almost nothing interchanges the later rigs, even the bearing and star washers are different. Not a big deal for a personal fleet, but for a rig that wheel with others, I prefer parts interchangeability. This allows much more options if/when an :whoops: happens on the trail. The early stuff has some pretty big design compromises and Claudia's parts have seen some stress, likely wasn't designed to take big tires, locker, rock crawling, etc.:hillbilly:
 
Is there any advantage to updating the rear axle also? John

IIRC ~67 and earlier, had coarse spline axle shafts, significantly weaker. After that, the newer axles are all about the same from an axle shaft strength point? The diff pinion changed from coarse to fine spline (mid 70's ish?) so, if it is a problem, swapping to the later diffs or gears is an upgrade.
 
What size is this POS socket? I have at least three FJs I wouldn't be updating to disc brakes. Is it really that hard to fine?

in 7 years of owning the truck, we had the front apart once by ourselves and used :hillbilly: methods

then we did a full knuckle rebuilt/caster adjustment/seal replacement in Kevin's shop about 1.5 years ago after the birf wiper seal started puking on the brakes and the POS spring pad welds had come loose - somehow I don't remember us having a 50mm socket then, either :whoops:

I think that was actually when we discovered that the socket I had ordered from Kurt for the task was the wrong size :doh: (he confirmed he only sells the 54mm); yet, by the time I started packing the spare parts boxes this May, I had obvious forgotten that detail again :rolleyes:

BTW, if the so-called POS hubs had broken, I would've had spares for those ;p

but yeah, the mix of metric, standard, OEM and aftermarket parts gets confusing - and on top of that, the oh so highly praised Marlin seal spit out the metal ring :mad: and I had left the front axle rebuilt kit at home figuring that we had just done the axle a year ago :bang:
 
Last edited:
IIRC 50mm, where everything else is 54mm. The bigger deal is almost nothing interchanges the later rigs, even the bearing and star washers are different. Not a big deal for a personal fleet, but for a rig that wheel with others, I prefer parts interchangeability. This allows much more options if/when an :whoops: happens on the trail. The early stuff has some pretty big design compromises and Claudia's parts have seen some stress, likely wasn't designed to take big tires, locker, rock crawling, etc.:hillbilly:


Okay I need to find a 50MM socket now or figure if something SAE is close enough. I always managed to get away with chanel lock pliers in the past. I found it helps spinning the wheel in the direction you tighten the nut at the same time. Something I would do even with a socket. My first cruiser a early 68 has the corse spline axles. But at least I don't have to worry about breaking birfield. I did break one of the claws on the inner axle once. Only way I knew was I had to pull it a part to install lockrights. Probably running 31X10.5X15 at the time.

IIRC ~67 and earlier, had coarse spline axle shafts, significantly weaker. After that, the newer axles are all about the same from an axle shaft strength point? The diff pinion changed from coarse to fine spline (mid 70's ish?) so, if it is a problem, swapping to the later diffs or gears is an upgrade.

Fine spline pinion change was with the 78 model. Just one of the things that make 78 a desirable year.:cheers:
 
Okay I need to find a 50MM socket now or figure if something SAE is close enough. ...

A 2" 6pt should work? Needs to be relatively thin wall.

Fine spline pinion change was with the 78 model. Just one of the things that make 78 a desirable year.:cheers:

IMHO the coarse spline pinion diffs get too much of a bad rap. They are somewhat weaker, but most of the breakage that I have seen is from failure to control pinion angle. When the axle angle excessively changes, causing the drive shaft yokes to contact/bind, the pinion is going to break. :hillbilly:
 
50mm socket is ~$30 at Specter Offroad
 
50mm socket is ~$30 at Specter Offroad

If it is the one that I remember, it is very thin, wimpy and doesn't have a square drive, just a hole through it to use a rod, screwdriver, etc, as a handle. Not that ether is the end of the world, but I prefer to have the option to use a torque wrench and prefer something more solid. Would opt for a conventional socket and it would likely be cheaper.
 
Sunex makes a 50mm 3/4" dr impact part# SUN450MD. Wright also, # WR69-50MM. Wright is a better name, US product, not that it matters for this application. Before ordering I would make two checks; measure a nut to confirm size, measure the hub ID to confirm that the socket will fit into it.
 
BTW, we found my 1/2 to 3/4 adapter - in Michael's truck :doh:
 
Sunex makes a 50mm 3/4" dr impact part# SUN450MD. Wright also, # WR69-50MM. Wright is a better name, US product, not that it matters for this application. Before ordering I would make two checks; measure a nut to confirm size, measure the hub ID to confirm that the socket will fit into it.

Thanks for the info Kevin

BTW, we found my 1/2 to 3/4 adapter - in Michael's truck :doh:

I found a 2" 3/4" drive socket in a cruiser I bought and was thinking I could use that adapter. But concidering the thing weights about a pound I have a funny feeling the wall may be to thick to use:rolleyes:
 
... I have a funny feeling the wall may be to thick to use:rolleyes:

That isn't a problem, send it over, I have a lathe.:hillbilly: Also the nuts are thin, so the chamfer on the front of big sockets reduces contact, not a problem, can be removed in the same operation.
 
Back
Top Bottom