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2F dying problem

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Benji, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. Benji

    Benji

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    I have an 84 FJ60 with the 2F engine. I recently purchased the vehicle and have had a problem with it dying because of low idle speed when braking or when decelerating from high to low rpms ???. This problem happens when the engine is warm and to adjust for the idle problem (so I don’t kill the engine while at a stop light) I simply pull the choke out enough to keep it at about 1000rpm. The PO had taken the vehicle to a Toyota dealership to fix the problem and on the original statement he complained of the exact same thing I am experiencing. They rebuilt the carb and EGR components and replaced the manifold gasket and many other gaskets. I have replaced all vac lines, PCV vlv, and I can almost 100% guarantee you that there is not a vac leak. I have also set the idle speed screw to the proper setting (1800rpm at full choke). The engine runs great otherwise :). It is just a hassle to pull the choke out every time I slow down, especially in the city. Could this be a fuel solenoid problem? I need some help.
    :cheers:
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Will it idle at all with out the choke pulled?
     
  3. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    could be an idle selnoid. with the motor off, put some power too it and you should hear it click, I think you can hear it with out removing it, but taking it off is easy, it just unscrews.

    are you sure all the vacumme lines are going to the right spot?
     
  4. Benji

    Benji

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    Yeah, the choke does not have to be on or pulled out when normal idle is occuring i.e. when sitting in the driveway. I am pretty sure the lines go to the right place. I replaced them one-by-one, but who knows what a mechanic or the PO did to them previously. Is there a schematic of the vacume lines anywhere. The Hayne's manual does not show them well. Where does the fuel solenoid power line go to? I see it just routing into a bundle of wires and then taking off near the front head light? If I can fix this problem the engine will be perfect. Thanks for the continued help.

    :cheers:
     
  5. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Do me a favor,
    Start the truck, get it idling nicely and pump the brakes...

    Tell me if the motor falters..
     
  6. Benji

    Benji

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    Pushing on the brakes does not change the engine idle, it is a function of going from higher to lower rpms. ex. engine warm and idling and then give it gas to 2 or 3 thousand rpm and when the gas is let off it goes below 1 and dies completely. same thing happens when driving and braking to a stop i.e. high to low rpms rapidly. if I slow down in gear very slow and geently the truck will not die. ????? Can anyone hellp?
    thank you
    :cheers:
     
  7. swank60

    swank60

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    I had a similar problem, and it was my EGR - mine wasn't bad, but the hose was a little cracked at the end and it wasn't 100% sealed. I'd revisit that. Make sure it's hooked up right. The info in the Haynes manual on the EGR isn't bad.

    Hate to say it, but the dealership doesn't always get it right