Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[mderrick]

trans crossmember

this does really have anything to do with the build but i am in search of a transmission crossmember for a fj-40 with a h55f 5speed. i just noticed what looked like what i need in one of you pics.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

this does really have anything to do with the build but i am in search of a transmission crossmember for a fj-40 with a h55f 5speed. i just noticed what looked like what i need in one of you pics.

I'm using it

 

[mderrick]

right i fiured that do you know of any in OZ? or are they tough to come by?

 

[matt.mcinnes]

right i fiured that do you know of any in OZ? or are they tough to come by?

I maybe able to come by one

 

[mderrick]

thanks matt,let me know if you find anything i'll need the frame bits of th cross member also.
can't wait to see the mule in action.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Turbo is fitted and all the intercooler work is now complete apart from the coolant plumbing of the water, the straight fittings need swapping out now for either 45 or 90 degrees ones, they were only ever intended for testing.

Next up the stainless 3" exhaust system.


But for now the completed photos.

 

[awill4x4]

Just a couple of things Matt. Are you changing the convoluted tubing from the intercooler to the throttle body to a proper turbo hose? I don't think the tubing you have will handle boost pressure.
Also, check to see if MPC have either rolled or welded a bead around the intercooler tube ends. It's a common problem for boosted engines to blow hoses off straight tube ends.
You should also probably change the hose bands for a proper "turbo type" which are wider and also have rolled edges so they don't cut your hoses.
Looking good so far Matt keep up the good work.
Regards Andrew.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Just a couple of things Matt. Are you changing the convoluted tubing from the intercooler to the throttle body to a proper turbo hose? I don't think the tubing you have will handle boost pressure.
Also, check to see if MPC have either rolled or welded a bead around the intercooler tube ends. It's a common problem for boosted engines to blow hoses off straight tube ends.
You should also probably change the hose bands for a proper "turbo type" which are wider and also have rolled edges so they don't cut your hoses.
Looking good so far Matt keep up the good work.
Regards Andrew.

Hi Andrew
You don't miss a trick, I will mention the hose bands, the only non rolled edges are on the actual intercooler I was thinking of asking you to run a bead around it if we had a problem for just that reason. DaveJB had already pointed this out too.

The hose from the intercooler to the throttle body is only temporary, They have a hose on order with a bend to suit the alignment better. That one was used for alinement and fitting.

Have to say I'm very happy with the out come, the intercooler fits perfectly too and MPC have done a top job mounting it. The addition of the 3rd rubber mounting tying it to the rocker cover was an excellent idea on their part. The Turbo manifold is just a work of art that utilizes the space available very well, they put allot of thought in to it.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Lord Have Mercy

I agree with another guy in a different thread when he said as good as this engine looks I don't think I could leave it in the rig, It'd have to stay in my living room. WOW

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Inter-cooler cooling

A little shopping on E-Bay netted us this for $50. This will be mounted in the rear once the old LPG tank is removed. The 4 way splitters we made to divide the water for the inter-cooler has the same O/D main pipe as the inlet and outlet of the radiator. Just need to fab up a bracket and run the radiator hose down the chassis rail to the rear. It may end up been too small but there is always E-Bay.
The thermo fan will be hooked into the ignition and run constantly. Just need to pic up a couple of radiator rubber mounts for the two top mounts. The bottom ones were included.

Just a little concerned about the noise in summer with the top off, hoping the scream of the Turbo covers it

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Received a PM from Joel today. His recomendation forstart up is.

It would be advisable to run the camshaft in with the laptop connected and I would normally add/remove fuel and timing to get the engine to run cool at 2500 rpm as the flat tappet cam needs to be run at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes. I would then change the oil and filter before commencing with dynotuning, starting with low rpm and light load progressing to high rpm towards the latter stages as the camshaft needs a couple hour work before running at maximum rpm. The start program may be a way off given the combination of larger injectors and modified camshaft etc.
I wouldn't advise trying to drive the car on the start up program, more harm than good can be done.

Cheers

Joel

 

[malcb]

Received a PM from Joel today. His recomendation forstart up is.

That sounds like a stressful few hours - you have so much thats new and by new I don't mean you bought it and fitted it - it's new design.

Good luck when you get to it, can't wait to see how it works out, with the attention to detail you have shown it should be great.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

That sounds like a stressful few hours - you have so much thats new and by new I don't mean you bought it and fitted it - it's new design.

Good luck when you get to it, can't wait to see how it works out, with the attention to detail you have shown it should be great.

I think JACK will be there to hold my hand in those stressful moments.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Ok Question Time.


I intend to pull the dizzy and with the cordless electric drill and a suitable bit spin the oil pump.
This will oil the engine right through prior to starting.
Now does any one have any idea what the recommended speed would be for the drill.
I assume the dizzy shaft has a set speed in relation to RPM so lets say at an engine RPM of 1000 the drill speed will be ????

 

[Pin_Head]

I assume the dizzy shaft has a set speed in relation to RPM so lets say at an engine RPM of 1000 the drill speed will be ????

Like the cam, the distributor turns at half the crank speed. Any speed that develops oil pressure will be fine. You won't oil the valve rockers unless the slot in the cam lines up with the oil gallery holes in the cam bearing. You have to turn the engine over until oils gets up in the valve train.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Like the cam, the distributor turns at half the crank speed. Any speed that develops oil pressure will be fine. You won't oil the valve rockers unless the slot in the cam lines up with the oil gallery holes in the cam bearing. You have to turn the engine over until oils gets up in the valve train.

I understand that, just good to get the oil filter full and some moving through the system and the oil cooler. It's hard to charge the 2F filter been the way up it is.

So 1000 engine RPM would be 500 RPM at the Dizzy?

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Just popped in to see how the exhaust is coming along.

Decided to push the boat out, a full 3" Stainless Steel system and custom muffler.

This baby is going to howllllllllllllllllllllllll

 

[malcb]

I understand that, just good to get the oil filter full and some moving through the system and the oil cooler. It's hard to charge the 2F filter been the way up it is.

So 1000 engine RPM would be 500 RPM at the Dizzy?

Yup and 500rpm should move cold oil quite well - but it's worth taking the time to rotate the engine so the cam oiler holes are lined up - that was you know the cam bearings are installed correctly and rocker shaft will get oil - although I doubt you will have a problem there - just nice to see it.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

Ok the exhaust is all done

Trailer again.

Time to complete the wiring

Then the fuel system and inter cooler plumbing.

Then hmmmmmmmm is that it I can turn the key

DYNO

 

[matt.mcinnes]

The Auto Elec is looking stressed


While that's been done here is my new Dizzy cap