I use a vann guard 70 for load balancing and run my 12volt accessories off one of the batteries including a fridge which I leave on for days without running the truck. I've never had a problem, I have gauge on a three position switch that i use to check each battery periodically and its always been within .1 volts of each other, and even running the fridge for two days both batteries maybe dropped .2volts. I do use the 2 bank noco charger when parked.
24v advantages (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gold Boy
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Great info! So with the 2 bank noco charger I can just leave the batteries hooked up as normal In the car and just plug in the charger?
Right now I have disconnected both batteries and am charging them separately up to 100%.
Right now I have disconnected both batteries and am charging them separately up to 100%.
Yep, it has two pos and two neg leads one for each battery, some people hard wire and leave it inside the truck at all times and plug it in when they get home, I just did a pigtail that I plug into the unit and leave the unit at home, its fairly big and engine compartment room is already limited.
11 years later...Never say never @dieseldog
Would 2 much cheaper trickle chargers do the same thing just require plugging in 2 plugs?
I have a two bank 12v Battery Tender. I have never attempted to connect it with the batteries connected. Maybe I will give it a shot. I think the worst that would happen is it would blink an error.
Yeah, right! I’m glad it went to a good home, seeing as how a manual transmission is problematic for me now.
The NOCO twin charger is designed to be attached to the two 12v batteries simultaneously, I'm not sure if it has some fancy diode array to prevent current flow weirdness. I know putting one regular trickle charger on a single 12 volt battery in a 24v series pair is OK.
Not sure what two would do, whether they would interact with each other strangely or not. Let us know if you try it!
Not sure what two would do, whether they would interact with each other strangely or not. Let us know if you try it!
Had to poke ya when I came across that post.Yeah, right! I’m glad it went to a good home, seeing as how a manual transmission is problematic for me now.
Squash
SILVER Star
If we lived in a warm climate I would swap my 24v starter to 12v.
Seeing that we do get bouts of -30 to -40 I can tell you nothing turns her over as nicely as a 24v starter.
Good fuel, good glow plugs and when cold out you need to add some coal. I used to add fuel at the IP for winter and decrease for summer.
Currently just using the skinny pedal while my newest 1HD-T get used to dancing together.
Seeing that we do get bouts of -30 to -40 I can tell you nothing turns her over as nicely as a 24v starter.
Good fuel, good glow plugs and when cold out you need to add some coal. I used to add fuel at the IP for winter and decrease for summer.
Currently just using the skinny pedal while my newest 1HD-T get used to dancing together.
24v systems are better for starting in cold environments but the parts availability issue makes it a deal breaker for me. I have 2 12v cruisers with dual batteries and parts are readily available. 24v parts are as scarce as hens teeth so if you want that hassle have at it.
The biggest problem for 24v vehicles is they live in a 12v world.
Not that my opinion matters, but when building my BJ42 I retained the 24v system and built my own wiring harness. 24v makes sense in my application for a winch and compressor. I deleted the centre tap system and have 24v H4 headlights and all other vehicle bulbs are 12-36v LED. For running a battery charger, all one needs to do is have a high amp switch on the + to - jumper wire that runs across the rad. Break the circuit and you have no crank and two 12v batteries. I rock the Noco charger setup.
For reference, I'm using factory Alt+reg, starter and EDIC.
For reference, I'm using factory Alt+reg, starter and EDIC.
