jynx said:
Psh! I don't care. Maybe I'll sell about 5 of them now.
22RE Rebuild vs. PreBuilt
- Thread starter jynx
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Psh! I don't care. Maybe I'll sell about 5 of them now.
- Thread starter
- #22
Psh! I don't care. Maybe I'll sell about 5 of them now.
Whew, I was a little worried about that, didn't think it thru before I threw it out there.
Ya, no offense, but I think you missed your sense of reality.
I don't even wanna think about how much all that stuff is gonna cost.
If you're gonna spend that kind of dough, put in a 3RZ.
I did the rebuild route on my 91 4Runner SR5 V6 (I know its a different motor).
How is the body of the truck? Is it rust free or is it so much of a rust bucket that the paint is all that is holding the body together? If it is all rusty, are you planning on cutting the truck up and turning it into a Truggy at some point?
If the truck is in great shape or you plan on using it for a truggy, I would suggest pulling the block and taking it to a reputable machine shop where the block, crank, and head can be inspected, detected, selected etc. Then you can go from there depending on what needs to be done, though I suspect pretty much everything will need to be done.
When I did my 3VZ-E v6, I had the existing motor rebuilt by a good, local machine shop. They had a few tricks up their sleeve to make the motor more reliable and less prone to blow head gaskets. The bill from the machine shop was nearly half of the cost of an exchange from some place like Jasper, not to mention that I wouldn't have had to deal with crating and shipping anything.
How is the body of the truck? Is it rust free or is it so much of a rust bucket that the paint is all that is holding the body together? If it is all rusty, are you planning on cutting the truck up and turning it into a Truggy at some point?
If the truck is in great shape or you plan on using it for a truggy, I would suggest pulling the block and taking it to a reputable machine shop where the block, crank, and head can be inspected, detected, selected etc. Then you can go from there depending on what needs to be done, though I suspect pretty much everything will need to be done.
When I did my 3VZ-E v6, I had the existing motor rebuilt by a good, local machine shop. They had a few tricks up their sleeve to make the motor more reliable and less prone to blow head gaskets. The bill from the machine shop was nearly half of the cost of an exchange from some place like Jasper, not to mention that I wouldn't have had to deal with crating and shipping anything.
- Thread starter
- #25
Ok I may be a little ambitious, but this is my DD and I am trying to minimize downtime so even though the 3RZ swap is a very attractive and I know based on research it is a relatively easy swap anymore, I know the 22RE will be a straight drop in. And for a little more than a good reman from someone like 22reP, I can have a new OEM shortblock to start from and then finish it out into a nice solid motor.
And $2k to get to a short block is high, but it is an OEM shortblock, and if I had to buy a good used shortblock, have it machined and then drop in new OEM internals, I am guessing I would be in that used block for 1/2 to 2/3 of that new short block.
We shall see how it all plays out. Plus the
said new is good with her.
- Thread starter
- #26
Body is solid, Very very little rust, it has a few dings, but overall in really good shape.
Can you share. I am actually in the middle of putting a 3VZ back together right now for my 88 4Runner and would love to know what they suggest/ did to help the little motor out.
Guys, I really appreciate all the input, obviously this is going to be a significant investment for me and I want to get a good solid motor on the other side.
Thanks,
Matthew
We replaced the crank and rods with those out of a Toyota 3VZ-FE (came in Camry's, they are forged units rather than the stock cast units). Used after market pistons though to keep everything together.
Before machining, they were able to add in material between the block and the water jacket on the number 1 and number 6 cylinders where the head gasket typically blows out.
When I did my 3.0 I did the machine work, replaced all of the parts with new OEM Toyota where prudent (oil pump, water pump, sensors, hoses etc) and upgraded parts where necessary (like ARP head studs, ARP con rod bolts,cometic copper head gaskets). Had the injectors cleaned by witch hunter performance, replaced 2 of them. Replaced the engine wiring harness and ECU.
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor (all new OEM parts). New oil pan. The list goes on.
Though all that said, if your 4Runner has a manual transmission, I would strongly STRONGLY suggest junking the 3.0 and getting a 3.4. After all of the work I put into that motor, time, effor and money, I could have bought a low mileage 3.4 and the complete kit from ORS (when they were still in business), and come out with a better setup than what I wound up with.
- Thread starter
- #28
Wow, you did a number on that little motor. For the V6 I just need a running motor. I am not going all out on it. It is in storage at my folks and has a hole in the block, so I just need to get it moving under it's own power so I can get it up to my place. I will run the rebuild in it for now but I am already scouting for a 4.0 lexus V8 to swap in it when the time comes. This will probably be my family wheeler eventually so It will evolve as time and budget allows.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok, bottom end is decided on, now the question moves onto the head.
So as I mentioned above my head has had some erosion problems between a water jacket and cylinder and has been welded once before and if I am going to spend the money to get a good solid bottom end, I want to put a good head on it.
So since I am not sold on the engnbldr head, I am now looking at the Putney's / 22RePerformance head. The videos on their website sure seem to look like they know what they are doing. Their pro head looks really nice, but do I need oversized valves and the cam or would their basic head do me fine. $550 is about what I would be at for the engbldr head and cam, so the price point is about right, but is the extra 1mm valve and cam grind worth the extra $300.
That would buy a set of LCE rocker arm shafts and a LCE high volume oil pump.
Speaking of, I guess I should throw their Street Performer head in the mix also.
Anybody on here used the Putney Head or have any other suggestions.
Thanks,
So as I mentioned above my head has had some erosion problems between a water jacket and cylinder and has been welded once before and if I am going to spend the money to get a good solid bottom end, I want to put a good head on it.
So since I am not sold on the engnbldr head, I am now looking at the Putney's / 22RePerformance head. The videos on their website sure seem to look like they know what they are doing. Their pro head looks really nice, but do I need oversized valves and the cam or would their basic head do me fine. $550 is about what I would be at for the engbldr head and cam, so the price point is about right, but is the extra 1mm valve and cam grind worth the extra $300.
That would buy a set of LCE rocker arm shafts and a LCE high volume oil pump.
Speaking of, I guess I should throw their Street Performer head in the mix also.
Anybody on here used the Putney Head or have any other suggestions.
Thanks,
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I've heard good things about the LCE kits but I've never run one myself. A good cam goes a long way in an RE tho. If I was building one I'd probably run a pretty big cam with the LCE valve bits. I'm not too familiar with the differences in the heads.
HOLY 
THAT'S SHINY! 
I'm jealous...
Funny side note: They put a silica gel pack in there to keep it fresh.
THAT'S SHINY!
I'm jealous...
Funny side note: They put a silica gel pack in there to keep it fresh.
jynx,
if you are going to spend any money on head "upgrades" i would go with the lc engineering head over anyone else's. (primarily based on quality of other parts i have seen from them).
otherwise, save your money and put the stock replica stuff in.
plus, if you look at lc engineering's site, they use the same head castings in just about all of their different "grade" motors all the way up to the high hp ones...just basically do more extensive port / polishing and bigger valves..
so my bet is that casting is pretty solid to start with. and if you wanted to upgrade later, you could always have work done to it.
also, it couldn't hurt to call these 22re performance places, and engnbldr and ask who makes their casting? they might tell you, might not. but you may find they all have the same casting, so it doesnt matter.
Dart brand used to be very good. but I personally haven't seen anything they have done recently..
Hey lowe,
is there anyway to tell how long that has been on the shelf? would be interesting to know if they batch build based on demand, or has that been sitting somewhere since 1986 ish??
how "NEW" is jynx's "new" block
if you are going to spend any money on head "upgrades" i would go with the lc engineering head over anyone else's. (primarily based on quality of other parts i have seen from them).
otherwise, save your money and put the stock replica stuff in.
plus, if you look at lc engineering's site, they use the same head castings in just about all of their different "grade" motors all the way up to the high hp ones...just basically do more extensive port / polishing and bigger valves..
so my bet is that casting is pretty solid to start with. and if you wanted to upgrade later, you could always have work done to it.
also, it couldn't hurt to call these 22re performance places, and engnbldr and ask who makes their casting? they might tell you, might not. but you may find they all have the same casting, so it doesnt matter.
Dart brand used to be very good. but I personally haven't seen anything they have done recently..
Hey lowe,
is there anyway to tell how long that has been on the shelf? would be interesting to know if they batch build based on demand, or has that been sitting somewhere since 1986 ish??
how "NEW" is jynx's "new" block
KLF, yours is pretty tooo..
is that some sort of aftermarket temp gauge dealy i see in the front freeze plug. please enlighten me.
is that some sort of aftermarket temp gauge dealy i see in the front freeze plug. please enlighten me.
since everyone is showing off their motors....
hopefully this will give jynx some motivation...
hopefully this will give jynx some motivation...
two more...for good measure..
bryan89 said:
I don't know if there's a casting mark anywhere that tells the age but I can assure you it's not been sitting around since 86. They continue to build based on demand so I'm sure this one is fresh. Heck, they're cranking out H55Fs like nobody's business, and that's not even a US trans. Demand is just really good.
is that some sort of aftermarket temp gauge dealy i see in the front freeze plug. please enlighten me.
Block heater: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/504501-block-heater-install.html
Yeah, it bugs me too. I'm hoping to replace the crusty thing with a new high-output something soon.