The problem I was having was removing the 2 studs between the exhaust ports, on the driver's side of the head. Those are always problem bolts, as the heat from the exhaust bakes them to the head. I think having the studs made it easier, as I could get the nuts off and pull the rocker rail, then slowly soak them with AeroKroil and some gentle heat from a propane torch. Lots of gently taps with a plastic dead-blow mallet to get the stuff worked down. It took several cycles and a long soak time, but eventually I was able to get the head loose enough to lift it off, then I could get those 2 studs out. I ended up buying 2 new studs when I put the engine back together, the old ones were pretty corroded and it made me nervous.
A couple of other things to keep in mind:
* It's SUPER important to use the ARP "Ultra-Torque" lubricant when you put the nuts on and torque them down. I believe they give you enough in the box with the studs for the first install, in a little "ketchup packet" kind of thing. Otherwise, you need to get a tube of it.
* If you have the engine in the truck (I know this doesn't apply to you) and you insert all the studs, you can't get the head to drop on. It hits the firewall by the heater valve. What you have to do is leave the back 2 studs out, jockey the head on, then insert the last 2 studs. It can be kinda awkward, especially if you have the intake all attached when you drop the head on.
The nuts are 12-point, BTW, I think 14mm, so make sure you have a good socket for that. The studs have a hex socket formed into the top end, I think 5mm.
A couple of other things to keep in mind:
* It's SUPER important to use the ARP "Ultra-Torque" lubricant when you put the nuts on and torque them down. I believe they give you enough in the box with the studs for the first install, in a little "ketchup packet" kind of thing. Otherwise, you need to get a tube of it.
* If you have the engine in the truck (I know this doesn't apply to you) and you insert all the studs, you can't get the head to drop on. It hits the firewall by the heater valve. What you have to do is leave the back 2 studs out, jockey the head on, then insert the last 2 studs. It can be kinda awkward, especially if you have the intake all attached when you drop the head on.
The nuts are 12-point, BTW, I think 14mm, so make sure you have a good socket for that. The studs have a hex socket formed into the top end, I think 5mm.