22RE Alternator

[WarDamnEagle]

Yes I did search and yes I did read a dozen or so threads on 7 pages of hits. But I just thought I would post my conclusion FWIW and just in case someone has found something new.

The alternator in the 85 4Runner went out on my son last night (while I was flying back from China). I charged the battery enough this morning to drive it the few miles home but it barely made it.

I'm about to order a 60 amp remanufactured Denso unless someone has a drop in alternative that a) is truly drop in and b) doesn't cost over say $200. It was mentioned in one of the threads that a 90 amp Supra alternator works but it sounds like you have to drill out the pully (not too big of a deal) and modify the bracket (possibly big deal). Also I wouldn't know which Supra alternator.

Anyway, that's my conclusion. Suggestions welcome.

 

[pappy]

Stick with the Denso 60a. Unless you need more charging power I wouldn't bother making your life harder. Get it running.

 

[Combat Chuck]

x2.
It doesn't seem necessary to invite complications to the party.


IMO this should end up on the FAQ for those just looking for a quick solution and not needing a ton of extra power.

 

[GRM]

I want to say I installed a 90 amp cressida alternator on my '85.

I saw no noticeable improvement. New truck has a 60 amp without any issue.

I'd put a rebuilt denso 60 on it.

Just make sure to ohm out the main power wire going to the alternator. Ive seen it more than once where you could have some kind of bad crimp, corrosion, or broken wire.

 

[Bogo]

Just make sure to ohm out the main power wire going to the alternator. Ive seen it more than once where you could have some kind of bad crimp, corrosion, or broken wire.

Just replace it with a quality wire, and properly crimp the connectors on it. Don't solder. The current wire is 25 years old and has been through allot of vibration. It's reaching its end of life.

 

[arndog123]

When the alternator's on my 22RE's quit charging it was always the brushes. It takes less than a minute to change out, w/ the alternator out of course and costs around $20 from your local Yota dealer. I replaced my '85's 2 months ago and IIRC it was under $15 shipped from gotmud.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Just replace it with a quality wire, and properly crimp the connectors on it. Don't solder. The current wire is 25 years old and has been through allot of vibration. It's reaching its end of life.

When the alternator's on my 22RE's quit charging it was always the brushes. It takes less than a minute to change out, w/ the alternator out of course and costs around $20 from your local Yota dealer. I replaced my '85's 2 months ago and IIRC it was under $15 shipped from gotmud.

I'm going to pull the old one today. I may have replaced the charge wire already when the new engine was installed but I'll check that as well. I haven't ordered the new one yet so I might start with the brushes as suggested. Nobody drives it daily; we just need it running in time for a week of hunting at Thanksgiving.

 

[KLF]

Don't solder.

Curious why you say this.

I have replaced/upgraded many wires under my hood, all grounds, main starter power, alternator charging wire, etc. Always crimped/soldered/heatshrinked the connectors. Also upgraded all my winch cables, same treatment. Never an issue, they still look great.

 

[pappy]

Curious why you say this.

I have replaced/upgraded many wires under my hood, all grounds, main starter power, alternator charging wire, etc. Always crimped/soldered/heatshrinked the connectors. Also upgraded all my winch cables, same treatment. Never an issue, they still look great.

Ditto. When I rewired my FJ40 the tech I talked with told me to solder, very lightly, but still solder. You don't want to over do it. By using a very fine wired solder you can keep it light.

Brushes are a common failure, and yes, they are a 5 minutes job after the alternator is out of the truck. If course, it seems to always take me an hour to get the damn thing out because of the lower radiator hose. After 300K, and several brush changes, I finally just replaced the whole thing.

Another part to consider replacing is the rubber boot over the terminal. They are still available. I've found multiple uses for those things. I used them on my dual battery isolator and on the aux battery terminals.

 

[arndog123]

Just to be sure, after replacing the brushes I'd take the alternator to an auto parts store and have 'em test it and make sure it's working properly.

 

[Bogo]

When I'm in there I'd replace the diodes/voltage regulator too, but then I tend to be a completest.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well my son and I pulled the alternator. What a pain; having to take the bottom hard radiator pipe loose.

Anyway, the alternator is so muddy from years of mud and grime that I would be surprised if it was able to cool itself at all. I think at this point I'm just going to go new (rebuilt Denso). I'm almost positive that it's the original alternator.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I just scraped enough grim off to read the nameplate and it's a remanufactured Bosch. I don't remember having the alternator replaced but I guess it was at some point while I owned it.

Ordering the Denso now.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Another part to consider replacing is the rubber boot over the terminal. They are still available. I've found multiple uses for those things. I used them on my dual battery isolator and on the aux battery terminals.

Do you have a part number? Local toyota guy couldn't figure it out and it's a bit trivial to bother CDan with.

Also, anybody know what gauge wire they used from the alternator? I'm from the bigger is better school. It looks like either 10g or 12g. I was thinking about using 8...

 

[pappy]

Do you have a part number? Local toyota guy couldn't figure it out and it's a bit trivial to bother CDan with.

Also, anybody know what gauge wire they used from the alternator? I'm from the bigger is better school. It looks like either 10g or 12g. I was thinking about using 8...

Seems when I ran my wire I stole it from a FJ62 harness. I believe it was 8g.

I think the boot is 82823-12020 ($4.06).

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I think the boot is 82823-12020 ($4.06).

That's the right number. Thanks!

 

[toy4xfun]

war eagle use #6 locomotive wire!

or if you can find it in #6 welding lead.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Last question for anyone that has replaced this wire. I was measuring the length today and noticed that the wire goes through a fairly hefty connector just below where the test connectors are located on the driver's firewall. I'm assuming that you just left the old wire in the bundle and ran a new wire through the flex, bypassing this particular connector?

I just want to make sure that I don't need to splice into each side of the connector for some reason (although I can't imagine why).

Thanks!

 

[pappy]

I hate hacking factory wiring. I left my wire in place, but covered the alternator end. I then ran the new wire to my isolator. That way, somebody could go backwards if they wanted.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I hate hacking factory wiring. I left my wire in place, but covered the alternator end. I then ran the new wire to my isolator. That way, somebody could go backwards if they wanted.

Apologies if this is a stupid question but what isolator?

My wire runs from the alternator to that connector that I mentioned (which by the way looks like it has poured seals on both sides so there's no removing a wire from that one) which is about 18 inches from the alternator. From there it goes to the 80 amp fuse in the main fuse box and the other side of that fuse is connected to the positive side of the battery.

Are you referring to the fuse?