Builds 2018 Premium 460 build (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Arriving Wednesday.
Here are a couple better pics

859D277A-2301-4405-9848-9FA395AC9452.jpeg


64B13B20-F6DD-43A3-A2DF-B2E10EBFEF6F.jpeg
 
Just noticed, your air line from the compressor clears your fridge carriage? The photo looks like the air line may rub against the fridge, unless the fridge is much narrower than your carriage tray.
Yep, much narrower.

No chafing or rubbing, by design.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
This is a mod most folks won't do, but I need it on the regular for classes.

I ordered the Kaon transmission shift lock release button. This allows one to shift the trans mission into neutral with out pushing the start button to energize the system. No power, no problem, push the button.

The problem is the GX is different than the Prado. As you can tell the GX button is not compatible with the one Kaon makes with the GX trim.

I thought about it a bit, trimmed the back of the GX trim piece with the Dremel Tool and fabricated a piece of stainless for the push button. Works like a champ!! The GX can now be shifted into neutral with out energizing the electrical system. No more dinging telling me that the trans is in neutral!!
Kaon 1.jpg
Kaon 2.jpg
Kaon 3.jpg
Kaon 1.jpg
Kaon 2.jpg
Kaon 3.jpg
Kaon 4.jpg
Kaon 5.jpg
 
Installed existing trim piece, fabricated a stainless push button, works like a champ! I did paint my push button with orange paint, currently drying. Ill post a picture of that tomorrow.

Kaon 6.jpg
Kaon 7.jpg
Kaon 8.jpg
Kaon 9.jpg
 
That's super handy. My older vehicles had a slot where you'd just jam the key in and it'd let you move the shifter with the engine off. Is that similar - it's just engaging some leaver under that trim piece? The Koan button is just a means to activate it?
 
That's super handy. My older vehicles had a slot where you'd just jam the key in and it'd let you move the shifter with the engine off. Is that similar - it's just engaging some leaver under that trim piece? The Koan button is just a means to activate it?
Correct, the slot is no longer open to the button under the trim. I just cut open the slot and made the stainless push button. I'll keep the stainless button I made in the center console.

Unfortunately the Kaon button doesn't work on the GX. 25 bucks wasted.
 
Last edited:
Correct, the slot is no longer open to the button under the trim. I just cut open the slot and made the stainless push button. I'll keep the stainless button I made in the center console.

Unfortunately the Kaon button doesn't work on the GX. 25 bucks wasted.
Looking at the part in your hand, it was 3D printed on an FDM printer, and not even that high of resolution! You can see the fill lines on your closeup.
Ha-ha! I can make one that looks better than that on my SolidWorks and my resin 3D printer!
Or, like you did just make a metal one!
 
Looking at the part in your hand, it was 3D printed on an FDM printer, and not even that high of resolution! You can see the fill lines on your closeup.
Ha-ha! I can make one that looks better than that on my SolidWorks and my resin 3D printer!
Or, like you did just make a metal one!
Fortunately I emailed Kaon and they refunded the purchase price of the product. I feel that is pretty fair.
 
  • Like
Reactions: r2m
Covered up a bit more of the ugly. Bought some ABS plastic on Amazon, bent it up and made this cover to clean up the rear storage area.


9721F6BE-81FA-4744-81A8-15F06E13804D.jpeg
CC76515E-3233-4E93-AE1A-EB155C2BF620.jpeg
932937C9-0609-48B2-A6FA-090E36F72281.jpeg
 
While working at Expo PNW I temporarily mounted up the Hawse Pro 4.12 roller hawse fairlead for demonstration purposes. This will be going on my business partners 07 Tacoma with a Demello front bumper. He purchased it and we will be conducting long tern test and evaluation. We often pull line numerous times over the course of a training event so this will see many more cycles than a recitational user will ever use there winch.

The Roller Hawse mitigates the high friction of the Hawse fairlead under a heavy load thus lower temperatures and melting of synthetic winch line.

The price point on this has come down quite a bit as the manufacturing process has been streamlined and now retails for $369.00. This is going too be a fun vetting process.


HAWSE Fairleads—The Original HawsePro™ Next Generation Roller Fairlead - https://hawsepro.com/


HP1.jpg
HP2.jpg
 
While working at Expo PNW I temporarily mounted up the Hawse Pro 4.12 roller hawse fairlead for demonstration purposes. This will be going on my business partners 07 Tacoma with a Demello front bumper. He purchased it and we will be conducting long tern test and evaluation. We often pull line numerous times over the course of a training event so this will see many more cycles than a recitational user will ever use there winch.

The Roller Hawse mitigates the high friction of the Hawse fairlead under a heavy load thus lower temperatures and melting of synthetic winch line.

The price point on this has come down quite a bit as the manufacturing process has been streamlined and now retails for $369.00. This is going too be a fun vetting process.


HAWSE Fairleads—The Original HawsePro™ Next Generation Roller Fairlead - https://hawsepro.com/


View attachment 3056859View attachment 3056860
I was taught to never use synthetic line with a roller fairlead, but looking at how smooth the transition is from vertical to horizontal, I may change my mind.
But again, looking at the price... Hummm. For how often I use mine, maybe I'll just stay with my aluminum one.
Although, maybe later??
 
I was taught to never use synthetic line with a roller fairlead, but looking at how smooth the transition is from vertical to horizontal, I may change my mind.
But again, looking at the price... Hummm. For how often I use mine, maybe I'll just stay with my aluminum one.
Although, maybe later??
The price online is no longer correct. The 4 roller runs $369.00 and the 2 roller is less but I'm unsure ($295?).

Roller fairleads are a better fairlead for synthetic line. Amsteel Blue (HMWPE) starts to melt @ 150 degrees, Cortland Rope (HMPE) starts to melt @ 185 degrees. A Hawse fairlead sitting out in the hot sun can easily have a surface temp of 100 degrees.

Stick your 6500 lbs overland GX in a hole, one tire buried, climbing out of a 4, 5, 6, degree climb and your stuck assessment weight can easily reach 9000 lbs +. Most vehicles our size run a 10k winch. Vehicle and equipment sympathy should be considered as you are close to maximum capacity.

I would rig up a double line pull to lower the over all load on the recovery equipment. lower amp draw, and longer duty cycle on the winch during operation.

The line speed of the recovery is reduced using a double line pull, pulling a heavy load over a Hawse fairlead will melt rope. It may not part the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd time but it will and more than likely at the worst moment.
 
Great tips!
I do carry a snatch block with my recovery gear for such a purpose.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom