Builds 2016 GX Overland Build

[VirginiaCruiser]

question to the OP what coil springs and rate are you running for this bumper ?

I’m stock right now, I have ordered Radflo 2.5 series coilovers with #700 springs and believe this will be the ticket

I also have a warn winch ready to be installed which will pull it further down

I’m not able to give a good answer as to what is best, maybe someone with more experience will step in

 

[RussianGx]

I’m stock right now, I have ordered Radflo 2.5 series coilovers with #700 springs and believe this will be the ticket

I also have a warn winch ready to be installed which will pull it further down

I’m not able to give a good answer as to what is best, maybe someone with more experience will step in

how does it ride stock with that heavy bumper any issues ?

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

how does it ride stock with that heavy bumper any issues ?

It rides fine, I could notice the first drive, but no perceivable change now

it’s around an inch lower in the front with the bumper, I personally don’t care, I realize I’m waiting for my lift

I wouldn’t run with the bumper stock for a permanent solution, IMHO you need a suspension upgrade to carry the weight

For now, it’s fine

 

[sfotex]

Ugh, I hope I'm past the worst part.

 

[sfotex]

Pro tip for future installers. Install the inner bumper brackets without the channel nut, then after the bracket is in place you can push it back and install the nut from behind and push it into place so your not fighting clearance.

I was undecided on how to handle the cooling lines over the brackets. My dad suggested I use some RTV to encase the lines in place, so I'm trying that route. Yesterday was 'I think I bit off more then I can chew' , but today went really well and I'm hope I'm over the hump!

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

Pro tip for future installers. Install the inner bumper brackets without the channel nut, then after the bracket is in place you can push it back and install the nut from behind and push it into place so your not fighting clearance.

I was undecided on how to handle the cooling lines over the brackets. My dad suggested I use some RTV to encase the lines in place, so I'm trying that route. Yesterday was 'I think I bit off more then I can chew' , but today went really well and I'm hope I'm over the hump!

I trimmed my mounts to allow the coolant lines to remain in the stock place

 

[sfotex]

I trimmed my mounts to allow the coolant lines to remain in the stock place

Yeah, I trimmed a lot to make room and modified some of the coolant brackets to work, but it was still pretty tight around the bumper brackets, so I used some RTV to keep the lines away from possibly touching any metal.



Ok, I got the wiring done last night and have fog lights, blinkers, and the sensors working.

The only thing left is the center rok guard. It looks like you need to remove the factory skid plate to get that on. Does the plate go UNDER the factory skid plate, and you can put the skid plate back on top? Or is the factory skid plate incompatible with the Ironman bumper?

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

Yeah, I trimmed a lot to make room and modified some of the coolant brackets to work, but it was still pretty tight around the bumper brackets, so I used some RTV to keep the lines away from possibly touching any metal.



Ok, I got the wiring done last night and have fog lights, blinkers, and the sensors working.

The only thing left is the center rok guard. It looks like you need to remove the factory skid plate to get that on. Does the plate go UNDER the factory skid plate, and you can put the skid plate back on top? Or is the factory skid plate incompatible with the Ironman bumper?

I trimmed my factory skid plate to fit over the iron man

my recommendation is to mount the ironman plate, then mount the factory skid plate plate, with two bolts in rear to allow you to a align everything

mark what you need to trim, the cut will be flush with the mounts for the bolts, in the front, you will see

you can get a larger m8 1.25 bolt from Napa

stock bolt length is 3/4 inch, I would recommend 1” or 1.25 inch, the front bolts have nothing to interfere with in reason if using a longer bolt, less than 1.5” will be fine

 

[Tex68w]

I split some larger fuel hose to encase my lines, worked nicely.

I need to consider running the lower skid plate over the Ironman skid plate, they touch and I am pretty sure that's where I am getting metal to metal contact and vibe noises from over choppy roads.

 

[sfotex]

Wowsers, got it done. I cut the front lip off of the factory skid plate and put it over the rock guard. Still need to pin the bumper, but I'm going to wait until I install the lift kit so I can level the bumper if needed.

What did you all do , if anything, to tie the wheel well into the bumper. It looks like there are 3 bolts holes in the side rock guards inside the wheel well.

The only parts I have left I'm not sure about:
2 thick washers.
2 thin long bolts with hardwear, doesn't look like a structural part.
2 short black brackets with 3 holes in them.

Any ideas?

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

Wowsers, got it done. I cut the front lip off of the factory skid plate and put it over the rock guard. Still need to pin the bumper, but I'm going to wait until I install the lift kit so I can level the bumper if needed.

What did you all do , if anything, to tie the wheel well into the bumper. It looks like there are 3 bolts holes in the side rock guards inside the wheel well.

The only parts I have left I'm not sure about:
2 thick washers.
2 thin long bolts with hardwear, doesn't look like a structural part.
2 short black brackets with 3 holes in them.

Any ideas?

The black brackets are supports for the winch mount and quite needed. take a pic so we can tell you for sure

I trimmed the liner to fit inside the lip of the underskirts for the wings

this allowed movement of the bumper, but also kept the mud out

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

I split some larger fuel hose to encase my lines, worked nicely.

I need to consider running the lower skid plate over the Ironman skid plate, they touch and I am pretty sure that's where I am getting metal to metal contact and vibe noises from over choppy roads.

After my aggressive trim on my factory skid, I have not had vibrations at all, if you do some bumper trim on the joining edge could work

 

[sfotex]

Some pics.

 

[Tex68w]

My inner fender liners are open above the bumper wings. I got aggressive with them when I did the trim/chop to the factory plastic prior to the bumper install. I definitely to look into running the engine skid plate under the bumper plate.

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

Some pics.

View attachment 2452105

View attachment 2452106

View attachment 2452107

View attachment 2452108

Not sure what the bolts are for but it looks good

I used the stuff below for the trim, it has metal clips inside that really hold tight

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

I have mounted my ARB twin in the truck finally

I used a Slee mount which fit like a glove, as expected, except the mounting hole on the fender were filled with compacted dirt inside the bolt holes

I ended up running a small drill bit through the hole to clear it, then brake cleaner, then a 6mm 1.25 tap, worked like a charm

I bought an aftermarket switch to control the compressor from the cab, which turned out great

I’m very impressed with the ARB twin I wish I would have bought it sooner, I’m still running my old Viar in the 80 series, which works great if your not in a hurry

I have also bought some parts from Wits End to allow me to run an airline to the front bumper with a quick disconnect. It will be nice to have a hard mounted compressor, and a factory looking switch

 

[r2m]

I have mounted my ARB twin in the truck finally

I used a Slee mount which fit like a glove, as expected, except the mounting hole on the fender were filled with compacted dirt inside the bolt holes

I ended up running a small drill bit through the hole to clear it, then brake cleaner, then a 6mm 1.25 tap, worked like a charm

I bought an aftermarket switch to control the compressor from the cab, which turned out great

I’m very impressed with the ARB twin I wish I would have bought it sooner, I’m still running my old Viar in the 80 series, which works great if your not in a hurry

I have also bought some parts from Wits End to allow me to run an airline to the front bumper with a quick disconnect. It will be nice to have a hard mounted compressor, and a factory looking switch

View attachment 2458505

View attachment 2458506

If you go to my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
at post # 74, you'll see how I mounted my air attachments and air hose under the hood also.
This is hugely handy when ever you need to use your compressor. All your air line and attachments are right where your compressor is. Makes sense not to have to dig around in the back of your rig when the compressor is at the other end!
I also purchased a pack of reusable cable ties:
Amazon product ASIN B00YARJ14AAnd I use one of those to attach the hose to the compressor. I keep the rest of the cable ties in the back for whatever I may need to tie up without wasting them.

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

If you go to my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
at post # 74, you'll see how I mounted my air attachments and air hose under the hood also.
This is hugely handy when ever you need to use your compressor. All your air line and attachments are right where your compressor is. Makes sense not to have to dig around in the back of your rig when the compressor is at the other end!
I also purchased a pack of reusable cable ties:
Amazon product ASIN B00YARJ14AAnd I use one of those to attach the hose to the compressor. I keep the rest of the cable ties in the back for whatever I may need to tie up without wasting them.

I’ll check it out thanks

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

If you go to my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
at post # 74, you'll see how I mounted my air attachments and air hose under the hood also.
This is hugely handy when ever you need to use your compressor. All your air line and attachments are right where your compressor is. Makes sense not to have to dig around in the back of your rig when the compressor is at the other end!
I also purchased a pack of reusable cable ties:
Amazon product ASIN B00YARJ14AAnd I use one of those to attach the hose to the compressor. I keep the rest of the cable ties in the back for whatever I may need to tie up without wasting them.

One concern I have is the hose getting loose and wrapping around something that spins like the belt or fan

 

[r2m]

One concern I have is the hose getting loose and wrapping around something that spins like the belt or fan

Several reasons it should never happen:

1. It's coiled over the SS braided air line so it has a fixed point to which it is attached and can't shift too much.
2. It cannot come uncoiled because both (male and female) ends are connected together to keep dirt out of the line and prevent a loose end from dangling.
3. It's a pretty large cable tie and everything is far enough from the engine, exhaust and other "hot" items to not cause any issues. Heck, use 2 cable ties if you like!

I've driven 10's of thousands of miles including severe washboard, rock crawling, many, many many dirt trails with this setup and NEVER had any issues at all, not even coming loose, only the convenience having everything right were I need it.