2014 LC Brake Upgrade For Towing

[basis]

Hello all,
I have a stock 2014 LC with 55k miles. I’m looking to tow a 6500 lb (dry) travel trailer and started reading all the threads here around brake upgrades (there’s a lot of them). While I’m not sure I need upgraded brakes, it would give me a bit more peace of mind.

It seems like the minimum I could do would be to add the trd brake pads while keeping all other parts stock (these fit on all 4 wheels, correct?):

Can Anyone Confirm TRD Brake Pads Fitment on 2014


After this, there seem to be many upgrade paths that deviate from OEM such as the Jowett:

Land Cruiser 200 Series 354 mm Brake kit 2008 - 2015

I do not have the ability (skill) to install / diagnose / repair mechanical problems, so I’d be relying on the dealer. Also, if aftermarket parts would fail while traveling on the road, having a Toyota dealer may be the only option - so I’m leaning towards just the pads.


Can anyone comment on stock vs trd pads vs full aftermarket solution in terms of my towing / daily driving application?

I’m trying to trade off braking performance and (perceived) reliability / repairability. I’ve had a lot of aftermarket components added and failed to vehicles over the years, and I do not want to play russian roulette in a heavy towing application with the family.

Thanks!

 

[Romer]

I tow a 4500 dry camper all over the mountains with stock brakes with no issues. Does your trailer have electric brakes?

 

[basis]

Yes, the trailer has electric brakes. I’m having the trailer dealer install a brake controller.

 

[Romer]

Personally I would try and see how it does. On a slow traffic time take it some place that represents a challenge your concerned about. With the right brake controller you also should be able to program the brakes and manually excersize them more if the situation warrants..

I did upgrade my brake rotors to DBA drilled and slotted. That provides better response and keeps the rotors from getting as hot

 

[Malleus]

If you have trailer brakes and a controller, you'll be fine. IMO, there's nothing you can do to the stock brakes to make up for lack of trailer brakes.

 

[chilibit]

Of course it comes down to the individual --- but the trailer shop opening my dash to find the brake controller socket gives me pause. I cannot imagine that this is a frequently seen tow vehicle.

 

[IOPTURBO]

Of course it comes down to the individual --- but the trailer shop opening my dash to find the brake controller socket gives me pause. I cannot imagine that this is a frequently seen tow vehicle.

The plug is right there under the dash, you don't have to do anything to get to it. Where are they going to place the controller?

 

[basis]

I bought a Redar tow pro elite and it’s coming in the mail. I want this to mount under the dash (not to bump legs / knees / airbag problems) and fill a blank to the right of the steering wheel. I want to keep an OEM look (I also got the insert panel and the 30A circuit breaker kit).

Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller

I have the trailer brake jumper harness that came with the vehicle (white with 5 prongs - pic attached).

Anything I should alert them to / pictures? The trailer dealer says they sell 150 a month and has been around for 40 years. I did speak to the guy who puts in the brake controllers and he hadn’t put in one of these in the past. The alternative is I could take it to a local stereo shop I’ve used in the past who I know does good work.

 

[TeCKis300]

Can anyone comment on stock vs trd pads vs full aftermarket solution in terms of my towing / daily driving application?

I’m trying to trade off braking performance and (perceived) reliability / repairability. I’ve had a lot of aftermarket components added and failed to vehicles over the years, and I do not want to play russian roulette in a heavy towing application with the family.

Thanks!

Personally, I absolutely believe in the stock components when it comes down to really heavy duty use. The quality control and validation is more important to me. Like you, I've played with enough aftermarket stuff over the years, that it's often a hit or miss. While a marketed quality might be better, it's often at the expense of some other quality. I've raced cars, so for track use, it's a different ball game which I will change up pads for. But may still prefer the OEM rotor.

I tow a pretty darn heavy trailer. When refreshing my brakes, I considered aftermarket options. In the end. I went full OEM replacement front rotors and pads all around.

Reasons:
1) OEM brakes walk a better balance of qualities: cold vs hot vs wet pad performance, rotor wear, life, dust, quality control.
2) I have more faith in OEM rotors for really high temp use, as over many heat cycles, they generally prove more durable with better metallurgy. I very much dislike drilled or slotted aftermarket rotors as each feature is a stress riser. A new rotor is always a good thing as it has the most mass to sink the heat from converted kinetic energy. Though at 55k miles, you likely still have plenty of life.
3) TRD pads may be a good thing if you just feel better with having a better pad. This is where I may put my money as it's validated better than most aftermarket applications. It's for sure going to have a higher MOT (maximum operating temperature), which will help the brakes have higher heat capacity before fading. The trade-off will be more rotor wear, life, and dust, and perhaps less cold bite.
4) Funny enough is that the best upgrade you can do is likely not in the car. Trailer brakes use ancient technology. And likely don't even have enough torque to fully lock the wheels. There's disk brake upgrades (from drum) that are availalbe to most trailer axles.

The LC is a GREAT tow vehicle. Enjoy!

 

[wardharris]

I am not chiming in as a vendor here to sell parts, but to comment on use of OEM components. We all have opinions and I am not going to offer mine or take exception with others. You all know a lot - in many cases more than me.

That said, we know folks that operate and supply specialty operators of Land Cruisers in extreme conditions - primarily agriculture, mining and military fleets. From what we have seen, there are three solution models: 1) OEM, 2) cheap aftermarket, 3) upgraded aftermarket. The latter ranges from good quality slotted/drilled rotors and composite/combo pads to sealed "wet brake" systems.

The competing/conflictive issues are performance (distance, fade, linear track, shudder), longevity and cost - for the most part. In some areas, access to OEM and upgraded components is an issue.

Cruiser Brothers serves the armor upgrade market with a range of products from Terrain Tamer and other partner suppliers, including brake rotors/pads, brake boosters, armored brake lines, clutches, elockers and even transmission conversions from 5 speed manual to 6 speed Tiptronic AB60F.

For those customers running heavy, running hard or keenly interested in maintaining forward motion under fire, OEM just doesn't cut it.

While most of us have less stressful operating conditions, a heavily loaded 200 towing a decent sized trailer creates some similar functional challenges and most fleet operators that are not cost-cutters will go upgraded aftermarket.

Final note - drilled, slotted and beveled rotors are popular because they disperse heat, which is a primary source of wear, rotor warpage, pad wear and general degradation of performance.

If you are happy with OEM Toyota, or TRD, great. I am just offering a view from the other side. An armored 79 Series can hit a GVW of 20,000 lbs with crew, passengers, weapons and consumables. Your 200 could be half that plus trailer - ya?

Not one of our customer rigs (confidentiality clause in contracts) below, but similar.

 

[Bendcruiser]

Of course it comes down to the individual --- but the trailer shop opening my dash to find the brake controller socket gives me pause. I cannot imagine that this is a frequently seen tow vehicle.

Just had local trailer shop install my brake controller. I watched him and it was a piece of cake. No issues at all and it works great.

 

[JS22STL]

Just had local trailer shop install my brake controller. I watched him and it was a piece of cake. No issues at all and it works great.

Share a pic of the install please

 

[Bendcruiser]

Here’s a pic of location. I used 2 small screws to attach using factory drilled holes.

 

[Romer]

Thats were mine is as well

 

[blatant]

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[blatant]

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[blatant]

The plug is right there under the dash, you don't have to do anything to get to it. Where are they going to place the controller?

Regarding the controller plug, can you just reach up and plug into it with whatever toyota adapter is needed and your good to go? Anything to take apart to actually get to it or is it a reach up and snap it in, 5 minute plug and play and then mount it and you're set? I've never looked as my trailer is fairly light.

 

[Dan Higgins]

Install was easy. Took my trailer place all of 15 mins. If your trailer place seemed confused then maybe you need to find a new trailer place.

Stock is working great for me. Plenty of towing our 6,000# TT in the mountains. I did replace the front brakes at 33K because I was heading out on a long road trip (no trailer) and just wanted to have everything perfect. Rear brakes have plenty of life in them.

Important: If you are towing anything over a ton you should NOT be relying on your LC brakes. As others have pointed out, it is the trailer brakes that should stop the trailer. If "upgrading" your brakes gives you a false sense of security that is a bad thing. It is not just about the weight of your trailer but about the length as well.

And of course, any downhill runs in the mountains should be done with a heave dose of engine braking. Again, thinking that a brake upgrade will allow you to rely solely on the brakes to manage speed and TT/TV behavior going downhill in the mountains is a bad idea. Go slow (like the loaded semis do) using engine braking with only an occasional tap on the brakes. I suspect that I use my brakes less when towing because I use engine braking a LOT more. Even when driving on the flats. I anticipate the need to slow more and begin downshifting. When I'm not towing I probably pay much less attention to that.

 

[Bendcruiser]

Just back from 600 mile trailer road trip. First with my 2015 LC. Pulling my Lance model 1475 weighing about 3200 loaded. No comparison to my 4Runner felt solid and firm. I use a WDH and brake controller and it all matched up perfectly. I averaged about 60 MPH on the highways went over some steep passes no issues at all. MPG about 11 which was to be expected. All and all very pleased with the performance and level ride. 3600 mile trip in June , feeling good about that now.

 

[basis]

I picked up the trailer yesterday - the Redarc controller and stock trailer drum brakes worked fine. I have a fairly steep hill near my house and the brakes worked on the way down quite well - I also used engine braking.

On the highway I maxed out at 60 mph, but mostlhy kept it a bit slower as I’m new to this. There was fairly strong wind gusts but the sway bars on the hitch helped with keeping it stable. Straight and flat is easy, now I just have to work on my turning!