2011 Land cruiser is it worth it! (1 Viewer)

[Moosestache]

Hi all. I have started looking at a 2011 land cruiser with 90000 miles on it. I haven't bought it yet and today I brought it to a mechanic I know, not a toyota guy. It is from Maine and been here its whole life, so rust is my biggest concern. It ran well and inside and outside it is in good shape. When we got it up on the lift things got worse. It was all dry, so that was good, but we found 3 of the brake lines that will need to be replaced and the KDSS system is all rusted up. I have no idea if the KDSS system is working, and it looks like it would need to be replaced. I guess my question is, does anyone have any idea how expensive it is to replace, and if it is even possible to replace it. I guess my other question is if it is integral to the working of the land cruiser. I mean, should it be replaced, are there other options, if it fails am I dead in the water. I got him down to $30,000 before this, so just looking for any advise.

Thanks!

 

[tplane2]

Walk away my man, rust is the devil.

 

[TonyP]

Not even remotely worth it.

 

[Sandroad]

If it's rusted so bad in 6 years that brake lines need replacing and you wonder about suspension components, don't buy it. The other chassis parts will be rusty too. The KDSS is integral to the overall suspension system, although it will run and operate without it. I'm certain it would be very expensive to replace and there are no alternatives. The ride and handling would be awful without it operating correctly.

 

[Rigger]

What they said.

Head for the exit. No sale.

 

[Markuson]

KDSS is quite expensive if you have to replace it. Thousands with an S. Maybe $4k+

You can fly SouthWest a whole lotta times looking at Cruisers out of the rust zone for much less than one KDSS replacement...

 

[sPaulp]

Hi all. I have started looking at a 2011 land cruiser with 90000 miles on it. I haven't bought it yet and today I brought it to a mechanic I know, not a toyota guy. It is from Maine and been here its whole life, so rust is my biggest concern. It ran well and inside and outside it is in good shape. When we got it up on the lift things got worse. It was all dry, so that was good, but we found 3 of the brake lines that will need to be replaced and the KDSS system is all rusted up. I have no idea if the KDSS system is working, and it looks like it would need to be replaced. I guess my question is, does anyone have any idea how expensive it is to replace, and if it is even possible to replace it. I guess my other question is if it is integral to the working of the land cruiser. I mean, should it be replaced, are there other options, if it fails am I dead in the water. I got him down to $30,000 before this, so just looking for any advise.

Thanks!

Pictures would help, but based on your comments I may be one to take a closer look. There have been a couple of Mud members with really rusted KDSS valves and were able to get them freed up, but the brake lines could be a sign of things to come. However, if you can get an '11 LC with 90k miles on it for under $30k, then it may be worth the effort of replacing a few parts and then scraping the undercarriage and utilizing fluid film. On the other hand, if you are able to get it for under $30k then the old saying is if it sounds too good to be true......Ultimately I think it boils down to what your plans are for this rig. If it's a DD and you don't plan to lift it, then maybe @Markuson and others can chime in but I don't believe there is a need to loosen the KDSS valves. To my understanding, those who have loosened 3 turns and re-tightened have done so to aid when lifting the vehicle. So, depending on how bad the surface rust is around the KDSS system, it may be salvageable with some preventative maintenance now and moving forward. As Mark said, you can buy many plane tickets for the amount of money to replace a KDSS and ultimately rusty vehicles is what inspired me to fly south and buy a rust free 2011 LC. Keep us informed and again, if you are able to secure pictures and post them here, there are many great members that will be able to advise you properly. Good luck either way.

 

[KLF]

I posted this in the SQOD thread but never got a response.

As someone also looking in the NorthEast region (and perhaps further), can someone tell me where this KDSS valve is located? Pictures would help. Wondering how much rust is "too much".

TIA...

 

[Moosestache]

Pictures would help, but based on your comments I may be one to take a closer look. There have been a couple of Mud members with really rusted KDSS valves and were able to get them freed up, but the brake lines could be a sign of things to come. However, if you can get an '11 LC with 90k miles on it for under $30k, then it may be worth the effort of replacing a few parts and then scraping the undercarriage and utilizing fluid film. On the other hand, if you are able to get it for under $30k then the old saying is if it sounds too good to be true......Ultimately I think it boils down to what your plans are for this rig. If it's a DD and you don't plan to lift it, then maybe @Markuson and others can chime in but I don't believe there is a need to loosen the KDSS valves. To my understanding, those who have loosened 3 turns and re-tightened have done so to aid when lifting the vehicle. So, depending on how bad the surface rust is around the KDSS system, it may be salvageable with some preventative maintenance now and moving forward. As Mark said, you can buy many plane tickets for the amount of money to replace a KDSS and ultimately rusty vehicles is what inspired me to fly south and buy a rust free 2011 LC. Keep us informed and again, if you are able to secure pictures and post them here, there are many great members that will be able to advise you properly. Good luck either way.

Living in Maine and keeping vehicles more than a couple years you get used to replacing brake lines. Land cruisers are very very rare here so when a truck with 90k and 2011 shows up for $350000 it is a hard sell. I think that helps the price a bit here. I am not adverse to flying down south to buy a vehicle, but what are similar vehicles going for down there? If I can buy it for $25000 isit a good deal?

Thanks for the help guys. I had a 95 I fixed up 15 years ago and I miss her!

 

[sPaulp]

Living in Maine and keeping vehicles more than a couple years you get used to replacing brake lines. Land cruisers are very very rare here so when a truck with 90k and 2011 shows up for $350000 it is a hard sell. I think that helps the price a bit here. I am not adverse to flying down south to buy a vehicle, but what are similar vehicles going for down there? If I can buy it for $25000 isit a good deal?

Thanks for the help guys. I had a 95 I fixed up 15 years ago and I miss her!

If you can get an '11 LC with only 90k miles for $25k, then I would say the consensus here on the forum would be HECK YES. Granted, without pictures, it's hard to give you sensible advice but I can't imagine the rust on this only 6 year old rig is unsalvageable. I'm sure you know what a really bad rusted vehicle looks like as you live in the NE. So, if you are considering this purchase, then I can only assume the rust isn't that bad. Again, you could scrape most of the surface rust and then fluid film it. The KDSS may not be an issue if you're not lifting it. So, $25k sounds like a steal. Hopefully others chime in, but is there anyway you can snap some pictures of underneath and post here?

 

[TeCKis300]

I say it comes down to the value proposition. A 2011, w/ 90k, @ $30k. That's not bad in my book and gets you into a nice relatively new top of the line LC. Sure it has some rust, but what car doesn't in that neck of the woods. It depends on the extent of it. But if you maintain it and stay on top of it, proactively addressing issues and treating areas, the LC still has a long long long life ahead of it.

The KDSS has been a problem area for many of these trucks, so I wouldn't take that as a deal breaker. It's a supplementary dynamic sway system after all. These probably can easily be ripped out and retrofitted with a standard sway bar mechanism. It's not really a maintenance item. Other than needing to get at the valves to mod, there's no reason to touch it. They've proven to work otherwise.

 

[TonyP]

I posted this in the SQOD thread but never got a response.

As someone also looking in the NorthEast region (and perhaps further), can someone tell me where this KDSS valve is located? Pictures would help. Wondering how much rust is "too much".

TIA...

From the FAQ

KDSS valve rust- WARNING

KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...

 

[Moosestache]

I plan on calling the dealership tomorrow to see if they have any clue what the KDSS system is, and if so, if they have any idea what it will costs to replace it. If they tell me I will let you all know. I do go into the willy wacks sometimes and my concern with something like that is catastrophic failure in the middle of no where leaving me stranded. I am not that worried about the car leaning a little to one side or another, or not tracking perfectly as long as it is fixable. If I get this I don't plan on changing much of anything. I replaced the springs and shocks and bumper on the last one, I am to old for that stuff now.

 

[Markuson]

I plan on calling the dealership tomorrow to see if they have any clue what the KDSS system is, and if so, if they have any idea what it will costs to replace it. If they tell me I will let you all know. I do go into the willy wacks sometimes and my concern with something like that is catastrophic failure in the middle of no where leaving me stranded. I am not that worried about the car leaning a little to one side or another, or not tracking perfectly as long as it is fixable. If I get this I don't plan on changing much of anything. I replaced the springs and shocks and bumper on the last one, I am to old for that stuff now.

The KDSS being completely rusted over is a concern if ever you want to adjust your suspension or replace it...level your truck, etc. Yes, rusted KDSS valves have been successfully unstuck, but it can be a huge pain, and doesn't always come free.

Catastrophic failure is less likely, but future difficulty in upgrades is certain if it's locked due to rust.

Personally, I'd run. You can do better. Maybe not in your neighborhood...but it's worth venturing outward, IMHO.

 

[bjowett]

Stay away from the rusted units... the headaches are not worth it.

 

[JOFS]

I suspect it is worth it. It all depends on your perspective. I bought a 2005 in 2009 for a low price. It had some rust on it. I fixed stuff as it came up and used fluid film on it. I also did all the maintenance stuff. I just traded it in towards a new one and they gave me way more than I expected and so I paid a very low price per year for a vehicle I used for 8 years. I also put 140K miles on it. It never broke down or had any issues.

If you plan to drive it and not mod it and not keep it forever you likely will do OK. Fluid film can be your friend and extend the period of time where rust is present before it becomes an issue. It also can help if it is rusty and you need to remove parts. It makes the process much easier.

I am in Maine as well and there are very few around. This site has a huge range of opinions but if you are looking for a truck you are going to drive and use in the winter in Maine it will eventually end up with rust no matter what you do.

I have cruisers so I can get anywhere I need to in the winter. I have studded snows and feel comfortable putting my wife and kids in any one of my trucks and sending them out on the road. I also use fluid film to slow rust but realize that a vehicle is a tool and will only last for a period of time. If you want a truck to keep forever get one from the south and don't drive it in the winter. If you want a truck that is safe and will get you through the weather in the winter this sounds like a reasonable deal.

Again many folks likely will not agree with this.

If you need any help that I can offer I am in the central Maine area and am willing to help. I am not a mechanic by any stretch but have been playing with cruisers for a while.

John

 

[Moosestache]

I suspect it is worth it. It all depends on your perspective. I bought a 2005 in 2009 for a low price. It had some rust on it. I fixed stuff as it came up and used fluid film on it. I also did all the maintenance stuff. I just traded it in towards a new one and they gave me way more than I expected and so I paid a very low price per year for a vehicle I used for 8 years. I also put 140K miles on it. It never broke down or had any issues.

If you plan to drive it and not mod it and not keep it forever you likely will do OK. Fluid film can be your friend and extend the period of time where rust is present before it becomes an issue. It also can help if it is rusty and you need to remove parts. It makes the process much easier.

I am in Maine as well and there are very few around. This site has a huge range of opinions but if you are looking for a truck you are going to drive and use in the winter in Maine it will eventually end up with rust no matter what you do.

I have cruisers so I can get anywhere I need to in the winter. I have studded snows and feel comfortable putting my wife and kids in any one of my trucks and sending them out on the road. I also use fluid film to slow rust but realize that a vehicle is a tool and will only last for a period of time. If you want a truck to keep forever get one from the south and don't drive it in the winter. If you want a truck that is safe and will get you through the weather in the winter this sounds like a reasonable deal.

Again many folks likely will not agree with this.

If you need any help that I can offer I am in the central Maine area and am willing to help. I am not a mechanic by any stretch but have been playing with cruisers for a while.

John

Do you know how to replace a KDSS system? J/k. Probably there isn't a right or wrong answer. It all ends up being money I guess.

 

[KLF]

Thank you for posting those threads on the KDSS corrosion concerns, I will be sure to look at that closely as I inspect prospects. I'm curious... what happens if you turn the valve plugs out more than 3 turns? The dire warnings have me thinking that the engine siezes or something similar.

Keeping corrosion at bay in this area is always a challenge. My '87 truck is rust free only because I keep it marinating in Fluid Film, and once a year it gets undercoated with 90W gear lube. Yes it stinks for a few days but it works. A couple of other products that I have had very good luck with is an Amsoil spray called Heavy Duty Metal Protector, and another waxy liquid called RusFre. The Amsoil stuff sounds like the LPS-3 that someone mentioned in the other threads, it sprays on very fluid but eventually cures to a thin coating. It's also a good motorcycle chain lube. I have been spraying this on the trailer hitch in our Highlander for years, and even after 14 years and 190K miles, it still looks new, which is very rare (most are really rusty). There's a guy right down the street from me that is a dealer, so I can get it easily and at a slight discount.

The RusFre stuff is actually much thicker, it's hard to spray without the right gun (which I have), doesn't have any odor, but you can also just brush it on. I like spraying it inside frame rails. It looks like chicken gravy when it comes out of the jug, gets thicker if it is cold, so what I do is pour it into the jug of my sprayer, warm it up in the microwave, then run out and start spraying. Amazon sells it now. It's probably what I would use to protect the KDSS valve (the clear, not the rubberized undercoat), or the Amsoil stuff. I think both will last a lot longer than Fluid Film.

 

[JOFS]

I bet you never have to touch the KDSS system.

I bet if you replace the lines and spray it yearly with fluid film you will not deal with another rust related issue for at least 5 years.

The issue I had was AC lines in my 100 series. Where the rear was fed from the front was rusted. Yes it was a big pain to repair but I did it by being patient.

You are right it is all about money. I still want a truck i can drive and realize that with any vehicle lots can go wrong and you can spend lots of money. My experience has been that you are much less likely to have that issue with a land cruiser. Even a rusty one.

I have heard that the Maine DOT trucks now get yearly brake lines due to the stuff they are using for snow and ice.

 

[TonyP]

Do you know how to replace a KDSS system? J/k. Probably there isn't a right or wrong answer. It all ends up being money I guess.

For just the accumulator and valves you're looking at $1400 parts only, each cylinder is about $600 which you'll need 4 of. Those are probably the most expensive parts plus the hundreds of little things you'd need. Labor is another story, it would be astronomical.