Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build. (2 Viewers)

[SharpeCat]

Was planning on grabbing this later this year, but that sale price ($150 off, 300 total) is too good to pass. I also plan on picking up the Pakite for 150 to test/compare, and also so that I can have the option of up to 2 wireless feeds to add to my setup.

Another piece of the puzzle for the stream setup. This in combination of a HDMI capture card will turn any camera with an HDMI output into a wireless webcam. I can even use my DSLR (wirelessly!) for a very high quality video feed.

As long as the car/laptop is nearby and a connection has been established, I can now stream a live feed wirelessly from outside the car/up to 300 ft away from laptop. I can place the camera on the ground before crossing an obstacle, and can view it live from the laptop/my broadcasting software, and from there stream it live to any platform or even multiple platforms at once. This also makes it possible to live stream the Camera(s) on Tiger (he cannot be wired)! That’s right, Tiger POV is coming!

The biggest thing about this is now, as the camera car, I don’t have to actually worry about aiming my car where I want the camera pointed. I can just park the car within 300 ft and capture from outside the car (without bringing the setup with me), which will allow me to get much better angles and stream shots like undercarriage/clearance shots.

This is important because I like to do it in one take, as in I’m too lazy to record, edit/compile then publish, which doesn’t require wireless connection between PC and camera. Instead I like to do it in one take and capture and publish it at same time, aka a live broadcast. That way I don’t need to do anything afterwards outside of highlighting clips/moments I like.

Also check out my budget “Shore Power” setup lol. Total cost = $20 bucks for extension cord.

 

[grinchy]

Was planning on grabbing this later this year, but that sale price ($150 off, 300 total) is too good to pass. I also plan on picking up the Pakite for 150 to test/compare, and also so that I can have the option of up to 2 wireless feeds to add to my setup.

Another piece of the puzzle for the stream setup. This in combination of a HDMI capture card will turn any camera with an HDMI output into a wireless webcam. I can even use my DSLR (wirelessly!) for a very high quality video feed.

As long as the car/laptop is nearby and a connection has been established, I can now stream a live feed wirelessly from outside the car/up to 300 ft away from laptop. I can place the camera on the ground before crossing an obstacle, and can view it live from the laptop/my broadcasting software, and from there stream it live to any platform or even multiple platforms at once. This also makes it possible to live stream the Camera(s) on Tiger (he cannot be wired)! That’s right, Tiger POV is coming!

The biggest thing about this is now, as the camera car, I don’t have to actually worry about aiming my car where I want the camera pointed. I can just park the car within 300 ft and capture from outside the car (without bringing the setup with me), which will allow me to get much better angles and stream shots like undercarriage/clearance shots.

This is important because I like to do it in one take, as in I’m too lazy to record, edit/compile then publish, which doesn’t require wireless connection between PC and camera. Instead I like to do it in one take and capture and publish it at same time, aka a live broadcast. That way I don’t need to do anything afterwards outside of highlighting clips/moments I like.

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Also check out my budget “Shore Power” setup lol. Total cost = $20 bucks for extension cord.

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Nice.

 

[TeCKis300]

Maybe I missed it but did you ever install some sort of 12V outlet in the cargo area?

That may be an opportunity for you to better manage power and not be so constrained by the factory 120W outlet. Instead of charging portable batteries from the car, to then charge and power your personal devices, might be better to draw from the car directly for part of your power needs? Should minimize portable battery/charging needs, and allow you access part of the car battery for reserve use. A relatively cheap group 31 battery upgrade would add significantly more reserve capacity. Though you'll want some form of low voltage protection and/or jumping capability.

Victron Battery Protect Install

I've added a few accessories that allows power draw when the vehicle is off. I don't plan to ever install a dual bank battery system so I'll always be drawing from the single starting battery bank. Wanted to ensure it cuts off loads leaving enough starting power. Even with a dual bank, it's...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[SharpeCat]

Maybe I missed it but did you ever install some sort of 12V outlet in the cargo area?

That may be an opportunity for you to better manage power and not be so constrained by the factory 120W outlet. Instead of charging portable batteries from the car, to then charge and power your personal devices, might be better to draw from the car directly for part of your power needs? Should minimize portable battery/charging needs, and allow you access part of the car battery for reserve use. A relatively cheap group 31 battery upgrade would add significantly more reserve capacity. Though you'll want some form of low voltage protection and/or jumping capability.

Victron Battery Protect Install

I've added a few accessories that allows power draw when the vehicle is off. I don't plan to ever install a dual bank battery system so I'll always be drawing from the single starting battery bank. Wanted to ensure it cuts off loads leaving enough starting power. Even with a dual bank, it's...

forum.ih8mud.com

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Not yet, but that looks very interesting. I haven’t figured out exactly what I’ll do there, I just know I want the area by the outlet as my power center. Is group 31 the highest capacity/largest that will fit without any modifications? If so then my battery is nearing the end of its life (Lexus recommended a replacement before I bought it i December), and I will upgrade to max size for stock to replace it.

when that happens I will need a way to use it but also have it cut off before it drains below starting current, and what you shared might be the way to go about it. Do they make other versions with more outputs? I would love a second 110V outlet in addition to another 12V or two (fridge and fan). Would also love to charge my starting battery In addition to my charge backpack/power stations simultaneously, when I plug into shore power with my extension cord.

 

[Ratchey]

Not yet, but that looks very interesting. I haven’t figured out exactly what I’ll do there, I just know I want the area by the outlet as my power center. Is group 31 the highest capacity/largest that will fit without any modifications? If so then my battery is nearing the end of its life (Lexus recommended a replacement before I bought it i December), and I will upgrade to max size for stock to replace it.

when that happens I will need a way to use it but also have it cut off before it drains below starting current, and what you shared might be the way to go about it. Do they make other versions with more outputs? I would love a second 110V outlet in addition to another 12V or two (fridge and fan).

You have to replace the inverter if you want 110v outlets. (the stock one is very small and limited in power as you already know) They come in sizes ranging from <100w to over 3K w. Depends on what you want to spend and how clean of a sine wave it produces.
I have a 800w unit I need to install at some point but I used to have a 2000w. It would run a 3/4 hp air compressor with no issues.
Something like this inverter would work well.

 

[SharpeCat]

You have to replace the inverter if you want 110v outlets. (the stock one is very small and limited in power as you already know) They come in sizes ranging from <100w to over 3K w. Depends on what you want to spend on how clean of a sine wave it produces.
I have a 800w unit I need to install at some point but I used to have a 2000w. It would run a 3/4 hp air compressor with no issues.
Something like this inverter would work well.

Good stuff, thanks!

Still trying to wrap my head around how inverters work, seems I get more power and outputs but is there something to stop it from killing my starter battery? Is that what an isolator is for?

 

[Ratchey]

Good stuff, thanks!

Still trying to wrap my head around how inverters work, seems I get more power and outputs but is there something to stop it from killing my starter battery? Is that what an isolator is for?

An inverter takes the 12+ volt DC power from the battery and boosts/changes it to 110 volt AC power. (A converter does the opposite)
Many of the inverters sound an alarm when the incoming power is too low. (battery is low) Some shut off, some don't.
There are systems out there that you can wire in between your items (like fridges, cameras etc) that will open the circuit when the battery reaches a certain voltage level.

An isolator is generally used to prevent your starting battery from being drained when drawing power from your secondary battery. It isolates the two circuits and may have a switch wired in to allow the circuits to be joined (ie you left the headlights on and drained the starting battery and you want to use the secondary battery to start the vehicle)
There are other uses for them but this is a common car application.

 

[SharpeCat]

So something like the Victron battery protect from @TeCKis300 is what I need, and have that run between the battery and inverter? I guess I don’t need an extra 110v, what I really need is to get more than 100W out of my outlet when the car is running, and when it isn’t running I just want enough to start the car and have the rest be used to charge electronics.

Or buy inverter with auto shut off?

I have to look up how to wire an inverter into the car. I can design an area by the outlet to mount an inverter into the drawers, but as of right now I am clueless as to how to how to wire it in and which one to get.

Thanks for all the help Mudders. This project is going to turn out great with all these big brains helping me! Much appreciated.

 

[grinchy]

Power systems are deep water. You'll be able to find a place to put it once the drawers are in. Lots of cubbies in the wheel well or attach to back or behind the drawers. To do a power system all up will be $2k or so. Some might debate that, but using typical prices for stuff that is what I arrived at. You can try to piecemeal but may have to then step back in between phases.
There are several potential end states and also different fundamental approaches.

I suggest writing down your requirements and then post that up and use the Hive mind to get the optimal solution.

 

[SharpeCat]

Power systems are deep water. You'll be able to find a place to put it once the drawers are in. Lots of cubbies in the wheel well or attach to back or behind the drawers. To do a power system all up will be $2k or so. Some might debate that, but using typical prices for stuff that is what I arrived at. You can try to piecemeal but may have to then step back in between phases.
There are several potential end states and also different fundamental approaches.

I suggest writing down your requirements and then post that up and use the Hive mind to get the optimal solution.

I will do that, as that is something I have been slowly trying to figure out myself. I know it will be higher requirements than most. At its peak i imagine that I will be running my laptop (95w), an external graphics card, A Wi-fi antenna (parabolic?), for gaming while streaming, a fan for Tiger and one for me, a second monitor for monitoring stream/chat, my fridge and other smaller devices like the cameras and phone. I want to aim for 8-10 hours of continuous usage of the things I mentioned above each day, ideally for up to 5 days per week, and leave a little extra room in case I want to run something else (like a juicer ). For charging I imagine a combination of solar panels, car, and shore power. The less time I have to spend plugged in per week, the better. Or rather, the longer I can stay out the better.

If it wasn’t for the stream and wanting the option of playing PC games when I have Wi-fi, I’d almost be happy with what I have right now with the power banks. Just need more for the fridge. When I add the stream and gaming requirements, then we go from hundreds of watt hours to thousands. This is why, at one point, I considered looking for a wrecked Tesla and taking the entire battery tray, convert it from 24 to 12V, and mounting it on the roof and then using it to power a trailer full of subs/a living room area, called “The BASSment”. I ultimately decided that was crazy and silly and went with power banks for simplicity.

Now it doesn’t sound too crazy.

Ok, it’s still crazy, but what’s less crazy is people using not the entire tray, but rather just 2 battery modules at 5k+ watt hours each at 24V?, so 10k at 12V?, and then converting it to 12V and using that as a power bank for their RVs. I think the modules are about 1300 each on eBay, but it’s been a while since I’ve checked.

What do you think about going with Tesla battery modules to achieve that kind of capacity? Cost efficient? SAFE? Viable?

Many examples out there, this is just one.

 

[Ratchey]

I think you need to budget for an additional or much bigger alternator.

 

[SharpeCat]

I think you need to budget for an additional or much bigger alternator.

Most of the time the car will be off when I am streaming or playing games, if I am using the car solely for charging then I think I’m in trouble and need to budget for more gas lol. I just didn’t want any excess charge from the battery to go to waste, and I didn’t want to drive and have the excess current to go to waste. With the car I just want to make sure I’m only leaving enough to start And run it, and rest goes into battery banks. I don’t want to rely on the car for the bulk of the charging, but any help I get from there without spending a lot will help. I was thinking just an inverter/something that will allow me to use the battery up until 12V remaining, and then shut it off.

I think I would rather go extra on the solar panels than go bigger on alternator or 2nd alternator (unless it’s cost efficient to do so). I envision a solar array on sunny days of Foldable panels that I don’t have to permanently mount, maybe 1-2 permanently mounted (to capture what I can for when driving), and shore power on rainy days (or just sleep and take rainy days off).

 

[TeCKis300]

A 300-500W onboard inverter is useful. A 2000W inverter onboard is futile for the reason of current draw and capacity without the engine on. Unless you're going some flavor of onboard lithium as an aux battery to support a 2000W inverter. Still somewhat limited use as a big 100Ah could only support that level of draw for maybe 30 minutes if that. Most inverters especially larger ones also have significant phantom draw just by being on.

It's best to power devices via the native house battery voltage, aka 12V. Any conversion wastes energy on the order of 10-25%.

The stock alternator is large and not a bottleneck, IIRC 180 amp.

Efforts to conserve power, or seek/trade in in devices for lower draw devices may be actually cheaper in the long run to help you go the distance.

All these installed batts, DC-DC chargers, inverters, solar are heavy, expensive, and space intensive. Even for RVs.

I personally would recommend an integrated portable solution which may be more robust and flexible. Similar to what you have now but stronger larger versions. Because of the battery chemistry used, many have strong charging capabilities. Also strong discharge / inverters capability to run say that juicer.

 

[SharpeCat]

A 300-500W onboard inverter is useful. A 2000W inverter onboard is futile for the reason of current draw and capacity without the engine on. Unless you're going some flavor of onboard lithium as an aux battery to support a 2000W inverter. Still somewhat limited use as a big 100Ah could only support that level of draw for maybe 30 minutes if that. Most inverters especially larger ones also have significant phantom draw just by being on.

It's best to power devices via the native house battery voltage, aka 12V. Any conversion wastes energy on the order of 10-25%.

The stock alternator is large and not a bottleneck, IIRC 180 amp.

Efforts to conserve power, or seek/trade in in devices for lower draw devices may be actually cheaper in the long run to help you go the distance.

All these installed batts, DC-DC chargers, inverters, solar are heavy, expensive, and space intensive. Even for RVs.

I personally would recommend an integrated portable solution which may be more robust and flexible. Similar to what you have now but stronger larger versions. Because of the battery chemistry used, many have strong charging capabilities. Also strong discharge / inverters capability to run say that juicer.

It seems that is the way with the least headache for achieving capacity, desired outputs and discharge rate, is to go big power bank with all the features built in that auto shuts off/has inverter/solar charging management and etc. Other than that it might not be worth the headache until i start messing with those Tesla modules and get 5000 watt hours for - little over $1000, then it might be worth the effort of adding inverters and things.

If I go the route of 1 big portable power bank, can a few solar panels be chained together to charge the same battery bank? Can I chain 5 100 watt foldable panels to 1 single input, to take full advantage of the 500w charging capacity on the Bluetti, if I go that route?

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm not familiar with the Bluetti. Yes, some brands do allow for chaining or direct inputs of multiple panels. Not sure if they'll support 500W worth of input, but likely 200-300W. 500W worth of panels would be cumbersome anyhow.

 

[SharpeCat]

I'm not familiar with the Bluetti. Yes, some brands do allow for chaining or direct inputs of multiple panels. Not sure if they'll support 500W worth of input, but likely 200-300W. 500W worth of panels would be cumbersome anyhow.

I know, that’s why I wanted to go foldable, so they can stack neatly when not in use.

So I decided to poke around at the “bigger Bluetti” they hinted at, and turns out it’s not bigger but it will be a great deal If I’m reading it right. He said he can’t say the price but at the same time he did say the price lol. I know what I need to save up for for the next 2 weeks. Need to set an alarm so I don’t forget. This thing looks pretty amazing for the price point. 2000w output can receive 700w from solar panels 1700 wh capacity for 45% off to first 200 when its released in 2 weeks, totaling 999. We are almost in air conditioning territory! If there was a way to charge a few extra hundred watts in addition to the 700W of solar, it could maintain AC on hot sunny days! Window Ac units are around 1000w?

So I did some light reading, and It says it can accept AC and solar charging simultaneously, SOOOOOOOO.... I can theoretically get 700 from panels, and then a few hundred more from external power bank with AC output like a Jackery or another one of these, and while charging the 2nd power bank with another few hundred watts of solar panels... that I could theoretically... with 2 banks and 1000w of solar panels... run a window AC unit for as long as the sun is out?!! And then switch to fans after sun is gone!!? Alternatively, i could use a small generator ($100 harber freight, 900w), in combination with panels, to keep a 5000 BTU AC unit running until either the sun/gas is gone. I wouldn't consider a big generator ever but maybe a small one around 500 watts would be perfect. They are rare but out there.

Bluetti AC200 2000W/1700Wh-Portable Power Station-MAXOAK Technology Company

power station

www.maxoak.net

I might have to borrow some money for that baby! @grinchy might be worth it to return your 400 wh one with the slow charging while you still can, and wait for this deal!

 

[SharpeCat]

On another note, what is a good way to build my drawer so that the bed can extend out to the edge of the tailgate if needed? Sometimes I wished I was a little further out so the rear hatch isn’t as much in the way of a nice view of the night sky (I often sleep with rear hatch open), and so that the vehicle walls aren’t in the way of my surroundings. Sometimes I want a panoramic view from inside the car. The option of extra leg room wouldn’t hurt either. Something strong enough for me and/or Tiger to sit on would be nice!

I’ll sleep on it, but lemme know if any of you geniuses have ideas!

 

[grinchy]

I might have to borrow some money for that baby! @grinchy might be worth it to return your 400 wh one with the slow charging while you still can, and wait for this deal

I've been watching the pre-reviews and it looks like an awesome unit. It's too big and expensive for my needs though. I just need something to run my fridge for 2 or 3 days, with the option to extend it a day more with 100W of solar. I will then recharge at home under no load, where 45W or 90W is not a limiting factor.

My long term plan is a homebrew built in. LiFePo4 prices continue to decrease as more capacity and used cells come online, and LiTi presents some really interesting use cases for high C charge and discharge (like replacing starter battery and getting away from the starter/house dicotomy and having to maintain two disparate chemistries.)

You'll have to get up early to get in on a first 200 discount, they'll shift several thousand of these in the first few hours.

 

[SharpeCat]

I've been watching the pre-reviews and it looks like an awesome unit. It's too big and expensive for my needs though. I just need something to run my fridge for 2 or 3 days, with the option to extend it a day more with 100W of solar. I will then recharge at home under no load, where 45W or 90W is not a limiting factor.

My long term plan is a homebrew built in. LiFePo4 prices continue to decrease as more capacity and used cells come online, and LiTi presents some really interesting use cases for high C charge and discharge (like replacing starter battery and getting away from the starter/house dicotomy and having to maintain two disparate chemistries.)

You'll have to get up early to get in on a first 200 discount, they'll shift several thousand of these in the first few hours.

I set my alarm and will start saving up for this.

I think for my parents camper (Ford transit extended length, high roof with gvm upgrade & duallies, and a 3.6L turbo engine), that I will build after this project is done, I want to look into a BMS system for sure.

Me choosing to go the simple route for now is mostly due to a lack of understanding of how to cost-efficiently set up a High-capacity BMS system. Until I figure out how to safely, and cost efficiently use the Tesla module (5000wH (460 AH for $1000), or something of comparable wHs per $dollar, then I can’t see it being cost effective for me. When I looked the other LiFePo4 batteries were like $500-$1000 per 100AH.

However, if I can figure out the Tesla module, then it’s a buy/solve once, cry once solution. At 5k wHs, there is plenty of room for additions in the future; no looking back and wishing I held out for a bigger capacity, and no need to end up with multiple small banks like I have now (which I plan on keeping for the portability aspect/my charge bag). I could even run an AC unit! If it's hot it's likely sunny, and if it's sunny then the solar panels can put back in some of what i use, then shore power at night to recharge everything until i figure out ways to increase my remote charging capabilities.

With that said, have you, or any other mudders considered this? Using The Tesla module? I understand most of us only need about 100-200 AHs, but if you can build a 450AH system for a comparable price to a 100-200AH system using other batteries, then why not, right? Unless I am missing something? (I’m no expert so that could always be the case).

I can make that one of my projects for next 2 weeks, figure out if I should put in the extra work for the BMS w/Tesla module, if it’s worth it and safe in long run, or if I should just get the AC200 and work around it.

Since the Tesla module is 24 V, does that mean I can charge it twice as fast as a 12V battery bank? So I could charge it at 24V before I convert it to 12V?

 

[SharpeCat]

Oh and on a related note, after I’m done setting up my stream, I was thinking about creating a series for YouTube and naming it “Mud Science”. @woody let me know if this is a problem (hope I tagged right admin/person).

Basically, I take things I learn from here and try to explain it to others/future mudders. It will all be things related to building a rig for wheeling and increasing off-road capability that will go into this series. For overland specific things, I will do an “My Overland Essentials” series. For example, I want to figure out how to get the extra .8” out of AHC like someone just did recently (can’t find thread), and then make a video showing others how to do it. Looks like they found a way to make the Extra High Mode permanent!

If i can figure out a Battery Management System that works for me, that could go into both categories of Mud Science (for compressors, light bars winches and etc) and Overlanding Essentials (fridges, heating, cooling and etc)!