2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (3 Viewers)

[RT Cruiser]

Dang should I replace the alternator, too?

I have the radiator, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner, fluid coupling bracket, thermostat, upper/lower hoses.

I’m at 175k miles. If it’s significantly easier to do when the radiator is out, maybe I should grab an alternator, too…

I don't have the expertise and mechanically/electrically skilled as many on this forum. One reason why I'm going to the Cruiser on the Rocks in Silverton this July is to remind everyone what a stock Cruiser still looks like .

From what I witnessed watching the mechanic who came to my home yesterday to do the work, I can attest that it's MUCH easier to swap out the parts for those items when it's all done together. I recommend you get new Toyota parts for these items and replace simultaneously.

• Water pump
• Alternator
• Idler pulley
• Tensioner pulley
• Fan clutch
• Fan clutch pulley housing (bracket fluid coupling)
• Radiator (the Toyota box should have new mounts, cap, peacock valve, etc. included)
• Radiator upper/lower hoses
• Thermostat
• Heater hose tee lines. Mine had 2 sets with 3 hoses each, with the tee included. Each as a set from from Toyota. It was much easier for my mechanic to replace each as a set, instead of doing the hoses and tees separately. I do have a new metal tee that I will most likely take with me on trips. Then, I'll replace the OEM tee in about 50k miles if not before.
• My thermostat had 4 hoses connected to it. I'd replace those as well.
• Mine had 2 coolant hose attached to 2 metal lines near the radiator. I'm only replacing the one that is easier to access.
• I'm replacing a few more coolant-line/by-pass hoses that I could identify on a Toyota diagram.
• Serpentine belt.
• If you want the Toyota self-tensioning clamps for all your hoses, now is the time to get them. I'm replacing all of mine as connected by this job.

There is coolant leaking by the heater hose tees. I replaced the plastic tee with the metal ones 3.5 yrs and 63k miles ago, but not the hoses. The hoses now need to be replaced.

While you're in there, inspect for oil/coolant leaks around the engine block.

Don't forget to use the engine-coolant peacock valves to drain the coolant.

Initially, the Toyota dealer I use for discounted parts gave me a remanufactured radiator. You need to clearly specify you do not want a remanufactured alternator, but a new one. The remanufactured alternator was shown like this on the first invoice:
"27060-38050-84 REMAN ALTE M121"

I did not ask for a remanufactured one. So I had to call after the first invoice was emailed to me and state I want a new one. They changed it.

If you want to do a full tranny fluid flush, now is a good time. You can flush it all out by using the tranny fluid line by the radiator before you change anything, and then use the Toyota refill process after you install the above parts. I made a mess doing a fully tranny fluid change by using the tranny fluid line at the radiator. If you go this route and make a mess, it'll be easier to clean it up.

I record my maintenance on a spreadsheet. It will look very nice on your records, in your head, and on your rig knowing you did everything the same time.

 

[Cruisin911]

I don't have the expertise and mechanically/electrically skilled as many on this forum. One reason why I'm going to the Cruiser on the Rocks in Silverton this July is to remind everyone what a stock Cruiser still looks like .

From what I witnessed watching the mechanic who came to my home yesterday to do the work, I can attest that it's MUCH easier to swap out the parts for those items when it's all done together. I recommend you get new Toyota parts for these items and replace simultaneously.

• Water pump
• Alternator
• Idler pulley
• Tensioner pulley
• Fan clutch
• Fan clutch pulley housing (bracket fluid coupling)
• Radiator (the Toyota box should have new mounts, cap, peacock valve, etc. included)
• Radiator upper/lower hoses
• Thermostat
• Heater hose tee lines. Mine had 2 sets with 3 hoses each, with the tee included. Each as a set from from Toyota. It was much easier for my mechanic to replace each as a set, instead of doing the hoses and tees separately. I do have a new metal tee that I will most likely take with me on trips. Then, I'll replace the OEM tee in about 50k miles if not before.
• My thermostat had 4 hoses connected to it. I'd replace those as well.
• Mine had 2 coolant hose attached to 2 metal lines near the radiator. I'm only replacing the one that is easier to access.
• I'm replacing a few more coolant-line/by-pass hoses that I could identify on a Toyota diagram.
• Serpentine belt.
• If you want the Toyota self-tensioning clamps for all your hoses, now is the time to get them. I'm replacing all of mine as connected by this job.

There is coolant leaking by the heater hose tees. I replaced the plastic tee with the metal ones 3.5 yrs and 63k miles ago, but not the hoses. The hoses now need to be replaced.

While you're in there, inspect for oil/coolant leaks around the engine block.

Don't forget to use the engine-coolant peacock valves to drain the coolant.

Initially, the Toyota dealer I use for discounted parts gave me a remanufactured radiator. You need to clearly specify you do not want a remanufactured alternator, but a new one. The remanufactured alternator was shown like this on the first invoice:
"27060-38050-84 REMAN ALTE M121"

I did not ask for a remanufactured one. So I had to call after the first invoice was emailed to me and state I want a new one. They changed it.

If you want to do a full tranny fluid flush, now is a good time. You can flush it all out by using the tranny fluid line by the radiator before you change anything, and then use the Toyota refill process after you install the above parts. I made a mess doing a fully tranny fluid change by using the tranny fluid line at the radiator. If you go this route and make a mess, it'll be easier to clean it up.

I record my maintenance on a spreadsheet. It will look very nice on your records, in your head, and on your rig knowing you did everything the same time.

Man, I wish I would have known you had someone do this. I could have helped you get all that done and save the cost. I wrench on all my cars and live in HR as well. Should you ever want help to do some of this yourself, let me know.

-Scott

 

[RT Cruiser]

Man, I wish I would have known you had someone do this. I could have helped you get all that done and save the cost. I wrench on all my cars and live in HR as well. Should you ever want help to do some of this yourself, let me know.

-Scott

Scott,

I appreciate your desire to help. I was in a tight spot because this Thurs I'm taking the Cruiser on a trip to Memphis. I began the usual maintenance 2 weeks ago. But, my instinct told me to inspect the coolant, radiator, pulleys, etc. So I ordered all the parts and got a discount from Corwin Toyota in the Springs... due to my error, all the items did not arrive until recently so that put me behind with the schedule. I have a guy who comes to my house and charges $100 hourly. He wrapped it up a few hours ago. I need our Cruiser tomorrow so I can pack it.

Next time I can reach out to you.

Let's meet up sometime.

 

[finboy]

It sure if this is better for the SQOTD thread or this one, but has anyone explored adapting the seqoia/tundra all aluminum Koyo option? I’m assuming someone has compared, and it surprises me that koyo doesn’t have a direct fit option. Pictures look like the top rad hose is slightly different but I don’t have the measurements of the Oem unit to compare on koyo’s site.

This is the first car/truck where the pressed end tank rad option seems like the only replacement rather than a koyo (Honda and Subaru being prior builds I’ve done).

 

[gaijin]

It sure if this is better for the SQOTD thread or this one, but has anyone explored adapting the seqoia/tundra all aluminum Koyo option? I’m assuming someone has compared, and it surprises me that koyo doesn’t have a direct fit option. Pictures look like the top rad hose is slightly different but I don’t have the measurements of the Oem unit to compare on koyo’s site.

This is the first car/truck where the pressed end tank rad option seems like the only replacement rather than a koyo (Honda and Subaru being prior builds I’ve done).

Looks to me like Koyo does have a direct fit option for the Land Cruiser:

Or am I missing something?

HTH

 

[bloc]

It sure if this is better for the SQOTD thread or this one, but has anyone explored adapting the seqoia/tundra all aluminum Koyo option? I’m assuming someone has compared, and it surprises me that koyo doesn’t have a direct fit option. Pictures look like the top rad hose is slightly different but I don’t have the measurements of the Oem unit to compare on koyo’s site.

This is the first car/truck where the pressed end tank rad option seems like the only replacement rather than a koyo (Honda and Subaru being prior builds I’ve done).

The 5.7L tundra I looked at had a single-row radiator with much larger surface area than our smaller but 2-row core. Pretty sure there’s no way it would fit.

That said, the new design addresses the problem. All-aluminum introduces new ones, and almost certainly won’t be on the level of quality of our updated factory part. I’d just install the update.

 

[teejnut]

The 5.7L tundra I looked at had a single-row radiator with much larger surface area than our smaller but 2-row core. Pretty sure there’s no way it would fit.

That said, the new design addresses the problem. All-aluminum introduces new ones, and almost certainly won’t be on the level of quality of our updated factory part. I’d just install the update.

SQOD. What issues are there with an all aluminum radiator?

 

[bloc]

SQOD. What issues are there with an all aluminum radiator?

Greater risk of weld issues or stress cracking than stock, imperfect fit & finish (stuff like small changes in hose port size preventing use of factory spring clamps), occasional electrolysis issues..

All for something that doesn’t actually perform better than the Genuine part.

 

[birlc200]

Got Multiweek trip planned where i am going to be on the road, camping and hitting some trails this upcoming week and noticed the infamous crack. Waiting for radiator and all the other related parts will result in canceling the trip since i only have these few weeks off.

QUESTIONS is
1. Patch it and Send it ?
2. Or Cancel the trip, do the repair and Plan the trip some other time?

 

[bloc]

Got Multiweek trip planned where i am going to be on the road, camping and hitting some trails this upcoming week and noticed the infamous crack. Waiting for radiator and all the other related parts will result in canceling the trip since i only have these few weeks off.

QUESTIONS is
1. Patch it and Send it ?
2. Or Cancel the trip, do the repair and Plan the trip some other time?

View attachment 3607304

Well-applied patches appear to have a great track record here as long as they are done before things start leaking. So I'd say you are good with option 1, but keep an eye on it.

 

[grinchy]

Got Multiweek trip planned where i am going to be on the road, camping and hitting some trails this upcoming week and noticed the infamous crack. Waiting for radiator and all the other related parts will result in canceling the trip since i only have these few weeks off.

QUESTIONS is
1. Patch it and Send it ?
2. Or Cancel the trip, do the repair and Plan the trip some other time?

View attachment 3607304

Mine looked like that and went another few years after patching. The radiator eventually failed but I drove a lot before it did.

 

[NewLCGuy]

Can someone please provide the part #s of below items for a 17 LC? I am assuming this will cover me for another 100k miles from a preventative maintenance. Please let me know I should replace anything else. I’ll ask my dealer to change them accordingly. Thanks

• Water pump
• Alternator
• Idler pulley
• Tensioner pulley
• Fan clutch
• Fan clutch pulley housing (bracket fluid coupling)
• Radiator
• Radiator upper/lower hoses
• Thermostat
• Heater hose tee lines.

 

[LX Cruiser]

1. Patch it and Send it ?

Patched mine at about 150k miles. It looked like yours. I have all the parts to replace the radiator; just haven’t found the time. We’re at 176k now.

Can someone please provide the part #s of below items for a 17 LC? I am assuming this will cover me for another 100k miles from a preventative maintenance. Please let me know I should replace anything else. I’ll ask my dealer to change them accordingly. Thanks

• Water pump
• Alternator
• Idler pulley
• Tensioner pulley
• Fan clutch
• Fan clutch pulley housing (bracket fluid coupling)
• Radiator
• Radiator upper/lower hoses
• Thermostat
• Heater hose tee lines.

Here is what I’m putting in as soon as I get a Saturday to do it. I found all of these searching the forum by the way

 

[Willie G]

@LX Cruiser - With 176k on the clock, I'd suggest new hose clamps as well.

 

[NewLCGuy]

Patched mine at about 150k miles. It looked like yours. I have all the parts to replace the radiator; just haven’t found the time. We’re at 176k now.

Here is what I’m putting in as soon as I get a Saturday to do it. I found all of these searching the forum by the way

View attachment 3612395

Thanks sir!

 

[Climbingnut]

Hey all, I’m driving a 2017 VDJ-200 with about 90,000 kms on it. Today I pulled off my radiator plastic cover in order to do some battery maintenance. While removed, I decided to check the radiator, just in case. In the attached picture, one can see a small discoloration/crack starting. There’s been no loss of fluid or anything else. Does this look like the beginning of the radiator crack? Should I clean the radiator up, put some 2 part epoxy on/around the area, and keep driving while I gather the parts to swop the radiator and other things? Thoughts?

 

[Cruisin911]

I’m a bit biased on this. I’d order the replacement now and epoxy it while waiting. With only 90k kms on it, you can likely do just the radiator now and water pump, pulley, etc… later. I hate having anything on any rig that makes me worry about reliability. Fixing the radiator was one thing less to be concerned about.

 

[bloc]

Hey all, I’m driving a 2017 VDJ-200 with about 90,000 kms on it. Today I pulled off my radiator plastic cover in order to do some battery maintenance. While removed, I decided to check the radiator, just in case. In the attached picture, one can see a small discoloration/crack starting. There’s been no loss of fluid or anything else. Does this look like the beginning of the radiator crack? Should I clean the radiator up, put some 2 part epoxy on/around the area, and keep driving while I gather the parts to swop the radiator and other things? Thoughts?

View attachment 3616100

That does appear to be the start of “the crack”, but based on the ones posted here you have plenty of time to replace it. I’d say most don’t let go for another 20k miles.

Thing is, we don’t know if your diesel radiator fails in exactly the same way as our 5.7L petrol one.

Personally I wouldn’t patch that yet, if you’ll just be replacing it, because you appear to be so early in the crack progression. This way you can monitor that process. It usually needs to get a solid 8mm past the right edge of the raised area before it fails.

But yes a patch would effectively stop the problem in its tracks.. so it is a good option. My personal belief is you are so early in the process it isn’t needed in time for you to replace it.

I’m curious whether Toyota updated the part for diesel vehicles too.

 

[Climbingnut]

Thanks for the reply. I need to check ToyoDIY and see what they say. The Southern Africa cruiser club definitely says the crack is more common on the petrol motors, but isn’t unheard of on the diesel ones. I would have thought that the facelift models would’ve all had radiators where this issue has been resolved, regardless of fuel type. I’ll keep an eye on it, but will likely replace the radiator next time I’m in Namibia. I can’t get things quick and easy here, so better to pay for the insurance and peace of mind, than to gamble and possibly be in the bush with a leaking radiator.

Thanks again!

 

[Climbingnut]

I’m a bit biased on this. I’d order the replacement now and epoxy it while waiting. With only 90k kms on it, you can likely do just the radiator now and water pump, pulley, etc… later. I hate having anything on any rig that makes me worry about reliability. Fixing the radiator was one thing less to be concerned about.

That’s what I was thinking. 90k km’s isn’t that much. Thanks for the reply!