2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (5 Viewers)

[scott johnson]

Got my new radiator. Hope this is the newest design. $288 plus $50 shipping. From a Toyota dealer that does a lot of online sales.local dealer in CHS wanted almost $500 and didn’t have it in stock . Said it would take at least a week to 10 days to get. This showed up from Kansas in 3 days

 

[Ratchey]

Got my new radiator. Hope this is the newest design. $288 plus $50 shipping. From a Toyota dealer that does a lot of online sales.local dealer in CHS wanted almost $500 and didn’t have it in stock . Said it would take at least a week to 10 days to get. This showed up from Kansas in 3 days View attachment 2470882View attachment 2470876

Yes, that is the new design

 

[scott johnson]

So while I’m at it I figured I should at least replace the upper and lower hoses. Looks like about $50 for those two if I go with one Toyota from the same place I got the radiator. Saw this silicone e kit on Amazon. It comes with everything and looks like it deletes the heater “t”’s that commonly fail. Anyone have any experience with these? I know a lot of tuner guys and racers swear by the silicone hoses. It’s a little pricey but it comes with all the hoses and clamps.

HPS Red Silicone Radiator + Heater Hose Kit Coolant OEM Replacement 57-1670-RED Amazon product ASIN B07KCJV95C

 

[bloc]

So while I’m at it I figured I should at least replace the upper and lower hoses. Looks like about $50 for those two if I go with OME Toyota from the same place I got the radiator. Saw this silicone e kit on Amazon. It comes with everything and looks like it deletes the heater “t”’s that commonly fail. Anyone have any experience with these? I know a lot of tuner guys and racers swear by the silicone hoses.

HPS Red Silicone Radiator + Heater Hose Kit Coolant OEM Replacement 57-1670-RED Amazon product ASIN B07KCJV95C

Silicon hoses should be a hard pass. Our stock black rubber hoses are extremely high quality, and due to the higher durometer (hardness) rubber VASTLY less likely to tear or suffer physical damage from clamps/mishandling. Plus your stock spring clamps will work perfectly with the OEM wall thickness, and these work better than screw clamps in clamping uniformly and not tearing the hose.

Tuners swear by silicon because they are brightly colored.

Kidding (kindof).

Silicon is available in a huge array of size/bend/length combinations to be put together into anything you'd need to swap in a custom radiator, or engine, or turbo setup, or whatever. For an OEM application I wouldn't hesitate to replace with OEM, and I'd argue that they will actually perform better than silicon over the long haul.

This is a little different application but my major city fire department is ending a year trial run where they replaced all the cooling hoses on our fire apparatus with silicon. The mechanics are saying there is no chance of continuing, and were saying they said so at the beginning. My truck has catastrophically blown two silicon radiator hoses while driving normally. This almost never happened with the black rubber hoses, they would just go years and years and eventually develop small leaks from vibration/friction/etc. But that process would take 8 or 10 years, not 4 months. Granted, this is a 450hp diesel engine in a 75,000lb truck..

Stock T's go much further than in 100s, I have vague plans to R&R mine in the next 20k miles, simply because I'll be approaching 175k. Same thing applies to those hoses with regard to silicon vs black rubber.

 

[scott johnson]

Yes, that is the new design

Thank you.

 

[Source Hydrographics]

Will the new design fit 2009? Some sites list it for 2010 and up.

 

[Ratchey]

Will the new design fit 2009? Some sites list it for 2010 and up.

Yes, I installed one in my 2009

 

[LittleRock80]

'13 LX
124K
Yay.

 

[bloc]

This might be an interesting data point for some people..

I changed what appeared to be the original radiator on my friend's new-to-them 2013 LX with ~110k on it, then put the old one behind the garage to wait on me collecting enough aluminum to bring it down to the scrap place.

After a few weeks of sitting outside, the upper spout turned an interesting color. The lower (which is the cooler side in operation) looked factory-new. The rest of the upper tank looked pretty good.. very dark brown color, as opposed to the solid black of a new one. But this upper inlet has clearly seen some heat. This was a Dallas TX vehicle as far as we could tell.

 

[amunsey]

Well had the dreaded radiator crack on my 2011 LX. It also didn't seem like the radiator cap was holding. I'm at just over 140k miles. Went ahead and had the radiator, hoses, clamps, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, idler pulley, and belt tensioner replaced at the same time. Bought the parts online through the local Toyota dealer and had them installed at a local shop.

 

[fj4068]

2011 w/90,000 miles. I put paint pen marks at the ends of the crack when it was noticed and then monitored it for 6 months until it started to weep. There was only a small amount of lateral growth during that period.

 

[Mtntopper]

Get some of that radiator fix putty at the parts store. Its hard as steel when cured. Its just a seam crack around that raised boss. $10 and you are on your way.

Not likely. More like a new radiator, water pump, and $1000 and you are on your way.

 

[fj803fe]

Working with our local dealer they covered the new rad. We just paid a portion of labor. I’ll have to say the dealer helped negotiating with Toyota. My call with Toyota was nothing less than frustrating...

 

[BigMF]

Well had the dreaded radiator crack on my 2011 LX. It also didn't seem like the radiator cap was holding. I'm at just over 140k miles. Went ahead and had the radiator, hoses, clamps, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, idler pulley, and belt tensioner replaced at the same time. Bought the parts online through the local Toyota dealer and had them installed at a local shop.

@amunsey, you wouldn't happen to have that parts list handy for a fellow southerner would you? I also have a 2011 LX570 and looking to do pretty much the same as you and started trying to find all the parts. Crossing my fingers someone has already done all the homework.

 

[Snafu13F]

@BigMF I had this done in my 11 LX a couple months ago. Here’s the parts list.

RADIATOR
Part Number: 1640050384

WATER INLET SUB-ASSEMBLY, WITH THERMOSTAT
Part Number: 160310S010

ENGINE WATER PUMP - includes gasket
Part Number: 1610009491

RADIATOR COOLANT HOSE upper
Part Number: 1657138080

RADIATOR COOLANT HOSE lower
Part Number: 1657238131

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
Part Number: 166200S012

SERPENTINE BELT
Part Number: 90916A2033

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY
Part Number: 1660338012

I did not, but wish I had also done these while in there

BRACKET, FLUID COUPLING - fan bracket
Part Number: 163800S010

ENGINE COOLING FAN CLUTCH
Part Number: 1621038071

 

[BigMF]

@BigMF I had this done in my 11 LX a couple months ago. Here’s the parts list.

RADIATOR
Part Number: 1640050384

WATER INLET SUB-ASSEMBLY, WITH THERMOSTAT
Part Number: 160310S010

ENGINE WATER PUMP - includes gasket
Part Number: 1610009491

RADIATOR COOLANT HOSE upper
Part Number: 1657138080

RADIATOR COOLANT HOSE lower
Part Number: 1657238131

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
Part Number: 166200S012

SERPENTINE BELT
Part Number: 90916A2033

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY
Part Number: 1660338012

I did not, but wish I had also done these while in there

BRACKET, FLUID COUPLING - fan bracket
Part Number: 163800S010

ENGINE COOLING FAN CLUTCH
Part Number: 1621038071

Thank you so much @Snafu13F !!!!

 

[PDoyle]

Did you need any trans fluid to refill the rad?

 

[Snafu13F]

No, there was very little fluid in the old unit. Mechanic said it didn’t need any. 12k miles later, I have had no issues.

 

[Snafu13F]

Thank you so much @Snafu13F !!!!

One final thought. You can buy every one of those parts cheaper at a Toyota dealer. I got mine from a Toyota dealer while on the road.

 

[BigMF]

One final thought. You can buy every one of those parts cheaper at a Toyota dealer. I got mine from a Toyota dealer while on the road.

Strangely enough, my local dealer does not sell the radiator. I haven't called them to ask why but plan to as I get closer to the project. Normally, I like my local shop because I can just order the parts online and save around 25-30% over calling them for the same part. However, the other shops that are in driving distance don't have the "order online" option and you have to contact them and pay the full price, I presume. So, I may have to pay close to full price or the discounted price and pay shipping along with the risks of shipping the radiator that I've read about.