2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (10 Viewers)

[bloc]

You didn't just imply it as a primary contributor, you TYPED it rather clearly!! Regardless, you make good points.

Ah, that was in reference to the material degradation specifically, not the overall failure.

Assuming those longer trips would also indicate higher average driving speeds, doesn't this also complicate your "time at temperature" argument as well as my "higher cycle" argument?

I'm actually really curious to see what the inside of the upper tank looks like whenever I swap it out, likely before next summer. If it isn't material degrading, or stress cycles, why would it fail this quickly? The fact that a lot of those miles tend to be through north texas during the summer? Even straight temperature doesn't make sense, as these are mostly unloaded miles. Others get many more miles with a larger percentage of those towing heavy.. I do almost none of that. I don't even usually drive fast on these trips.. ~75. Marginally taller tires but no other aero consequences increasing HP demands..

The picture of the now-yellow radiator inlet was from a vehicle driven mostly in Dallas, IIRC.

You should try my Fix 2.0!!....

All that would show is when it has actually started leaking, not further crack propagation from when you applied the patch, to tell whether it's helping or not.

Even with a couple people reporting their patches are holding, as stated with my likelihood of being far from home when it finally does let go, I'll just be putting a $288 new OE radiator in it before things get hot. Should only take a few hours.

 

[ekolpack]

Is there anything one can do the prevent this from happening BEFORE noticing symptoms? I have an 08 with 120k, no sign of this yet, but I'd like to do some preventative maintenance if possible. 2-part epoxy? Radiator patch? JB Weld?

 

[gaijin]

Is there anything one can do the prevent this from happening BEFORE noticing symptoms? I have an 08 with 120k, no sign of this yet, but I'd like to do some preventative maintenance if possible. 2-part epoxy? Radiator patch? JB Weld?

Cross fingers?

 

[degmla]

@bloc

Ah, that was in reference to the material degradation specifically, not the overall failure.

Oh, ok, I tied the pronoun "this" to cracking. Now I see you intended it for material degradation. Thanks for clarifying.

All that would show is when it has actually started leaking, not further crack propagation from when you applied the patch, to tell whether it's helping or not.

That is exactly all I was trying to do. You identified that as one of your main concerns, such that a more catastrophic failure might occur if the patch was somehow sealing and then were to give way, exposing a larger crack. I do not see any benefit in looking for crack propagation that others have already observed -- either the repair sufficiently stops the crack propagation or doesn't. If no leak, then the patch did its job. But with Fix 2.0, you get the hopeful benefit of the repair patch (recall it is supposed to be structural with no intending sealing protection), but also get to monitor for leakage so that a more catastrophic patch failure doesn't occur (since the patch realistically does seal some, then it might be hiding a larger crack growth before failing -- I think that is the concern you had). It's just a tell-tale for leakage.

However, having discussed all of this, installing radiator tres is certainly is the "most reliable" fix!

If it isn't material degrading, or stress cycles, why would it fail this quickly?

Not sure. Perhaps the initiating crack at the stress riser starts pretty quickly, but then as the crack gets to the corners and starts growing into the curved top, it slows significantly? Dunno.

 

[Matthew810]

New to me, 2013, 132k miles. Removed the decorative radiator top this weekend and….no surprise.

View attachment 2530796


SINCE NOT YET LEAKING, this is my < $15 attempt at “structural reinforcement”. Add a few shallow grooves near the crack edges (oriented with the low stress direction) to basically try and piss the crack off. Roughen up the surface with 180 grit paper (oriented with the high stress direction). Patch using JBWeld plastic. The red dash is the OEM radiator contour, whereas the blue dash is the contour I was going for.

View attachment 2530799

View attachment 2530800

View attachment 2530802

View attachment 2530803

As has been pointed out, the crack-before-leak indicates these cracks are initiated on the outside. To reduce the propagating stress, my only hope is to have enough strength from the patch in the radiator’s depth (short direction), which is why I was trying to maximize the patch size in that direction.

Lexus radiators typically fail in the plastic/aluminum joints at 150k-ish (see my signature before you ask me how I know!). Hopefully this repair will enable that type of failure instead.

Also picked up a 2013 LX a week ago and found almost the same very faint start of a crack right on that right angle edge. 106k miles so not unexpected. Wasn't not going to buy the truck because of it.

Roughed up the area and preemptively applied jb weld radiator repair with the fiberglass patch over the trouble spot. I don't need it to last forever but it would be nice if it bought me some time until warmer weather. I'll probably start accumulating parts in the coming weeks just in case.

 

[wiseinvestor]

Someone might find this helpful.

I'm getting close to 100k so I recently put 11 identical parts in the following three online carts.
toytoaparts.lagrangetoyata.com
parts.olathetoyota.com
toyotapartsdeal.com

Lagrange (GA) was cheapest on all parts but not total shipped to Indiana cost. Parts $980 + shipping $189.49 = total $1169.84.
Olathe (KS) was Parts $1102.31 and $178.12 = $1280.43
Toyotapartsdeal (CA) was... Parts $1023.09 + shipping $53.99 + tax $71.62 = $1148.70

 

[ekolpack]

Also picked up a 2013 LX a week ago and found almost the same very faint start of a crack right on that right angle edge. 106k miles so not unexpected. Wasn't not going to buy the truck because of it.

Roughed up the area and preemptively applied jb weld radiator repair with the fiberglass patch over the trouble spot. I don't need it to last forever but it would be nice if it bought me some time until warmer weather. I'll probably start accumulating parts in the coming weeks just in case.

The addition of a fiberglass patch is a great idea. Do you think it's wise to use JB Weld epoxy with the fiberglass? Did it seem to adequately penetrate into the fibers? I know less viscous fiberglass resin/epoxy is usually used, although I'm not sure the bond with the plastic would be as strong as with JB weld.

 

[dstantdog]

Dangit...just picked up a 2013 the other day and came across this thread...looks like I have the newer radiator, but same hairline crack? Ugh

 

[bloc]

Dangit...just picked up a 2013 the other day and came across this thread...looks like I have the newer radiator, but same hairline crack? Ugh

View attachment 2565231

That is the old design. New design has a rounded edge at the lower front transition to the main tank body.
Toss a new OEM in there and depending on mileage consider doing some of the other PM stuff, then don’t worry for another 100k plus.

 

[dstantdog]

That is the old design. New design has a rounded edge at the lower front transition to the main tank body.
Toss a new OEM in there and depending on mileage consider doing some of the other PM stuff, then don’t worry for another 100k plus.

Thanks for the info...I thought the old design was 08-11. I'm right at 100k so I'll look into getting the water pump, thermostat, pulleys and belts. Just disappointed to have to drop a chuck of change right off the bat like this and that the Toyota service tech didn't notice this when doing their inspection.

 

[lx200inAR]

Someone might find this helpful.

I'm getting close to 100k so I recently put 11 identical parts in the following three online carts.
toytoaparts.lagrangetoyata.com
parts.olathetoyota.com
toyotapartsdeal.com

Lagrange (GA) was cheapest on all parts but not total shipped to Indiana cost. Parts $980 + shipping $189.49 = total $1169.84.
Olathe (KS) was Parts $1102.31 and $178.12 = $1280.43
Toyotapartsdeal (CA) was... Parts $1023.09 + shipping $53.99 + tax $71.62 = $1148.70

Have you attempted getting your local dealer to get the parts to avoid the shipping charges. I’m new at acquiring parts for my LX so genuinely interested. so far I have ordered parts from a Miami dealer, eBay, Amazon, partsouq, and my local Toyota dealer. I ordered AHC fluid at my local and he basically just asked me what prices I had seen online. I told him a price about 35% lower than the msrp he quoted me and without blinking an eye sold to me for my quoted online price without even verifying. Crazy to me there is so much leeway. Wonder how common that is.

 

[CharlieS]

Have you attempted getting your local dealer to get the parts to avoid the shipping charges. I’m new at acquiring parts for my LX so genuinely interested. so far I have ordered parts from a Miami dealer, eBay, Amazon, partsouq, and my local Toyota dealer. I ordered AHC fluid at my local and he basically just asked me what prices I had seen online. I told him a price about 35% lower than the msrp he quoted me and without blinking an eye sold to me for my quoted online price without even verifying. Crazy to me there is so much leeway. Wonder how common that is.

You are very lucky. My local dealer won't move from retail prices.

 

[bloc]

Wonder how common that is.

Not very, but it happens.

That is a relationship you should develop. Most likely if you can reduce his work by bringing him part numbers he’ll continue to give you great prices. Might even be worth asking flat out.

 

[CSMcruiser12]

New to me 2008 with only 60k miles. Don’t see any signs of the crack yet.

 

[04UZJ100]

New to me 2008 with only 60k miles. Don’t see any signs of the crack yet.

View attachment 2566460

Lower right hand corner of the extrusion. It’s there.

 

[40Man]

You are very lucky. My local dealer won't move from retail prices.

Check Costco. If you have a Costo dealer you get 15% off on parts.

 

[bloc]

New to me 2008 with only 60k miles. Don’t see any signs of the crack yet.

View attachment 2566460

Lower right hand corner of the extrusion. It’s there.

Agreed.

If @CSMcruiser12 cleans it up with a wet rag it'll be obvious. Really early though, should be good for a long while before leaking.

 

[CSMcruiser12]

Agreed.

If @CSMcruiser12 cleans it up with a wet rag it'll be obvious. Really early though, should be good for a long while before leaking.

Thanks guys, I will be keeping a close eye on it. Also makes sense why there is that yellow mark there. Probably from previous dealer service.

 

[ekolpack]

It really seems like a properly done JB Weld patch (surface cleaned, roughed up, maybe add fiberglass sheets, built up thick) would fix this problem, especially if it hasn't developed into a massive leak yet, or even if it has. I don't see why someone should spend that much money to fix it unless they are really worried about the aesthetics of JB Weld greeting them every time they open the hood.

 

[bloc]

I don't see why someone should spend that much money to fix it unless they are really worried about the aesthetics of JB Weld greeting them every time they open the hood.

because I don’t think anyone can argue that a patch on an already compromised radiator is truly as good as a new factory radiator, and some of us are willing to pay the $280 for that peace of mind.