2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (2 Viewers)

[Mogwai]

I've got 30k on mine since I noticed the hairline crack, hasn't really worstened so I've been lazy and have not done anything to it. I need to replace soon though, feel like I'm on borrowed time (121k/MY13').

 

[ontopofm]

Do you guys know the part numbers for these 2 bolts? They’re used to bolt the AT oil cooler tubes to the fan shroud. Mine are missing. Thanks

 

[ontopofm]

Do you guys know the part numbers for these 2 bolts? They’re used to bolt the AT oil cooler tubes to the fan shroud. Mine are missing. Thanks

View attachment 2377683

Working on replacing mine. My front end is missing a lot of screws, clips, and bolts. Found all the parts except these 2 bolts for oil cooler tubes to fan shroud. If anyone knows please help

 

[4literranger485]

went out to inspect my radiator for piece of mind and found what seems to be a very new unit! Pleasantly surprised in a 2008 w/108K on the clock

 

[CharlieS]

went out to inspect my radiator for piece of mind and found what seems to be a very new unit! Pleasantly surprised in a 2008 w/108K on the clockView attachment 2377873

May be very new, but it is the old style.

 

[4literranger485]

May be very new, but it is the old style.

thanks! any way to beef this crack prone area up to prolong life? Rig is new to me, but I tend to buy my vehicles and keep them for many years

 

[TeCKis300]

went out to inspect my radiator for piece of mind and found what seems to be a very new unit! Pleasantly surprised in a 2008 w/108K on the clockView attachment 2377873

I could be wrong, but from the pictures, it does seem stress risers are present. Not at the typical front location. But along the two sides.

Your mileage may vary, but one strategy to prolong the viability of the part is to proactively repair and support the stress risers via radiator specific patch kits.

 

[Supra88]

thanks! any way to beef this crack prone area up to prolong life? Rig is new to me, but I tend to buy my vehicles and keep them for many years

Find out if it's been replaced. If it hasn't, replace it. If it has, mean time to failure is around 100k miles, so I'd replace it after 75k miles just to be safe.

 

[bloc]

thanks! any way to beef this crack prone area up to prolong life? Rig is new to me, but I tend to buy my vehicles and keep them for many years

The issue with most of the methods to beef up the area is IF the crack still manages to grow you won’t know it’s happening... until it starts leaking.

 

[CRG]

another one bites the dust...saw a crack yesterday in the wife's 08 LC 200, this will be the second time Ive had to replace the damn thing. replaced the original a few years ago when i did the water pump, it also had a crack. i put some JD weld plastic bond on it just to see if it would hold, verdict is still out.
Sure

wish there was a way to use a Tundra radiator, the one in mine looks to be bullet proof and has been since 2008.

 

[bloc]

another one bites the dust...saw a crack yesterday in the wife's 08 LC 200, this will be the second time Ive had to replace the damn thing. replaced the original a few years ago when i did the water pump, it also had a crack. i put some JD weld plastic bond on it just to see if it would hold, verdict is still out.
Sure View attachment 2384375View attachment 2384376wish there was a way to use a Tundra radiator, the one in mine looks to be bullet proof and has been since 2008.

To be fair the new 200 radiator design does seem to address the single thing that keeps it from being absolutely bulletproof. Plus the tundra radiator is single row, ours are dual.

 

[Tripledave]

It may hold. I'm 6 months out from a patch and doing fine.

 

[bloc]

It may hold. I'm 6 months out from a patch and dong fine.

View attachment 2384945

That evidence of leakage would have me nervous.

 

[4literranger485]

related question: Previous owner got the water pump done in february at a local independent, coolant is just a little below the "L" on the reservoir so I was going to add some, but now that I've read a lot of coolant threads here I dunno if I should add Toyota super long life coolant or just distilled water since i cant really verify what coolant is in it?

 

[bloc]

related question: Previous owner got the water pump done in february at a local independent, coolant is just a little below the "L" on the reservoir so I was going to add some, but now that I've read a lot of coolant threads here I dunno if I should add Toyota super long life coolant or just distilled water since i cant really verify what coolant is in it?

For such a small amount distilled water is fine, and as you point out is guaranteed to be compatible with whatever is in there.

 

[Tripledave]

That evidence of leakage would have me nervous.

Under normal circumstances, I agree. I would be nervous if I actually drove anywhere these days. I haven't been a 10 minute drive from my garage where awaits not one, but two, new replacement radiators (long story) waiting to be installed at some point. It's just such a pain in the ass to do so I've been putting it off.

 

[hbomb9000]

My 2008 with 150k miles shows a tiny amount of fluid at the same location as noted in this thread.

I plan to replace it myself.

I like learning from how-to videos when possible. I couldn't really find much on YouTube. Have yall seen any good videos out there?

 

[bloc]

I plan to replace it myself.

I like learning from how-to videos when possible. I couldn't really find much on YouTube. Have yall seen any good videos out there?

I haven’t, but it’s actually really straightforward. I don’t agree with people leaving the brackets in place because you don’t use the fresh rubber mounts that come with the new unit, and getting to the driver’s side upper bolt is a little tough, being behind a plastic guard.
Also removing tension on the belt is easier from the bottom.
The lower bracket bolts are visible through the bottom grille opening.

Other than that it’s just unbolting all the things that are in the way until you can remove it.

 

[SteveP]

I haven’t, but it’s actually really straightforward. I don’t agree with people leaving the brackets in place because you don’t use the fresh rubber mounts that come with the new unit, and getting to the driver’s side upper bolt is a little tough, being behind a plastic guard.
Also removing tension on the belt is easier from the bottom.
The lower bracket bolts are visible through the bottom grille opening.

Other than that it’s just unbolting all the things that are in the way until you can remove it.

I replaced the radiator last month and I couldn't figure out how to remove the brackets unless I remove the bumper cover in order to access the bolts (4) from the front. removing the radiator alone and reuse the old bracket has another challenge, and that is removing the 10mm in the passenger side where the bracket attach to the radiator. The spacing is way way too tight to remove the bolt. so I end up finding it easier just to remove the bumper cover instead

 

[bloc]

I replaced the radiator last month and I couldn't figure out how to remove the brackets unless I remove the bumper cover in order to access the bolts (4) from the front. removing the radiator alone and reuse the old bracket has another challenge, and that is removing the 10mm in the passenger side where the bracket attach to the radiator. The spacing is way way too tight to remove the bolt. so I end up finding it easier just to remove the bumper cover instead

Is this an LX vs a LC? On my 13 LC the lower bracket bolts are visible clear as day from the front. I’ll get a picture when I get home.

But yes the 10mm bolt on the fan shroud is a challenge but it’s just a matter of finding the right combo of wrenches/sockets/extensions.